SuperbTWM

It says in the manual the fu el rail has to be removed to swap it out, even if the clearance is fine, torquing it up to 100NM would put strain on the fuel pipes and any brackets holding the fuel rail on. Here, you can diagnose it yourself now!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

If they had mounted this sensor in a rediculous place where it could burn the car down really easily there would be a good case for a safety concern but the fact they put the sensor inside a heatproof pouch, potentially to mitigate against any further damage and this thing burnt up without the driver even knowing then there is absolutely no chance they will be interested in this. If you can give example of cars that actually set on fire or some cremated remains you might stand a chance.

I'm sure there is something down there to stop people siphoning fuel out so perhaps that is faulty or there is a forgeign object obstructing fuel. If you take the rear arch liner out you can see most of the tube.

Exactly this! For such a small, low range sensor it must have a really thin and delicate diaphragm inside so it will be far from immune to failures.

Just the one in the front, on other cars I’ve had the boot one and the one in the back were on separate circuits but I’ll have to check

Seen it asked many times on forums how to change permantent live sockets to switched live for the use of dash cams etc. but never seen a solution. Every single VAG I have owned has had permant live sockets but for some reason my B8 Passat has Ignition live only which is not how I like it as odd times I want to charge things while I'm in the car with the ignition off or while the car is locked. Well I saw a video explainging that the fusebox is designed so you can move the 12V socket feed fuse up or down one to feed it from the ignition live bus bar or permanent live bus bar. Had a look today and it appears to be correct, I now have permanent 12V sockets. Not sure how long this has been a thing but just thought I would share it as I've never seen it mentioned anywhere else.

Vag havn't used clutches on their compressors for around 20 years, so I would be very surprised if it had a clutch, instead it is driven all the time and has a device that changes the compressor geometry to pump more or less. This does not have any feedback as far as i'm aware so the fact the car is not letting you even turn the AC on from the HVAC panel probably means the fault lies with the module or there is another issue preventing the AC to come on rather than an output from the module/wiring or compressor. Even if the AC was low on refridgerant or empty i've always known the AC to 'appear' to work from the indicator on the HVAC panel Do you have access to VCDS to see the live data from the module? this would probably help

A nice 1mm cut off wheel will have that off in seconds. As would a pair of mole grips or pipe grips and an impact wrench

Sounds to me like it was an issue with the alarm or the car thought one of the doors was still open (although the interior light and the door open warning would have given that away) The indicators do not flash on locking the car, they flash for activation of the alarm system. For example, if you leave any of the doors open (apart from the drivers door) and you press the lock button, the car will lock its doors but the indicators will not flash. On closing the remaining door/s the indicators will then flash on activation of the alarm.

Unplug the connector on the water pump to stop it actuating the sleeve, I know it has been replaced but that would rule that out completely.

Ive noticed on my Passat that the calculated is always higher than the measured, the measured actually starts out negative from a fresh regen. Its almost like the differential pressure sensor was not zero'd correctly from the factory but everything is working fine so I have never messed around with it. Why do you think the EGR cooler is the cause of the issues with the DPF?

It has aircon but instead of an aircon 'ON' and 'OFF' button it has an Economy ON and OFF button So economy ON = Air con OFF economy OFF = Air con ON

I would say no, but you don’t have to remove the wheel or the arch liner. 15mm? spanner on the tensioner wheel to get enough slack on the belt and it comes off. cable tied through the outer cage of the alternator and then another through a random hole on the frame at the other side to keep it to the RHS of the car.

I think the issue is that the valve ported end spins freely from the solenoid coil end, so I thought because you could turn it in the hole it was breaking the O ring free in the bore but it wasn’t, just the coil end moves and you have no option but to just pull it out with a wiggling motion with some grips which is easier said than done. Hope that makes sense The new one has a 25 Ohm coil, old one is 1200-1500 so a conclusive issue

Brute force, ignorance, and a set of Knipex Cobras and she’s out. They must install it with the ‘O’ ring dry so it’s a pig to get out 04L 906 655 B £138 inc. VAT Didn’t want to pay dealer prices but I ain’t doing this job twice.

20 minutes later…. T30 out, valve still stuck in engine. The valve will rotate but it seems to be stuck on what can only be the O ring.

So, car in the air, under tray off, belt off, 3x13mm headed setscrews, compressor supported with cable ties and you have access to the valve now.

I think you could do it without taking the arch liner off, its just a matter of getting to the tensioner with a spanner to remove the tension while you slide the belt off. It states to remove the compressor and 'tie of to the right side' @M_Shaz There are probably 2 options, remove the pipe from the compressor or remove the compressor. But as removing the pipe would mean evacuating the refirdgerant and replacing, it is not really an option due to time and cost

Just checked the Erwin Manual and it does indeed state that that you can just unbolt the compressor and get it out that way, its not much of a job taking the wheel arch liner out and taking the belt off. T30 Torx @ 8NM and 25NM for the air con compressor bolts (3 off) if you are as anal as I am 😂 This is for a Passat so your results may vary

That Looks a real pain, I really don’t want to be having to evacuate the air con and having it filled up again. I think leaving the pipes on the compressor and moving the whole thing would be a much better idea if that is possible.

Hi, have you got this repaired? I think by talking about it I have manifested this very issue on my own car. 2.0 150 CR 92K Seems a common fault. No EML though, seems to have just been happy in high pressure mode. The solenoid is at the front left of the engine as you look at it I believe, will investigate this weekend but I’m 95% sure it will end up with a new one, seems a common issue.

I would leave it as designed, you never know what other secondary issues it might cause, other manufacturers have been doing the same thing, it’s nothing new really

This is a fuel saving measure, nothing more, it's a similar system to that of the TDI. 1.8-2 Bar up to 3000rpm, 3.8-4.2 thereafter. There are suggestions that oil temperature and engine load also influence the changeover point.

Don't forget its in the manufacturers interest to get engines to meet the latest emissions requirements by reducing friction and drag, not to allow the engine to last forever. This is the reason we now have variable oil pressure systems for low engine speeds and loads and drive belts that run in oil instead of a tried and tested chain! Not to be pescimistic or anything 😁

I've had good luck using a small impact wrench/driver, keep it on a low enough setting so it just sits there and gives it a good rattling to free things up. The vibrations might help