TheClient

If say the rear speakers with fader fully to rear don't show it its almost certainly speaker driver fault. It can't be Bluetooth fault if say rears are fault free. When you say small driver in doors, do you mean the tweeter high frequency units? Like this?

It would be my first suggestion. There maybe more mid/bass in the streaming compared to radio, it would make a faulty voicecoil on the speaker cut in and out. Try fading to say rear speakers only. Do they also show exact same fault? It is nearly impossible that all 4 speakers + tweeters would all be faulty at same time. If it's not that then you need to discount the phone, try another. Beyond that a firmware update on the unit maybe worth a try they can fix faults that become apparent on early firmware.

Most likely to be a faulty speaker or several faulty speakers. The cutting in and out maybe just sound production cutting out, not the Bluetooth connection. Remove speakers and test or replace. You could try the balance control to one side and fader to rear to see if really the entire sound is cutting out at the same time on all 4 channels.

Yep. Top mount and top bearings fixed 75% of my problem. I still have a little bit of what you describe left though. Which is bound to be the control arm bush. My experience on the arb mounts is they tend to be more a scraping type sound and mine is more noticeable when cold and going over speed bumps. All common mqb faults / characteristics!

It sounds very muffled on the recording, and a lot of that terrible digital artefact sound, but I tend to agree it must be some sort of resonance / vibration.... You may need two people to help track it down if it will do it in neutral and rev...

Good one. Post a photo of the new motor, they are distinctive!

Surely you meant to recommend fixed rather than variable when reading your subsequent replies about fretting for mechanical longevity? Fixed is 12 months or under 10k miles, 16,000km. There is no oil quality sensor. Full stop. The variable service approach to oil quality, is an algorithm only. Takes into account cold starts, mileage, engine temp etc, etc. The only sump sensor is oil temp and oil level. Because it is an algorithm, it is not perfect. It is also slanted towards fleet approach to minimise cost of ownership for the first few years potentially to the detriment of later years. As @Stonekeeper mentioned, they, he, she, use a change interval of 6,000miles / 12 months and I would say that is not excessive and does no harm and may do some good knowing how much carbon build up and oil clogging you can get using long interval - variable servicing. I try to aim for 6,000 miles / max 12 months. 19K km or 20K km is too much in my opinion, although may be permitted if the vehicle has the variable service algorithm turned on. But it does not give you guaranteed good engine health. Far from it.

Afraid I do not know thee factory spec. But based on experience - tight but not ridiculous. I would guesstimate maybe 40nm to 50nm.

This is no criticism of you. It is just the nature of car advice forums and when noises are the issue, it can be very hard to give advice without hearing what you mean. To me a woosh sound is different to a buzzing sound. (edit actually you said mooing and someone else mentioned woosh!) As someone else posted, if it is a woosh whenever coming off throttle that sounds like the diverter, that is what they do, let off boost immediately. In the standard set up the release is internally inside the turbo. Some woosh is still normal though. It is quite noticeable on my Golf R. Some boy racers obviously change the set up to make the discharge outside the turbo and make the noise very very noticeable! But that is at odds with a buzzing noise, which to me, sounds like some sort of vibration or resonance and could be literally anything under the car or in the engine bar, heat shields, fuel lines, axle shields goes on and on.......

No, not from above. Underneath with undertray removed, torch and mirror maybe borsecope camera - possibly. However, the leak can be very hidden, mind leaked into the pcb enclosure and fried it. Very difficult to spot without removing thermostat and waterpump.

Most likely the lock actuator in the door. It may work again for a while when it gets warmer but they are a relatively common failure. Are you saying, your central locking button does not operate as well. That is likely a separate issue but could be related. Have you run a full scan?

It's hard to say. If it does it once or twice more I'd definitely get it checked. But there's no magic number of times.

I'd say for anyone diy ing it without a vacuum fill it's very normal to have some air pockets. If they vacuum filled and test drove it up to temp, it shouldn't really happen but i suppose it can as they are prone to some air pockets. This is assuming there is no leak from their reassembly. It might be hard to spot if there is one. But you could check rad hoses and matrix hoses on the engine side. You won't be able to see under dash but could check for wet carpet. also, you shouldn't keep filling up with only water as you will dilute the coolant so may need to add half what you've added neat. Ideally you should use demineralised or distilled water as well. If you can spare time maybe worth calling them and arranging to check for leaks and add the neat coolant for the water added.

