JGrindel

With airbag lights its hard to guess so you will need it scanning and that will tell you what is wrong. I would take it back to the garage.

It can be a little fiddly, the screen is that... a screen. The radio itself is located behind the dash and is located inside the glovebox so you will need to remove that if you need to remove the whole unit. Try the keys in different ways and it should release the locks. it doesn't pop out so you will need to lever it out. Removing the boot handle you need to firstly remove the boot pull using the a torx screwdriver, then you use a trim removal tool to remove the plastic boot skin, then you just need to pop out the handle / switch.

Please excuse my confusion, are you saying that the alarm is always going off regardless when the seat is empty and occupied or is it now showing the seatbelt being plugged in or the warning beep going off when in motion and the passenger hasn't putt heir seatbelt on? Apart from me being confused I always say for seat issues check the physical plugs under the seat as you may find the connection from the seat to the car has been disturbed? - They can sometimes disconnect from racking the seat back and forth over time.

I have wired about 4 reversing camera signal wires to the rear light cluster reversing light. Obviously power and ground have been wired to fuse box and boot ground. No issues at all.

I don't do the miles you do BUT I do own the 1.2tsi (similar engine just one less piston) and I do 14k a year (mainly motorway) its been absolutely fine for the time I have owned. I have also not seen or heard of any failures of any of the 1.2 or 1.0 engines in the time they have been around via here, and the fabia facebook groups. Keep up with oil servicing ie every 8-10k and not the 20k most car manufacturers are advising today and using good quality fuel (E5 premium) will yield better performance and economy. These little 1.0 engines have been used in Skoda's SUV early on. Might be worth asking on the Mk3 Skoda Fabia Owners UK on Facebook this same question and you might get a better response perhaps.

I always thought and have seen evidence of the TSI engines having quite a considerable carbon build up on the back of the intake valves after even 10k miles. - So driving the car HARD and revving it out creates more airflow over the valves helping to a certain degree in reducing the build up of carbon build up. From what I have read online the modern direct injection engines have a high nox level at ignition so circumvent some of the gases back into the intake which intern creates the carbon build up... also because of the direct injection the fuel and air mix doesnt clean the back of the valve like they used to on older intake injection engines. Here is a great video from Aaron from TheHumbleMechanic showing the build up on his Golf R. (Same direct injection used on all TSI modern VAG engines) - WATCH HERE Most garages now can do walnut blasting to remove the carbon build up on the back of the valves, AwesomeGTI and other specialists will do this but it comes at a price because of the labour (£500+ sometimes) Valvoline did a good article on what carbon build up is. Truth behind carbon build up - https://team.valvoline.com/diy/truth-behind-carbon-buildup EDIT But dont take this whole thread saying the tsi 1.0 engine is unreliable! IT IS NOT and is a very good engine, the carbon build up effects lots of modern cars not only VAG due to direct injection being the favoured injection to meet emissions.

THIS!! I always change the sump plug and washer... its a small cost and yes not very eco friendly but at least you know its sealed properly. Nothing worse than a ill-fitting crush washer and it leaking.

@HyperionIts easy to switch off the airbag light or read the module to see exactly what has caused the fault light to appear. I can assist you with that as I have OBD11 and I am in Chichester and offer coding, you also have @mushtafain Bognor Regis (VCDS) and your local guy in Brighton is @paulskiHEX-V2 VCDS, If you do go to get it coded by someone with VCDS or OBD11, you might want to check out my post on the coding options for the mk3 fabia, a few little tweaks that can help. Ie Hill Hold Assist activation. - But before you do anything try the good old trick of disconnecting the battery, and leave the car for 10-15 minutes before plugging in again. Probably wont work but worth a try. Used to work on older cars but not so much on modern ones which more complex computers.

Double check that an exhaust shop cant fix the pipe, its common for the flexi to fail on these and its easily replaced by a reputable garage (exhaust specialists)

There is so much conflicting information on the 1.6tdi dpf due to so many different vehicles using the engine...

