SurreyJohn

Trying to answer in order 1) The 1.0 is generally adequate unless fully loaded 2) Extra equipment is nice, but if you keep your cars to 14 years, it could also be seen as more to potentially fail and need costly repairs. Of course if your current car doesn't have these, then unlikely to miss what you never have been used to. 3) Most people turn off start/stop as it causes a delay in pulling away. Not sure about the delay if S/S is off 4) If it had variable rear seats, were they forward or back (can move them and trade the legroom for boot space), from memory only move about 6cm but makes lot of difference to leg space. Worth checking position of seats. 5) Main advantage is you can insist on any recalls, and software updates being done as part of buying package, they can also print full service history for you to examine. There is a buyers warranty (but most good dealers include some warranty). Ultimately distance away, price and availability probably be more important. 6) Seat has fewer dealers, specs were different, (some things not there, but others that were not standard on Skoda are added) but basically same car. Can't comment on RAV4 but Toyota gives good warranty provided they service it, think it is lost if serviced by others.

Sounds like your car is set to fixed services, at 10k miles. 11k miles at last service, now 20k, has started counting down approaching 10k miles from previous service. Would get a full service done and ask them to change to variable. Check before you drive it away (on infotainment go into car, then settings, scroll to service and check the readings).

The glow plug light doesn't just indicate the glow plugs (it does this on start up). It also indicates other things, although you might not be aware unless you read relevant page of user manual. I am wondering if some of the working well comments above, should be more along lines of seemed to be working, but in reality was just about working but no one noticed it wasn't perfect. You bought it Feb 2022 when it had done 28k miles, if it is a 2018 car sounds like it had done about 7-8k miles per year, but we don't know if that was lots of town driving and only occasional runs to clear the DPF. There is high likelihood that it was part blocked when you bought it (but not enough that it was obvious). If not fully cleaned during a regen, a tar like substance will gradually build up. Appears you have done 5k miles, in 17 months (just under 3.5k miles per year). My fear is you might have damaged the DPF as cruising at 60mph in high gear isn't really going to get it hot enough (the air blowing past it will be cooling it) and sounds like didn't keep it in low enough gear to generate sufficient heat, really need good 20+ minutes at least 2500 revs. I suspect it was gradually clogging up, and the reduced clear passageway got too hot, and there was a fire inside the DPF. With DPF thus blocked sensor gave unusual reading and engine shut down. Sadly there is a risk when buying used, especially with euro6 diesels, because you don't know if the previous owners pattern of usage kept the DPF fully clear. After 17 months the seller has no liability so can't pursue them. I suppose if curious to find out, could send a stamped addressed envelope to previous owner on V5 asking for their typical pattern of driving due to early DPF, but again they have no liability. Sorry it won't help you, but if only doing 3.5k per year, should have bought the petrol version because of high risk of DPF failure. Something isn't adding up if bought it at 28k miles, now 33k miles, owned it 17 months and doing 100 miles a week, as that works out at only 68 miles per week.

A mobile fitter should be able to do it, and usually it is part of the fitting price (as it is enabling it to work properly). They just need to plug in a cheap laptop with relevant programs for couple of minutes. Might be sensible to check ahead of appointment if it is not mentioned. To some extent not doing it would be on a par with a mobile tyre fitter changing tyres and then not putting air in them. Shouldn't happen because fitted is deemed to make it usable and operational.

There is now an EfficientGrip performance 2 But there has been a trend of making summer tyres more summer like (no advantage in almost overlapping with manufacturers new all season range), and will usually find the newer spec summer tyres can be poor in colder rain below +10c (and for much of UK rain is cold for 8+ months of the year) I would strongly suggest getting all season tyres nowadays. Goodyear have vector 4season Gen 3. But also look at brand new Continental all season contact 2 (might not be available yet). Have also heard good things regarding Falken AS210.

Looks like just changing the lights, and reads like some equipment will be available from more expensive cars (which presumably will make it cost more), then getting some other differences like different alloy wheels. To be honest, would prefer a replacement for unreliable MIB 3 than minor tweaks if I was going to buy one. I might be seen as an oddball, but I prefer my cars to work reliably ahead of shape of lights.

