SurreyJohn

If you want it as a family car, not high performance, but safe in wet, then you probably should be looking at all-season tyres rather than summer tyres. Since all seasons were introduced, summer tyres seem to have become optimised for warmer temperatures and consequently are often poor in rain below about +9 or +10c (it’s nearer +4c in dry). Some become very poor as temperature nears freezing point (and frosty mornings are not uncommon in winter even near South coast) Summer spec tyres struggle in colder months (and UK rain is not warm and tropical, it is fairly cold). So be wary of results and reviews obtained in warmer months. Of course if you catch a sleety or snow shower you want something that will get you home and not leave you stranded at first incline, so another reason to go all-season. If you do want to stay summer tyres, rainsports are good. Bridgestone now make T007 Turanza (Potenza are sporty so not what you have asked for). The Dunlop Sport are again performance/sporty (clue is in name) rather than a touring tyre 235/40 R19 is not a cheap tyre size But if you do want all season, then look at Continental all season contact, Vredestein Quatrac Pro, Hankook kinergy 4S2, Bridgestone weather control A005 evo. There are also couple of new ones now available (no reviews yet) Michelin cross climate 2 or Pirelli all season SF2. .

Firstly I didn’t say it’s not normal to top up with some oil, but I said putting it in at a rate equivalent to half litre every 1400 miles is not normal (which is roughly a sump full between a 10k service interval) As far as I’m aware Skoda still issued service books with new cars in 2012, our 2012 Skoda has one, I think they went electronic from about 2016. The 2 main dealers I have used in last 2 years still tick the boxes in service book and stamp it, none have volunteered to copy over all the book entries to an electronic version. Why do you think a 2012 car has electronic records?

I am not sure what mileage your car has, but if it using a litre every 2700 miles then something is either very worn or leaking, most tsi engines use less than half litre every 10k miles so you are using oil at least 7 times common rate. Potentially a solution is to use a thicker oil, rather than a multi grade that has very light elements in it, and that may lower oil consumption. But this will only be a partial solution and won’t fix what is already worn, and could cause faster wear. @Manxmotorman It would be interesting to know what mileage each oil change was done at, these should be on the pages of the service book. It might give a clue to current oil consumption.

Lots of questions, here is my stab at answers. Its only 10mm lower with DCC DCC is variable dampers, not suspension (springs) All cars now revert to normal setting when started The rear axle depends on the engine, the 1.5 has simpler system than vRS If you really want very sporty suspension then really you want the Cupra Leon, as Octavias are set up for family comfort.

Rather depends on spec and options on your existing car as to what you might not get. And it seems for many the mk4 means regular visits to a dealer for updates. Just for fun my first Octavia estate didn’t have a/c (it was S-reg) GLX spec Next one did Y-reg L&K spec but also had full leather seats, and a boot mounted 6 CD changer (still took cassettes in front). It also had a full size spare which was identical alloy and tyre. This also had a 20 valve engine Third Octavia Estate was a mk2 (06-reg) L&K, this had dual climate and electric opening sunroof, it was last one we had which came with a cigarette lighter. It had gone down to a 16 valve engine (2 litre FSI) By now probably getting the idea, nowadays won’t get many of the things I have listed, or even a service book for stamping, but will get other features, some of which you may never use.

I’m rather sceptical about anyone that says it increases miles per gallon. Remapping doesn’t change mass of vehicle or aerodynamics (drag coefficient) so basically being told can use less fuel energy to achieve same amount of momentum. Rather defies basic laws of physics. Maybe it can improve combustion within the cylinders, but if it was that easy to make an improvement in efficiency, why would the manufacturer not do it.

If your trailer weighs 245kg and expect to carry 1000kg then I’m basing it on 1245kg For 2 wheels 622.5kg each, but need to add weight of wheel and allow bit of uneven loading (so more weight on one side). Realistically therefore need a load rating of at least 700kg 95 is 690kg 96 is 710kg You can buy XL (extra load) tyres and go up about 8-10% but if I have misunderstood and max load per wheel is 500kg then load rating is only 84, but again allowing for uneven loading would be aiming for load rating of at least 91. I suspect your load will determine minimum wheel size.

Have been told (but not checked) Bosch is A864S for twin pack front and A331H for rear (which is same as on my Seat Arona) The 65cm (26 inch) is AP26U, and 45cm (18 inch) is AP18U if bought separately

It varies, depends on how vigorously you drive, and the quality of the tarmac. If you drive on the polymer tarmac on newer surfaced motorways and main roads (and your wheels are properly aligned and inflated) then can get 50,000+ miles out of some premium tyres. But there are some drivers who will struggle to get 10,000 miles out of some tyres.

