Gissin

ahh that's awesome man

I have no idea where you're getting your figures from but my Map is custom ( changes to AFR/ injection cycles / boost pressure) I know this was done because I saw it, this was also backed up by 7 dyno runs over the space of 3.5 hours this cost is nowhere near £1000+ infact it wasn't even half that. It might be worth being better informed before commenting. Tuning boxes have their place (for me that place is the bin) but each to their own and sometimes it might make sense. To the OP The point of the original post was about longevity really, if you want something reliable long term(not saying tuning boxes can't be) and getting the absolute best go for a remap, ideally one designed on the dyno for you from someone who knows what their doing with a solid reputation. Mines a different engine but running 230/450nm covering many thousand miles now and it's fine my MPG went up, it's a better car to drive and loads of fun.

your gain on 0-60 will be pretty non existent maybe 0.2s but then again if you were interested in 0-60 times you shouldn't have brought a 184 diesel. my 2 cents is if this is what you're interested in don't bother, however ignoring the 0-60 getting a proper remap can significantly improve the cars overall drivability making it smoother and easier to over take and quite possibly improve mpg just ensure you get a proper remap as in it's made for your engine preferably tuned using multiple dyno runs as opposed to a 15min ecu flash

yeah long motorway journeys help

over boost would typically be sticky vanes so worth a good clean (Mr muscle) especially at your mileage also so decent fuel/turbo cleaner might help (millers/wynns). this may resolve your issue for X mileage but will obviously not fix long term. £1000 would probably be the higher end of the figure this would be for a full replacement ..you can remove the turbo recondition it by replacing worn parts, this is typically cheaper. would be interesting to see what other codes you've got flagged up

you need to join the forum as a freedom/lite member it's either £10/£5 a year

the best running shoes I've tried for the last few years have been Adidas ultraboost (latest versions are 20) you can pick up some of the older models fairly cheap now which are still excellent and I still have these and use them. they are without a doubt the most comfortable shoes I own for running and everyday use, being fairly heavy ~17st I certainly appreciate the cushioning they provide.

yeah I would 100% change it then I try to do mine every 2 -3 years yeah there's aezibleed kit I used, it's fairly straight forward make sure you don't get any air in the ABS pump or you'll need vag com etc to correct. also don't get any on paintwork

I'm a fan of pagid, I have discs and pads all round and they stop the car well, not much dust and no noise. depending on when it was last changed I would consider replacing your brake fluid.

I would suggest having the battery tested or changed first. also its worth providing some more details: what engine is it how many miles does it run ok once started

you need vcds and to change the area to Australia

have you checked the fuse

not used that specifically but I'd do 25% (1:3) for summer use

don't by the Chinese crap ...+1 for the kenwood series as suggested by langers they're good and tick all the boxes you want / camera / sat nav etc. however I would say look at the later models like dnx525dab over the 521 the only reason I say this is the older models can have some delay which can be frustrating like 30s for start up and 15s for rear camera picture. for braking the stock brakes with decent quality pads and discs are more than capable of stopping these cards quickly I have pagid discs and pads and they're pretty good, most other cars I drive I always think the brakes are utter **** ( unless it's something good of course) you can always put 345mm discs and callipers from anR32 or Audi s3, the boxster S calliper upgrade (nqsbbk) is popular. Keeps the 312mm disc but adds 4 piston brembo calliper - as stated above you should be checking to ensure everything is functioning correctly first ..fluids changed etc. if you want to go stage 2 you'll be wanting to go turbo back exhaust and hi flow intake.. I would also be considering intercooler, throttle pipe and engine mounts

mileage is low really but it's certainly not unheard of. it's quite likely the environment that cars used in if you're doing a lot of low speed driving in high gears, constant gear changing, sitting on idle that kind of things have the potential to degrade a DMF quicker.

that sounds like a failing DMF (flywheel) what mileage are you on ?

I've had mine fitted for 3-4 years now with no issues. once their fitted hold the deflector out slightly whilst closing the window slowly to look for any areas that are catching and adjust if necessary once they're fitted and all windows are closed leave them closed for at least 48 hours - this will allow the window rubbers time to adjust to the new position.

yeah like for instance there's no steering controls, arm rest etc. although a lot of that can be retrofitted afterwards. yeah a tdi should be just fine then. with regards to the engines as long as they've been serviced regularly they should be fine my old Octavia had the original clutch and flywheel in at over 180,000 miles. The one you're looking at has only covered around 10K a year and depending on what roads / how it's been driven the DPF might be a little full. I'd personally take an Octavia over a rapid I find the build quality is a bit better.. but they're quite similar.

quite possibly then, have a look at the Mr Muscle posts following a scan

I wouldn't worry about the hatchback size over the estate unless you're planning on moving large bulky items around often, the boot on the hatch is pretty big. Engines as above petrol for shorter journeys and diesel for 10mile min (otherwise you're not warming them up properly) i think Ive seen the car you're looking at (grey one?) looks decent to me and I didn't think expensive, if anything its a good price looking at others in the same bracket - it is very basic though ..something to think about

what year and how many miles. hard acceleration followed by going into limp mode sounds like turbo overboost possibly sticky vanes. As the light has come on it will have stored a code - have you had it scanned?

look for the sticky at the top of this forum for chain tensioner if it's not been done I would highly recommend It. turbo can go early or last 200K it really depends on how it's been driven and looked after regular servicing and easy driving the parts can last ages i'm on 115,000 now with original turbo, clutch and DMF with no signs of fatigue. having a look at certain things like mot history/ what tyres are on the car/ keeping receipts etc. can give you an indication of how the cars been cared for. you could always post the car on here so people could have a look and advise better

could be turbo overboost from sticky vanes the light on your dash is the engine management if you plug a scanner in it'll tell you the code and then you can work out the fix from there.

what kind of journeys are you doing ? if you're doing lots of slow low miles you could be filling the DPF up so it has to regen more often to clear it. Over time DPF's eventually fill up and have to regen more often until they are full and then need to be replaced. also if the previous regen attempt was not successful it will keep trying

just to clarify this was full 4 wheel alignment with a print out. when did this wobble start .. after you fitted new shocks? was this all round or just one or two ? have you checked your RARB? I'd highly doubt you've bent your axle, if you'd hit something hard enough to do that, you'd certainly have known about it