The towing eye comes with the car, it is in the polystyrene along with the jack in the wheel wheel. Should be there unless someone used it and forgot to put it back.

There are 4 prices for winter plus pack : £440, £765, depending on spec adding them to, and 2 cheaper versions (£155, £485) if getting 1.0 tsi (as don't then get heated windscreen)

I am wondering if you have done a deferred deposit loan, basically your part exchange didn't provide enough free cash after clearing any outstanding finance on that to cover the deposit. So they have added the missing deposit to tail end of the loan. You need to look at the copy of the loan agreement page you signed, I suspect you are not being charged £4k 'interest', but lot of it is something else which hasn't yet been paid. My hunch is you don't have a PCP, but they have done you a special HP type loan, with a negative deposit added to loaned amount, thus increasing the outstanding.

The UK update (issued about 3rd July) changed timing belt (cambelt) interval to 210,000km (130,000 miles), consistent with most of Europe. However it is now supposed to be checked at major services (ie every 18k miles or 2 years) for wear, and if showing signs of wear an appropriate advisory given. There is no set time interval, although suggestions of 10-15 years seem to be doing the rounds, so I would suggest budgeting for it after sometime after 9th year

The engine must be running message is usually because cabin temperature sensor requires the air conditioning Does you car have the grey bar which pops up at top of the screen with a short message. If so it can be dragged down and usually gives more details.

As soon as you can put highest grade you can in to top it up Then do it again when got about quarter to third of tank available. Keep using the high grade until you have added about double the volume of low grade as it will dilute it. One partial tank full won't really be a problem

The SE Tech spec is excluded, SE Drive spec is one of 3 normal specs https://finance.skoda-auto.com/210/en-gb/ https://www.skoda.co.uk/_doc/c63f4efb-a760-4a48-931f-baad88d42aa6

New switch required. Tell him you pull it out (in 2 steps) to get fog lights on, not follow Mr Break-It on tic toc (or was he following Mr we sell replacement switches)

If you use the finance calculator, T&Cs says ordered by 31/7/23 But is it a false offer, using the calculator for SEdrive spec, 48 months, basically a default calc gives : Cash price £ 27,470 Amount payable £ 31,640 so even though they give you a £2500 contribution, still costs £4170 to do the PCP (would be £6670 without a contribution). Give with one hand, taketh rather more with the other hand.

Week 40 is 2-8 October I would allow 1-2 weeks at dock, week for ship, week to dealers, week for PDI and preparation. Roughly 5 weeks after build So realistically with you mid November. But might vary by week or two either way.

The basic rule at lease return is car has to be serviced, and service indicator not showing as due now. It is ok to be showing a countdown warning due in X miles or Y days (I think Skoda usually show countdown from about 700 miles or 30 days). Therefore if you have it on variable, only do about 17,500 miles and hand it back few days short of 2 years, might not need to do any servicing whatsoever. So if think that is a good possibility then don't waste money pre-paying for service might not do. One other thing worth remembering is often good idea to swap the wheels front-back at around 12-13k miles. Evens out the tyre wear and usually means won't have any cost of replacing 2 worn tyres. Might not need it if only doing 17k miles, but definitely swap them if going to be say 25k miles. Even if you pay fast fit centre few pounds to do it, lot cheaper than 2 new tyres.

What does the other end of the charge lead plug into, guess what a non Skoda charger Unless the cable is physically faulty, eg connecting pins wired incorrectly, or it shorting out, then this is just fishing for excuses.

It's a rip off, it is not like they will sanitise filter packs to prevent legionaries because not in a location where doors and windows don't open. You won't gain anything by having it done compared to yourself turning temperature to max for a minute, and min for a minute to exercise system. Unless they confirm you will get a receipt with a before and after refrigerant concentration proving it's been hooked up and tested then decline. A cursory AC 'service' is about as useful as replacing the air in your tyres with fresh air. Waste of your money, and easy money for them as can't check it was done.