I ran a 2014 S Spec for a while (one of the last mk2 Fabia) and that didn’t have much in instrumentation, for temperature think there was just a blue light for when engine was cold (and probably a red one for hot, but that never came on) The rocker switch on end of indicator stalk didn’t exist either so couldn’t call up different displays like the mid and higher spec versions. S spec was always basic (but it did have advantage, rather less to fail or breakdown)

I fear you may have been sold a bad plan if it was 2 years, and you need to have the servicing done within the 2 years. £16.50 x 24 months is £396 If it is on variable then the oil service (inspection) is usually within few weeks of the major service, so most people just get the service done and both reset (as the small one is a subset, so is covered anyway). A service at end of year 2 will be rather less than £396. Hopefully your plan covers a second service (which would be at end of year 3 when MOT is due (get MOT and any remaining warranty work done in 36th month, before both expire) the MOT will be forwarded dated, and will need to be done to tax it again. Unless your mileage significantly increases both will reach the time (399 days remaining) at same time.

That’s very fast, at dealer next week if built 9th August Normally it is 1-2 days by train to Emden, then awaiting a ship (few days, sometimes 3-4 weeks), then 3-7 days depending on disport (Sheerness, Humber or Tyne), then upto fortnight for Road transporter (tend to wait for full load, or at least a split load with another dealer in area) But possibly so few cars coming through, there is not much awaiting space.

It is basically a solution to limit damage for those that expect to crash, or more specifically collide with kerbs. There are number of disadvantages, cost, ugly looks etc. It is debatable if it is a prettier solution than choosing smaller diameter rims and not scratching them.

ACC will regulate the speed to maintain spacing to vehicle in front, and the DSG gearbox will pick an appropriate gear for speed, but ACC doesn’t directly control the gearbox. You can reset the oil inspection once, using a sequence (other threads have this), but need to plug in a computer to reset fully. Don’t think mk3 Fabia ever had Lane assist (but not totally sure)

Your have a choice of plastic or metal I fitting a Stainless Steel one from Tuning-Art on another vehicle and very pleased with it https://www.tuning-art.com/en/load-edge-protection/for-skoda/stainless-steel-load-edge-protection-for-skoda-fabia-mk-3-iii-estate-from-10-2014/a-9998

Temperature of 21c (as per dashboard pic) is close to the optimum Much colder and will use more fuel Much warmer and climate control will need to work hard to cool the cabin Averaging 46mph is clearly going to help, fast enough for top gear, but not so fast that aerodynamic drag increases fuel consumption.

Skoda have been reducing colour choice, now just 9 colours on Octavia (and 2 of those not available on vRS), but there is a green called hyper green

Both have been superseded by newer versions Vredestein now makes the Quatrac Pro (lower profile tyres for higher performance cars, and Quatrac (no number, but effectively a Quatrac 6) Bridgestone A005 has a newer version, A005 evo

Locks do sometimes stick, if you are very lucky you can sometimes free them by sticking the tiny tube on top of WD40 cans down the window rubber. If not, then it is usually new lock motor required

Should be able to sleep just as well with windows half open and engine off. You don’t have to ruin the environment for her. How about carrying her to her bed and settling her down, what are you some lazy parent that doesn’t like settling your own child down. And as a parent (daughter now 19), you have to do those tough weeks of settling at some stage, and will be lot longer and harder if you leave it until they are older.

Had similar problem on rear window on another Skoda, wiper juddering and noisy, changed to a Bosch rear wiper blade and problem instantly fixed. So another vote for Bosch wipers

Looks like a scaled down Kia Niro Is this the Skoda version of proposed VW ID2 ?

Keep it simple if you are spending £2k If it doesn’t have loads of gizmos and motorised features there is a lot less to go wrong and fail (which are not cheap to repair/replace) However probably looking at a car 10-13 years old at that price, so it’s condition, and how well serviced are relevant. Almost anything could need work from tyres, brake pads, cam belt etc so more a case of forecasting upcoming work than which engine is ideal. I would try and find a S spec Fabia

There are others in 205/45 R16 including Maxxis AP3, Kumho HA31, Imperial all season driver, and few others I’ve not heard of Never tried any so can’t comment on if they are ok

Why have a no date, when they could simply have a later date like 28th February. Surely their software can manage dates beyond 31st December (why invent millennium bug 2) And why pick a working Friday, or better still why not be real with estimated dates. Similar thing in Octavia forum, but at least some people have 35 week indications (March 2022), so why can’t the Enyaq be given realistic date as well, instead of a pointless date. If you are spending £30-40k then a dealer who cannot be bothered to spend couple of minutes enquiring about latest date really doesn’t deserve your business in my view.