SuperbTWM

IIRC no cylinder pressure on superb II, don't quote me on it though

Everything is pretty easy if you take it to someone to do it for you 😂

Maybe its got the wrong dipstick? Thinking about it, I wasn't aware a high level alarm even existed until recent-ish models, and that, I assume, is only to catch cars with oil dilution issues causing the oil level to rise from DPF woes.

I Surely a 2010 ocativia only has 1 oil pressure switch. Only the modern engines that have variable oil pressures have more than 1 switch, at least that ive noticed anyway, happy to be proven wrong though. Its often the reason why low oil pressure starts to give the low oil pressure warning when idling rather than when driving with higher rpms. I would say as the amount of oil increased in the top end as the revs increased the level dropped below the pick up tube. 1.5 litres is not a lot of oil

Yes, drive it as normal. Does the stop/start error come up every journey?

You would have to own or find somebody that owns some sort of OBD code reader that plugs into the car and reveals any stored error codes hopefully leading to a sucessful diagnosis of whatever is wrong. At this point you have a warranty so you don't need to worry about that, just take it in and let them sort it.

Do you mean the first and second column: Minor increase in fuel economy at the expense of a minor decrease in comfort

Start by changing the key fob battery, scanning for fault codes may or may not give you more info as to what might be the problem with the start/stop. At this point anybody would be guessing

Sorry, meant GPF-Gasoline Particulate FIlter. like a diesel particulate filter any oil contamination uses up their usable life dramatically as it leaves behind ash residue when regenerated

Have you tried putting the rear calipers in the service position and back again using a scan tool in a bid to reset things?

Phone them and tell them about the fault and mileage and take a picture as evidence and if they are decent people they should honor any repairs that were requried within the 1000 miles despite you going over that by the time you have chance to get it back to them

Looks like it sarificed itself for the good of the rest of the engine!

Its nice to be able to see the pressures but it does come at a small cost and inconvenience when the car gets 10+ years old when the valve stems have never been changed as they don't change them by default like they do a regular valve stem.

A sump on a small modern engine would not be as forgiving as that one but I imagine you will be fine, worst case you have blown a bit more oil through the breather system than normal and being a 2010 there isn't any senstive emissions equipment like a GFP to damage.

1300KM on the car, 5000KM on the clutch 😁

Intrigued also, I thought he meant the 'options key' also known as 'Alt?' AND 'J' but this doesn't work for me either so who knows, maybe this is some sort of Apple keyboard trickery🤮???

Does it do it out in the natural light? On the video it looks like the refresh rate of the camera is coinciding with the PWM'd LED tail lights giving the strobing effect

Seems a bit strange to me, if you have reset the system it should know its normal for that wheel to be rotating faster and only measure each wheel relative to when it was reset

my guess is the rubber boots on the end are to help dampen high frequency vibrations and stop squealing noises and such. I've seen some on other Makes/models that have a metal sleeve on the end making it slightly tighter than the other guide pin presumably to serve the same purpose. Not sure why they didn't make them all like that though.

Did you drill that after an afternoon at the pub 😉 Happy New Car!!! This is one of the final and probably the best versions of the PD IMO, they only offered it in 115 in this model of car IIRC, probably because they had the 140 and 170 2.0 PD which were ok until they added the DPF's to them which don't work well at all. Don't worry, you will get used to the clatter of a diesel eventually!

BTW that does not rule out the thermostat. If it was stuck open you might struggle to get hot air quickly but if it sticks closed you would still get good flow and heat in the cabin and overheating.

The temp gauge is heavily biased anyway so not much more use than a couple of warning lights anyway. Is there a chance it was doing a regen at the time or the air con on which could explain the fan? Is the DPF differential pressure sensor still intact? I would drive with the live data next time you make a trip and just confirm the overheating theory then you can start looking at things like the water pump or thermostat

I did actually think you where the OP, but this this isn't even the thread you created, you've just hijacked it. We have 2 lots of information on a similar issue and you are moaning about clarification???

Never suggested there was a need? To be fair it was meant to be a replay to J.R rather than being directly related to your issue. As i'm sure you are aware the car doesn't actually calcluate fuel consumption, it is a theoretical value, so the fact you are not going as far with the same fuel consumption means you are either missing some fuel or the car isn't correctly calculating the MPG and it sounds like you are going to start manually checking this so you should have your answer soon. Have you checked your oil level recently to make sure its not getting dumped in there? I doubt it mind as you seem to be missing more than what would fit in your sump.

The given capacity of VAG fuel tanks are plucked out of the sky, without emptying the tank you have no way of knowing how much fuel it carries. Mine is quoted at 65 litres and at zero miles remaining I can get 65 litres out of the pump, yet I have driven past this point on numerous occations so I know for sure there is 5-10 Litres left even beyond this.