As you've suggested, one of the most practical approaches, in the circumstances, is probably driving another same engine / drivetrain car. You could run a scan of all modules, log boost and calculated torque and so on. Get a passenger to time 0-60 or another performance metric to compare with what the car was reported in test drive reviews. Even take to a tuner and run on a dyno - but most of these suggestions are relatively impractical and unlikely scenarios to carry out on a test drive car available for sale. Presumably the vendor would agree to you running a full scan but beyond that it gets tricky in the circumstances.

Yes, but a coil or the end of one, can break even when quite. Edit: new I'd be most surprised that one side is lower by design! I've never seen a vw mqb chassis factory spec that suggests one side is different! I'll try and search for the factory height as well, in the workshop manual there will be different heights for the different suspension pr codes listed..

It does look very low. I'd say 40mm. If the shocks aren't replaced short travel items your handling may not be up to much. Have you got the factory specification for sports suspension height from centre of wheel to top of wheel arch? Compare yours to that. If its Lower on one side I wonder if a coil has broken or the coil pig tail end broken off. Hard to see sometimes without jacking car up.

Yes OK, sure. But, what I would say, is the boost profile in general driving may needs to be compared actual to specified. An actuator fault could easily result in boost being above specified, or lagging in response to decreased boost specification. That could explain the higher consumption. In summary- with such a fault, it may not necessarily be peak boost that is a problem. It may be responsiveness to changed boost pressure requirements called for by the ecu on and off throttle, part throttle, increased load up hill. Etc etc.. Although, if it is far enough out, usually the ecu will log a boost out of specification upper or lower threshold fault. ..

The radiator was effectively emptied when I did my job as both hoses have to be removed. But there is a risk of an airlock for sure when refilling, which is why I aimed to fill up as much as possible directly before connecting top hose. If you do diy - you will need one or two radiator hose picks. I could not have done the job without them. The spring clamps mould edit. fuse the rubber hose onto the connectors and your very likely to break plastic unions trying to get the hose off without them.

Not done the rad but have done the thermostat module and waterpump where the rad hoses lead back to without a vacuum fill. I prefilled the rad as much as I could through the upper rad inlet. And preprimed the water pump by filling down the other end of that rad pipe. Reconnected the piping. Then start car and wait, then top up several times through header tank once the thermostat starts opening. I think if too much air gets in and circulated around the system it just won't circulate properly and the air will be impossible to displace without vacuum.. Good luck with it.

You could replace the actuator speculatively. Or do some boost logging. If the servo is faulty it should be showing on specified vs actual boost. When you move the actuator rod. Does it feel like there is play in the wastegate? It would be a lot easier to assess with the rod disconnected.. You could also try to do basic settings on the turbo actuator, see if it completed. If not, try to adjust and retry.

It seems, almost all the policies are - we will recover you but only for very limited miles now….. although they have to get you to a garage who can do the repair if they aren’t taking you to your preferred destination don’t they?… rhetorical q for you at this point if you’re getting returned home after all. Hope you are home soon.

Sounds entertaining in a not so very desirable way!, Good luck with the rac call-out. Let us know how it goes.

The wastegate position according to position sensor, is not where the ecu asked it to be. It could be a number of alternatives… wastegate carboned up and not moving freely; wastegate actuator servo motor faulty; wastegate itself worn bushings excessive free play causing it to be out of adjustment - see next point. wastegate needs upper and lower limits adaption re setup but this is likely due to worn wastegate which may need new turbo (or wastegate rebushed). for starters you could try and move the actuator rod with the engine off and see if it moves back and forth ok. This in itself may make the code stay away for a while if cleared, but it may come back, if one of the other causes underlies it. how many miles on the car?

Yes, from outside. Usually a bumper off job.

Agree but some care is needed to understand what you are seeing. For example, by default at low revs and idle piston cooling jet control valve is closed and there should be no oil pressure at the switch. That test under those conditions doesn't prove an oil pressure issue. Of course, in a DIY environment, it can be just easier to replace or test the switch and go from there. A guage helps though and clearly a garage would have one as long as you know how to test and how!