SuperbTWM

I've got a 3HP 50L Clarke Boxer, I think it does around 14CFM so its enough for impact guns and light/intermittent use a of rotary tools tools such as die grinders etc. My Dad has a very similar one by SIP that I got with my Halfords trade card probably over 10 years ago and that has been faultless, I think it may be a little quieter than the Clarke as well. 2HP version of the Clarke is available if your needs aren't as great. The 3HP does not like to run on extensions leads or on medium to long radial circuits of 2.5mm CSA either so bare that in mind or be prepared to change any MCB's to type C I would personally stay away from the direct drive models as they are generally of cheaper contruction and sometimes a bit louder but again it depends on how much you are going to use it.

What was the issue with the old one?

Its not a bad design because you might be able to get one pair together but the remaining pair don't reach other so it should be pretty damn obvious that something is not right. 😂 To think this cretin has worked on the timing belt is worrying.

I'm not surprised your local garage had no idea what you were talking about because neither do I. To make this simple to understand, forget whether you may or may not have a nut on your driveshaft (some have a bolt, some have a nut). To take a wheel off you don't touch anything bar the nuts or bolts holding the wheel on so I'm not sure which nut he is on about unless he removed the track rod ball joint from the hub maybe for some reason and thats the nut he was talking about??

Try turning the ignition on but not starting the car and leave it for a few minutes. Did the car not specify an amount to adblue to put in? Mine gives a minimum and maximum value to add, I'm not sure why but like @J.R. has mentioned, there has been instances where filling it right to the top has confused or upset the level measuring system. I would continue driving it for a now and see if the reading comes back on its own, of course the worry is that if it continues to count down then it may not be possible to drive it.

How many miles remaining on the Adblue? Not sure if this could bring EML on to put extra pressure on you to refill if it gets very low, the car will not start wonce Adblue is empty You really need some diagnostics to further identify the issues. Have you used the car on a few more trips to confirm your overheating issue has definetly gone?

Good luck with the repair, and let us know how it goes, hopefully it's as simple as the water pump!

Although I agree that it does sound like classic failure of the water pump shroud there are 2 things that don't quite add up: The heater matrix loop uses an electric pump to circulate so if there was a problem with the main pump you would get heat in the cabin regardless, maybe this pump has failed or is this a more siniser fault like a blockage? and even with very poor coolant flow, with the amount of heat in an overheating engine the thermostat should still open and allow some water into the rad so I would expect the top hose to be hot, the bottom one however may be stone cold, which hose were you feeling? could the thermostat be blocked? Silica teabag maybe?

No, there will be many variants across those engines sizes and engine codes.

If you want to cover all bases, just changing the gearbox oil would suffice, no need to flush it or do anything fancy, personally I think its a good idea, it can get rid of metal/wear particles and contamination that may have been left over from initial manufacturing. Don't expect to notice any difference but some do report better gear changes. Not sure on the bevel gear oil, I assume they mean the gearing that transfers power down the prop shaft but I always thought that part was integral to the main gearbox, you would have to look that up. It is a good idea to service the Haldex also, I always thought this generation did have a service schedule for oil and filter but if not I would still keep on top of it as its an expensive repair and would probably be more than the car is worth to try and repair at a garage.

I seem to recall in the Haynes Manual it said to bleed the rears in tandem and then the fronts inbetween doing them individually, thats what got the last bit of air out when I last made the error but I did at least have a pedal at that point

If you have introduced air into the ABS block be prepared for a world of pain if you don't have a way of running the ABS pump.

I decided to do some logging on the way to work last night as I've always wondered if at any point in my commute the DPF actually got hot enough start passively regenerating. As it happens, it ended up resuming an active regen that I interupted the day before but the readings were not what I was expecting: around 16g soot mass calculated and 0.26g soot mass measured I thought I may have had a dead sensor but both readings came down pretty much together despite the huge zero error until the measured got to -7.9ish (calculated at around 6) The calculated then dropped to around 5.6 before the regen finally stopped. The car has never had any DPF issues and from what I have noticed doesn't regen overly regularly so I assume active regens have been triggered from the calulated value and this discrepancy may have been an issue for a while as I've never checked it before. Do I play with it or leave it alone? Thoughts from your good selves

You sure about that? I haven’t heard of anybody using VCDS on a non VAG car, nor heard anybody speak of it. I think it was Autel I was last looking at for a scan tool, I believe if you want to keep it updated though there is a subscription to pay.

@J.R. You were spot on, not quite as bad as I thought regarding the VIN locking

That's useful to know, thanks. I'm not saying a generic code reader can replace VCDS, but there does seem to be some nice devices out there that can pefform some level of adaptations and perform calibrations/force regens etc. and you are able to use them on other makes and models as well so much more handy if you have other cars. There are those bluetooth dongles that pair with a phone app as well which can perform adaptaions, is it Carista?

Please don't take the following as 100% correct as i'm no VCDS guru VCDS stands for Vag Com Diagnostic Software, I believe this is because VW didn't like it being called Vag Com as this implied it was an official manufacturer tool rather than a third party tool. There have been different versions over the years from a 'Lite' version that you could use with 3rd party cables for older generations and early CAN bus cars, I think the cable I have at the moment is Hex+Can which still talks to most modern cars but there are odd modules used in current platforms (MQB?) which use a different protocol so won't talk to the module. For example, my 2018 Passat can be interrogated no problems but on my Dad's Kodiak it doesn't seem to want to talk to the convenience module. This cable is now discontinued. In light of the above you really want the newer HEX-V2 or HEX-NET devices, the problem with this is that Ross-Tech have cottoned on to people on forums offering their services to other car owners and now you have to buy a licence according to the number of VIN numbers you want or buy an unlimited VIN version for a lot of £££ There are UK distributers of VCDS such as Gendan, this is where I got mine from. For what its worth I think VCDS is a brilliant tool but now you have to use a licence up just to connect it up to another car to do basic functions that any generic code reader could do seems a bit of a rip off, I think in future I will end up buying a decent generic scanner that can view live data and use that for everyday uses and maybe only upgrade my VCDS cable if I have a specific use in mind where it will pay for itself.

Please post your findings if you manage to do a repair, it may prove usefull for others in the future, good luck!

You could find the plug for the heater and check with a multimeter, other than that, remove the tank and inspect/remove/replace. even for just the heater repair it looks quite expensive. There are a few kits on eBay if you search for ‘VW adblue heater’ Also a few videos on YouTube although couldn’t find much specific to the Karoq

You are not flashing or changing software version with VCDS, its just a program that someone has developed to allow small coding changes to be done quickly and easily by anybody with half a brain cell so you can configure certain aspects of each control unit. From changing the temperature presets of the heated seats to enabling features that are not enabled from factory despite having all the hardware.

I think the heater lives in the adblue tank so the tank will need to be removed for a repair.

I would say you don't need a particulary high quality cable unless you are wanting to utilise it for fast charging over long lengths or use it for laptop charging. Usually cars have a feeble 0.5A or 1A charging output, not sure whether this has changed since the introduction of USB C outputs?

Shoudn't you be asking the person who changed it this question?

That still doesn't prove the switch is working correctly, it could still be flase alarm. Getting a test gauge is probably the best way of checking the oil pressure before you go ahead and do anything drastic like take the sump off. I would be quick about it though, I wouldn't want to drive my car about knowing that it has potential oil pressure issues.

IIRC there is a third fuel pump, boosts the fuel pressure after the lift pump before the HPFP, have they checked that? Lives beside the coolant resovoir