A number of options can be turned on or off in the car settings on the screen (provided they are fitted) so what is displayed depends on this About 3 years ago they moved from navigation maps on memory to online, but the new scheme only comes with trial period of a year and then needs an expensive annual subscription (which is called Skoda connect). So most people just plug their phone in and use google maps or Waze. I haven't used AA maps but probably similar although I don't know if it reroutes you around live delays like other two Here is link to the brochure, look in the options with prices tables to see if features are included on version you want or cost more. https://www.skoda.co.uk/_doc/775d73bc-eb9d-4a50-911e-863d73b99333

I am baffled by this thread, DRLs are daytime running lights fitted at front so that oncoming traffic and pedestrians can spot you approaching Why would you want rear lights as DRLs unless you want to permanently drive in reverse. Surely if just want lights on, then turn side lights on. and white reverse lights already come on when select reverse.

@Ozzy25 the correct action is not to ask for an extended warranty, but to tell them the reoccurring faults need to be fixed properly under the existing 3 year warranty. There is no point in having an extension if they just continue not to fix faults when a warranty exists. It might be the car has fundamental faults that cannot be fixed, in which case you should be discussing along lines of if they can't fix it, they need to replace it with one that works (at their expense, not yours), and take it from there. If they are a franchised dealer, they will have a commercial contract with Skoda, and how they get reimbursed under that is not your problem, and your remedy is not conditional on dealer getting paid by Skoda for warranty work, even though they might pretend they need Skoda agreement. They don't as your contracts are not linked, and yours is under consumer law, theirs is commercial. If they really waste your time saying thy need to check with Skoda first, ask them to show you their clause in their commercial contract which says that (they won't want you to see it, and clause won't be there anyway as it will be bluff).

Skoda UK gives the following information in additional information section towards the end of the brochure (brochure is available online, as per link) Service intervals When you order your OCTAVIA, you can choose whether your car is on a fixed or a flexible service regime. Your ŠKODA retailer will help you decide which regime suits how your car will be driven, enabling your car to stay in the best possible shape. Fixed regime: service every 10,000 miles or one year (whichever comes first). This is recommended if the vehicle is likely to be used in the following way: > Driven fewer than 10,000 miles per annum. > Mainly short journeys, driven mostly in towns or cities. > High vehicle loading/towing and frequent hill climbs. > Heavy accelerating and braking, using high revs. Flexible regime: Sensors in the engine detect when a service is needed. A service light will show between 9,000 and 20,000 miles or up to 24 months (whichever comes first). The flexible service regime is recommended for vehicles with a daily mileage of more than 25 miles where the vehicle is driven regularly and mainly at a constant speed with minimum vehicle and engine loading, minimal towing and driven in an economical manner https://www.skoda.co.uk/_doc/0bcfc2d5-654f-49b2-a524-91e141293e36 Note the first bit, the customer gets to choose, not some technician doing the PDI makes a random decision and sets car up that way. So if that is what what happened, complain to supplying dealer, pointing out what they did caused false advertising, and you want remedy. (its always good to use legal term remedy as it implies you are expecting something to compensate you). The reality is only when enough people complain and hit their profit will they improve and do what brochure says. If you do mainly town driving, or under 10,000 miles a year and they told you only needs a service when car says so, they are also incompetant and wrong.

Had a 2006 Octavia L&K spec with 2 litre FSI and auto, beautiful car, part exchanged it though because annual car tax was changed and it's 201 CO2 was being hammered about 10 years ago. You need to be very wary of a 12 year old car with 4x4 because many will look good, but the mechanicals might have had skimped servicing. You could end up with some big repair bills if lots of parts are heavily worn. If live on the hills around Sheffield might be better buying set of winter tyres than trying to source a very limited number of 4x4 spec cars, as choice will be much wider.

A lot of how cars handle is in the tyres you choose. Put a set of summer tyres on and it will grip poorly and be skittish in wet in colder months, and be almost undriveable during rare snowy days. Instead get a set of premium all season tyres and it will feel secure even on frosty mornings. If some dealer says they will fit new tyres, then don't let them choose, they will probably fit wear quick budget tyres because they will have your money by time you realise they are useless on a cold wet day and they wear quickly.