SurreyJohn

If you have electric parking brake, you either need a special wind back tool for the handbrake, or you need to have access to coding that allows it to be electrically wound back in. The callipers need to retract to get new thicker pads in. I doubt if a Kodiaq is old enough, but on some older models discs can be rusted and fused, so devil to get old one off.

What tyre make, description, and size have you got? Easier to advise if know what you have to compare against. New cars come with summer tyres, the noise level will vary with temperature, but as a general rule as weather gets colder, tyres get harder, and can rumble more (and they don’t grip as well either). Summer tyres usually poor in wet below about +10c, although nearer +4c in dry. Useless in frost, sleet and snow. Not great idea to be doing 70mph on a damp salted motorway at -3c with tyres that barely grip so don’t try using summer tyres all year. I suspect vRS has been fitted with sport tyres, not touring tyres, and as their name suggests they are more about sharp handling than comfort. Changing to 18 (or 17 inch) inch rims and deeper sidewall tyres should improve comfort. Taking a bit of a punt here, but an all year tyre that seems to be coming out as quiet in recent tests is Pirelli Cinturato all season SF2. But it is only few months old so not that many comparison tests with it.

I think, (and it’s guessing from video) is not a gear, but a loose rotating part, possibly part of Flywheel. But might be a bearing that is disintegrating. It is not normal, and has to be manufacturing fault as these parts should not fall apart after 7200km (about 4500 miles)

Continental winter contact TS870 and Bridgestone blizzard LM005 both seem to be doing well in tests https://www.tyrereviews.com/Article/2021-Winter-Market-Overview-Test.htm https://www.tyrereviews.com/Article/2021-AMS-Winter-Tyre-Test.htm

I am not sure by Scoutify, if you mean stick bits of plastic on lower panels for a rugged look, an underbody kit, protection pack (mats for carpets, boot liners etc against mud) or you mean give it rugged wheels. Can’t help on plastic guards, the protection pack is available from accessories list, and the tyres would be better with something with a meaty tread like Michelin Cross climate 2

Second half of October or early November At moment temperatures (near me) tend to be 4-9c at night, 12-16c day I tend to think the winter tyres are better in wet below about +10c (it’s nearer +4c in dry) and Autumn is generally wet I tend to use Metcheck, 16 day as my guide, the wind direction affects the detail, but when temperature prediction generally staying under 15c then I feel happy it is time to change https://www.metcheck.com/WEATHER/16days.asp?zipcode=SN13&locationID=60412&lat=51.4&lon=-2.2

The Karoq has a squared off wheel arch, so you will never be able to fill the arch, unless you replace the round wheels with square wheels 🥴

If you read the handbook (not everyone does), it actually says can top up with other oil specs in small quantities. @Billywizzo If it is due oil change in few weeks, and you are only adding about 100ml you won’t do any harm adding bit of 5w40, leaving oil level low is lot worse. You can get top up bottles (500ml or 1 litre) in most fuel company petrol stations, many homeware stores, some DIY stores and even some big supermarkets. Just look for Synthetic oil, 0w20. On the back it might list Volkswagen group VW508 (for petrol), or VW509 (for diesels)

Tyre reviews has published a winter tyre comparison test https://www.tyrereviews.com/Article/2021-Tyre-Review-Winter-Tyre-Test.htm

Almost identical for our roomster, front pads changed near 9th birthday at 44k miles. Rear pads originals, all discs originals. So if anyone needs pad changing, try and find someone with old stock, as pads made 9 years ago seem to last longer.

Phone them back and ask them for the pad measurements, then when they go erm…. ask them if they measured them or just eyeballed them Them ask what the Skoda manual says minimum depth is, or does the manual say give it a quick look and not to measure them. Then politely suggest if it is a £700 job, you would have researched this and have the data at your fingertips to explain the cost. Then (and only if work is actually required) go to an Independent and pay about £300 for new discs and pads. I was once told by a dealer my front pads on a 2 year old car were 80% worn and need changing now, a year later a different dealer said 60% worn, and need changing in 6-9 months, so somehow the pads grew by 20% in third year, or someone blatantly lied !

I have a 1 litre DSG in my Seat, and S7 does come up, but need to be cruising and doing at least 63mph. My guess it it is programmed for over 100km/h I think the gear display shows : P, R, N D1-D7, S1-S7, E1-E7, M1-M7 and up and down arrows in M mode. I have a vague memory that also shows E when coasting in economy mode (but I haven’t used E for about 2 years, as need to manually press mode button each time, and doesn’t gain much)

My thoughts are either fuel filter is part blocked, or fuel tank vent problem (so getting a vacuum in tank on the incline, restricting fuel flow) The second one is easy to check, just open fuel filler when you have the problem, if there is air hissing sound and problem is fixed, then tank vent needs fixing. But I suspect it needs a new fuel filter

Tyre Reviews 2021 comparison is now published https://www.tyrereviews.com/Article/2021-Tyre-Reviews-All-Season-Tyre-Test.htm

If you have a 2017 car, the tyre sealant (can of gunk, not seal inside tyres) will probably be beyond its use by date, of course it might still work, but a dark night miles from anywhere is not when you want to be forced to see if it still works. If got to buy new can of gunk, half way to buying a space saver wheel in cash outlay anyway. But you will need a jack and wheel removal tools.