Due to the pressure sensors places before and after the DPF which then get sent to the DPF pressure difference sensor in the engine bay. Mine had both before and after but the 2014 replacement only had before, hence the garage welding the aft sensor onto the replacement. The problem with the 1.6tdi engines is the DPF was too far away from the engine itself and struggled to get up to temp and they tend to clog easily. @AMD87also advised me the DPF was the second box.

They are one piece, the cat is the portion that connecters to the turbo and the DPF is the large box at the bottom past the flexi. There are slight variations between 2010-14 on the 1.6tdi. Do you know if your dpf has 1 or 2 pressure sensor pipes? My 2010 dpf had one vs the used replacement i got which was from a 2014 fab had only one sensor pipe. (on the photos of the exhaust on the pathway you can see where the garage cut out the post sensor pipe off my old dpf to weld onto the newer one. Is there a reason you need a new one is the cat failed or is there a problem with the exhaust piping? A new part will set you back over £750+ VAT I have attached a few photos of my old and replacement so you can see what to look for

It is really easy to replace the buttons. 1. Disconnect battery 2. unclip airbag 3. remove airbag 4. unplug buttons 5. remove and replace reverse to refit.

Your unit is the Bolero unit and therefore Skodas update server on their website wont work for is as thats for the Amundsen Nav. However here is a thread for updating the Bolero unit here

Nope. Just one. There is no SINGLE jack point to lift both front wheels.

You would need to add wiring and replace the airbag loom within the wheel as that contains the buttons plug. I did this on my Mk2. Wiring from clock spring to light switch body control module and a new airbag loom. Secondly you would need to code the car to know it has mfsw buttons added. @Eddie-NL is the guy to ask.

LED and HID are MOT fails now.

Are the songs stored directly on the phone itself or are you using spotify/apple music to stream? It could be down to your phone not having signal. I have this sometimes. Secondly is your phone up to date? Does it happen using a different phone?

Firstly double check your iPhone software version, is it too low? Does it need an update? Are you using genuine iphone cables with certified MFI stamp? Does it work with a different phone or even android device? If all else fails I would take it back to Arnold Clark, you have 14 days cool off period to refuse the car I am sure and they will be able to solve the issue if not return the car. https://www.arnoldclark.com/aftercare-car-warranty

@langers2kis good with VC. He might be able to assist.

Using an iphone or android device, plug the device into the cars usb socket using your phones charging cable. You might be prompted to activate / accept the connection via your phone. Once this has been done you should see a phone type screen appear onto your cars infotainment system. From there you will be able to open your devices maps app. Google Maps, IOS Maps, etc. BUT this will use your phones data to work so might need to double check your phones contract. The phones maps are live updated so you wont need to keep updating the maps year on year and its free too, they will also show you traffic and divert you around roadworks and issues. Traditional satnavs are a dying technology as they cant compete with modern smart phone devices. Here are a few links for you to read that might help get you connected. Each video is for individual devices.

Removing rear seats is easy. The lower bench on the hatch comes out in one just pull from the front corners and it will unclip. The isofix clips might come loose but just clip back on easily. The rear 40/60 bench is removed by unscrewing the retaining clip at the split point accessed by the boot. Then releasing the outer clips using a flat head to rotate the locking mech. http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy127/SC16v/seats/8.jpg http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy127/SC16v/seats/9.jpg Photo source from mk2 guide as the locking mech is the same.

Welcome to the group!! Nice little write up and glad you found my posts helpful

@wirer has completed a black headliner dying. Remember its more than just the headliner but, sunvisors, handles, interior lights, A, B and C pillars will also need to be changed for black. He has a guide here - https://wirer.sk/f3_cierna-stropnica/

Any wrapping company / signwriting company will be able to replace the vinyl / remove it for much less than skoda will charge.