SuperbTWM

Looks like the seal to me as well, has somebody been working on it?

Do you mean in the engine consumers menu? If so, when it talks about air conditioning it means the HVAC system as a whole, not the AC itself. Please supply pictures, it will help

As above, use a cable rod, welding rod or other thin but fairly stiff rod to poke about, i'm sure you can find a path with minimal dismantling of the dash.

A 6 point socket is the better option, even when torqued correctly they can be quite stiff

Just want to say letting the car idle to finish the regen is IMO a bad idea and unecessary. It's a waste of fuel and I think it is likely to cause more oil dilution and wear to the cylinders than it otherwise would by just letting it carry on regenerating the next time you drive it.

Sorry, when you said ‘last week’ I read it as ‘last year’ for some reason. so you’ve had the air filter done and the spark plugs but they missed the pollen filter? And you have checked they have at least done that?

Sounds like they have misunderstood the issue here. If I understnad it right then the pollen filter is not due now as its not a major service which is why they don't want to change it. The issue is that it wasn't done last time, which is what you should really have complained about at the last service rather than now. I know thats easy to say in hindsight.

I think its 1K with a 2.2K shunt IIRC.

As long as the althernator is charging OK and the freewheel pulley is working I would leave it alone for the time being. The pulley can sometimes make a bit of a 'ticking' noise if its on its way out or cause the tensioner to move bounce if its totally locked up. If you take the aux. belt off the pulley should spin the alternator one way but not the other (although they usually have a decent amount of resistance in the non-driving direction) If you give it a quick spin with your hand either way you should get it to slip one way but not the other. Worst case scenario with a failing DMF is that it seperates and causes damage but IMO its rare and the car should be fine until you get round to changing it.

Front of the engine on or very close to the oil filter/cooler

We use a similar sytem on industrial fire systems where we have 1 resistor is series and 1 in parallel locally on a NO open contact so the system can distinguish between an open circuit/dead short and a genuine alarm to prevent false activations which is quite important when you are potentially soaking large generators and transformers in water.

Every VAG I have owned has been 2 wires, closed CCT for good, open CCT for warning. Apart from when you damage the cabling, which can easily happen if somebody has been a bit rough when changing out suspension components etc. and caught the cable.

Maybe removing the charge air cooler radiator and flushing it will prove it is ok first rather than just changing it. Even removing a hose and taking a sample of coolant and seeing what it looks like. Does your expansion tank have the silica bag installed and is it still intact?

The evaporator should live after the blower but before the heater matrix. Usually behind the glove box in that sort of region

The evaporator temeprature sensor should help modulate the air con compressor and regulate the temperature of the evaporator to stop it from freezing. I would check the sensor hasnt become dislodged and check it is reading correctly if your evaporator is freezing up.

Get the sensor replaced before it causes you serious trouble with the rest of the emissions equipment.

How much coolant have you put in the car since the charge cooler has been replaced?

Looks the same pipe that they used on the mk4 Golf, if you search 'ALH boost pipe' on a popular auction site there is a few. Need the part number really or it removing from the car but it comes from the side mounted intercooler to the EGR/ASV I think

Yea, it sounds quite bad on the video, I think you know what needs to be done!

No, this sounds more like head gasket issues! Did you keep the charge cooler they replaced needlessly? if its good it will be worth selling on.

Just to confirm, I believe there are 2 EGR coolers on your engine and if one is leaking, they will leak internally so you won't notice externally just by looking under the bonnet or on the floor.

Can you tell it’s definitely coming from the rear? The car also has a transfer box which transmits the power 90 degrees down the propshaft, if you know it’s not that I would maybe look for a second hand or recon rear drive unit (Haldex & diff). Also might be worth changing the oil in the front transfer box as a preventative measure if you can.

Pressurising the individual parts or even the whole cooling system and potentially looking inside with a borescope is probably the way to get a definitive answer. It can be tricky as a leak may only be minute until the systems get heat in them. Has the specialist suggested a way forward?

One of the EGR coolers is the next port of call providing you are confident of no external leakage

Is it a brand new injector?