The Pirelli Scorpion Verde are a SUV touring summer tyre, but confusingly can also get Scorpion Verde all season (will say SF or have the 3 peak mountain with snowflake symbol) The Toyo Proxes is a sports tyre, so you actually have a mix of tyre styles (touring and sport) which wasn’t the greatest decision by whoever did it. The Pirelli might be seal inside (you need to read full markings, if it doesn’t say so then isn’t), the Toyo won’t be. A good way to check if tyre is original is to read 4 digit date code (2 digit week number, 2 digit year), likely to be 3-6 months before registration, or 1-4 months before car build date.

I would suggest you use stronger concentration for top off, so the quantity including the plain water is about correct concentration. Then check it in few days time, to see if level has gone down (might be airlock, but might be leaking), if keeps going down then leaking.

If it is a potential purchase, I would also worry about the reliability of the climate control and air conditioning. It isn’t normal to have both sides set to Lo temperature when it’s only 15.5c outside. Kind of suggests struggles to keep car cool.

To cover yourself, you should consider rejecting the car and advising the dealer that if the faults are not fixed you will reject. The rules are in plenty of other threads, but basically if you list all the faults, they need to fix them all, (not just fix some, or only get something partly working), at first attempt, they don’t get multiple chances to fix, and if when you go to collect the repaired car, if any listed fault is still not 100% sorted, you can reject and not accept it back, for refund. No need to wait for them to discuss with Skoda, that’s not your problem and not a reason to delay instant refund.

If a service was due in next few weeks after purchasing, then reasonable to expect it. If it was due 8 months after sale, then might have only been done 4 months before so no (but should still have had a visual inspection). I suspect had it been done, the purchase price would have gone up by say £100 so you haven’t really lost out. However it would now be completely reasonable to pop into a dealer, explain you bought it 8 months ago, and could they print a copy of full service history as you want to know what might be due. This is one of the disadvantages of electronic service records, if seller doesn’t provide a printout, you are in dark as to what has / hasn’t been done, and what is due when.

The projector type headlights use H7 Take a look at this thread, you need to avoid trying to grip and turn the fixed metal hooks when taking the bulbs out to change them

The Continental TS860 winter tyre in picture in second example, has been replaced by newer TS870 in size 205/60 R16, so anyone ordering should check the specs. There is still a TS860 S (the high performance sport version) made in that size

Doing an aircon service is a very profitable add on for a dealer, it is unlikely to need doing after a mere 24 months. If it was me I would decline. If it needs work done much better off at an a/c specialist as dealers charge fortune. There are many people on here who have never let anyone touch it, and it is still working fine after 8+ years. It is one of those things that the old saying if it isn’t broken, don’t fix it applies. Because as soon as you start fiddling things seem to go wrong.

To put the UK prices into perspective, these are the from prices in Germany Easy spec from eur 13,990 = £ 11,964 Active spec from eur 15,590 = £ 13,332 Ambition spec from eur £16,890 = £ 14,444 Style spec from eur 19,590 = £ 16,752 Whilst UK specs do not match exactly, the 4 UK grades are S spec from £ 14,905 which is 1.24 times base spec German price SE comfort spec from £ 16,795 which is 1.26 times German price colour edition spec from £ 17,495 which is 1.21 times German price SE L spec from £ 18,980 which is 1.13 times top spec German price Quite a price penalty in the UK https://cc.skoda-auto.com/deu/de-DE/trimline-scenic?_ga=2.217199957.293514760.1631651615-7a76cba9-62db-4a8a-812f-86b2463a9c78&activePage=trimlines&color=2X1Z&configurationId=&extraEquipments=GWC1WC1|GPX8PX8&id=DEU%3Bskoda%3B2022%3BPJ34F4%3B1%3BGYOQYOQ%3Bmda20210913074939%3Bde-DE%3B%3B60004%3B60004&interior=NL&modelcode=PJ&modifiedPages=&salesprogram=DEU&snapshotVersion=65b565b0-8f5b-41be-9547-7cdf726f329a&trimline=PJ4|Style6000460004&type=Car configurator&visitedPages=

The other problem with this, is if you intend to cram the boot full, you won’t be able to reach the spare unless you unload everything. So maybe it is easier to put the spare and jack on the passenger floor, or slot it around your big item on these occasions