SuperbTWM

What did the oil look like that came out of the Haldex and the diff? Has the haldex and diff had previous maintenance?

Depends on the sort of failure I would guess. I had an AWX engine in a B5.5 Passat and that DMF had locked up and the vibration was felt at idle in the cabin most noticeably but moving also until at higher speeds where the vibration blended in with normal road vibrations. It really was very annoying. If it’s just the gearstick that is vibrating and there are no other vibrations felt in the cabin it might just be worn out bushes or bushings in the gearstick or linkages causing the gearstick to move under normal vibrations of the engine and gearbox. maybe post a video?

I agreed with you did I not?

Yes, it doesn't take a genius to work out that if you coast the same distance as you would while being in a gear you are in a worse position economy wise. To really benefit from coasting you need to have economy in mind when driving, appreciating and understanding lifting off the throttle as early as possible and rolling further than you would with engine breaking to counteract the fact then when you are coasting you are using fuel idling. This is not a lot of people, so IMO most people are using more fuel than they would without coasting. Granted, I don't think its a noticeable difference given the variables when driving. At the end of the day its just something to make the car appear more economical on paper. As for causing wear, automatic gearboxes can't read your mind or the road conditions and especially when equipped with the smaller engines they change gear like crazy compared to if you are driving a manual so I don't think there is a need to worry.

Usually a failing DMF will shake the whole car, check the engine and gearbox mounts and if they are ok its probably a failing DMF.

Could very well be, have a good look around to see if anything obvious has blown off the turbo or intercooler and check all the smaller lines, check the map sensor is seated correctly which I believe is mounted straight to one of the boost pipes but could be wrong.

No it should be the one that you were videoing under that steel bracket in the enigne bay beside the expansion tank, at least I think so on that year of common rail. Maybe hold a screwdriver to it and put it on your ear to try and pinpoint the noise but from the video it seemed like a good place to start considering your running issues.

Sounds like an air/vacuum leak to me.

What about unplugging it with the car running? It might cut out soon after but if the whining stops instantly you know its that.

Sounds like the aux fuel pump is dying to me. What year is it?

A wastegate would be on the hot side not the cold side so it still requires a diverter valve or some other method of relieving the pressure on close of throttle

You do realise that compressor surge is a very bad thing for your turbo.

Just been to my car and can confirm air is ditributed to both side vents whatever the setting. If it showed air to these vents all the time on the screen people would think there was something wrong with the selection so you can't please everyone either way I don't think.

Just FYI, bear in mind this manual is for a Passat but it gives a good reference for expected temperatures at a given ambient:

I'm not sure if an element of that is normal, I know for sure when I have the windscreen only selected I also get *some* air from the vents at each side of the car, presumably to aid in keeping the side windows mist free in winter. Never tried to see if there is any when the footwell is selected though THe belnding flap is a different flap to what diverts the air to each section so if it is abnormal it will not be the blending flap at fault I don't think.

I would assume there is a potential for the gearbox to forget its learned values if the gearbox ECU is flashed with a different software, or maybe they made some changes to the current software that didn't affect the adaptations. Either way, if it was a legitimate person/company they would have known this and done the adaptations anyway if required. I'm pretty confident doing the adaptaion should not affect the map.

I was just about to put this! I know some cars don't always have this option but in driver modes I can set my air con to economy or normal.

To be honest, I think the common practice for battery heating/cooling is a seperate water circuit rather than using the AC or cool air directly, if you look at a Telsa battery pack being removed you see the water connections. It does make it an almost idiotproof procedure though and pretty well priced considering how much a can of 'top up' is.

Whether they did or didn't its probably worth doing one now to see if that sorts it!

They will probably have them on the condenser as well. Most EV's will have a heat pump setup rather than just straight AC as well as it is more efficient for heating the cabin. It wouldnt surprise me if the more budget EV's don't have as good as an AC system purely to reduce load on the battery as well, or maybe they are set up so when the car is stationary the AC output is less. I second what J.R has said though, with some experience and trial and error you can get the charge something like good using a set of gauges, enough to be able to get good cooling and enough to get used cars out of the door, whether this is morally right is another question. My Dad has had lots of good success keeping more 'mature' cars chilling nice but for a car you use a lot where you want the best performance get it charged by weight in the proper manor. Also remember the newer models won't use the usual R134A and may use R1234YF or whatever it is

What J.R is getting at is if there is a sensor reading 10 degrees lower than it should be, the control module won’t know this is a bad reading and may output air significantly hotter than it needs to, to compensate for this. To self diagnose these issues you need a complete set of data for the car, all the temperature sensors, flap positions etc. maybe some cheap thermometers for comparison.

One thing you could do to prove the @J.R. theory is to put the fan speed to max and close all the other vents and see if the flow of cold air gets worse. Which HVAC system do you have? I'm not sure if the Octavia ever came with 3 Zone climate but if you have, check the rear zone is in sync with the front 2 zones. I imagine if the rear was set cold you would feel the cold air from the rear footwell vents that are under the front seats. The opposite happenned to me a few years ago in the middle of summer, had the front blasting cool air and kept getting a woft of warm air and the kids had put the rear temperature up to 28 Degrees!

Its not unusual to get uneven cooling of the cabin when the air conditioning is not performing well due to low refridgerant. I suspect once you sort out your A/C issue, the issue of the passenger side blowing warm(or ambient) will go away. Can you see what the refridgerant pressure is with OBDeleven? This will give you an indication of the charge level

As above, put a wet cloth on top to soften it to save before rinsing. Paint is quite resiliant to bird poo but if you let it bake in the sun the paint softens underneath it which forms to the texture of said turd which is why it can sometimes leave a mark. That't what I read somewhere anyway 😁

If you are having DPF issues this normally results in oil dilution and a rising oil level so if this is an issue then it is not your only issue unfortunetly. Let us know what your mechanic finds and good luck!