TheClient

Umm, guessing without seeing / inspecting really. New gaskets used for throttle body and intake manifold fitting? Absolutely, sure, as others have said, that all vacuum / pcv pipes disturbed are refitted properly the pcv connections "click" closed or have not sprung leaks. I wouldn't be totally confident in an aftermarket IM, what is the aftermarket brand? Some of the symptoms also sound a bit like an installation or reassembly issue esp given that the old faulty IM didn't do that? That said, genuine IM is almost always universally recommended. When I did my intake port and valve carbon clean, removing the IM and the injectors I sent my injectors off to be flow tested and cleaned rather than replaced.

Hello and Welcome to Briskoda. Covered many times. Depends exactly what the sound is. The description of it coming and going sounds exactly like the evap purge valve above the intake manifold at the front of the engine when you open the bonnet. Either record the noise or use your ear to confirm the tap tap tap is from that solenoid. Mine has done it from purchase at 5yr and 34k miles. Still have not changed it. Your other comments indicate it may be something else, or some other problems as well. Need more info really. An evap problem will almost always show as a engine fault light and code. Have you scanned? How many miles on the car engine?

The speaker that is not working has been damaged or gone faulty, or the wiring to it is faulty. You can test with a small 1.5v battery at the speaker. If there is no noise or cone movement it is caput. The other speaker is likely to be damaged burnt voicemail as @Cubbingtonsuggests.

Well you have a semi automatic right to reject inside 6 months for a serious enough fault, but my understanding is they are still able to charge a usage charge. However there is nothing written in a statutory provision under the consumer rights act for the calculation. It comes down to accepted principles and negotiation. Can they source you another similar vehicle without the fault? I would say in that case they should look at very minimal or no charge. If that is not possible and you are going elsewhere then you are entitles to a refund in the same way as you purchased usually inside 14 days. Back to the charge. It is negotiable so if they come up with something that seems fair and acceptable to you, accept. If not push back and indicate why it is not acceptable. By all means argue that only 4,000 miles are your usage, the rest is fault finding.... All theoretical but say £10k car. 4 years old. Likely Year 5 depreciation 10%. So 1,000. Nominal expected mileage per annum 10,000 miles. So depreciation charge 10p per mile. So in your case 4000*10p = £400. That is an outline approach, obviously you can change the factors to suit the retailer or the purchaser more or less. But that should give you an idea. The dealer will have some experience.

I don't know off the top of my head, but is there additional wear and tear visible compared to at purchase? If there is no specifically identifiable extra damage, or significant wear visible, it will probably come down to a mileage charge, which in turn will depend on the purchase cost to some degree. What was purchase cost and how many miles have you done? Also, is this the mk3 2016 in your profile or something else?

But that doesn't make an awful lot of sense. If the noise wasn't there at manufacture, something has changed. Also, when they say oil rail fills presumably, they mean hydraulic tensioner fills, that pushes on a tensioning rail, that keeps the chain tight. And the hydraulic tensioner is supposed to have a rathchet, which takes up the slack when there is no hydraulic pressure, so there should be no period where the chain is loose and noisey for that reason. If it is loose, it would be at risk of slipping teeth and could indicate the tensioner is faulty. Ultimately, if the noise is widespread in those gen engines after a few thousand kms, and hasn't resulted in widely reported meltdowns, I guess it comes down to either i) putting up or ii) paying for some investigation and remedial action. FWIW, in the mk2 threads I have just uploaded my EA888 gen 2 at start up and it does not sound like the recording in this thread to my ears anyway. Edit: @Gaz_ Is it possibly the initial Whirr noise at startup that completely fades inside about a second at 8 seconds that you are commenting on? I have heard that on other vehicles and I think I have heard it on mine, on occasion?

The h The whole thing other than the starter motor sounds like a bag of spanners! There sounds like something thumping / banging at 12 / 13 seconds and happens a few times. The audio if all thrashy and distorted and cuts in and out, not sure if that's the phone audio or representative of some of the other sounds happening.

This is mine recorded start up, after being left for 24 hours, Bonnet up. When I checked this, after leaving it for 4 days, I did notice an extra rattle / clatter immediately, probably for less than a second. It may be that that you and others are referring to that does not happen all the time. Car 1 day cold start.m4a

Welcome. It'll be real nice I'm sure. You've got a bit of protection with a dealer sale anyway, if it all goes pear shape, if Skoda you get the 30day exchange promise.... I'm sure it will be great. Look over properly and in detailed fashion when you get it though, and within permissible lockdown rules drive it a bit to soak test. The longer you leave an issue the harder it would be to return the vehicle or have implications.

Yes, I've also recently done the intake ports and valves on my 69k miles CCZA. It also looked just like your photo. I agree, not the end of the world but I tend tend to keep cars up to 10 years of age, so more than likely I would have to do it. And it just seems like a bit of retro step in terms of the updates that went with the EA888 Gen 3 in non facelift cars.

Ok. Yes agree with that. Maybe Topran do make 2 versions then, as there is also a 117 361. 114 985 does look right and it inspires a little confidence that Topran run the two versions. The unknown is exactly what the quality of the valves and spring release tensions are for example. As it's being replaced and it appears as close a match in the aftermarket world, probably try it and monitor... A

You should be on the revision journey 06H 103 495 E, AC, AH then on you mfr date, (not to be confused with the H AD AJ). There is an additional check valve visible in the bottom of the unit in the H, AD, AJ units, that presumably should not be used on pre June 2010 cars. Very few dealers, VW, Audi, Skoda look carefully enough at the etka listings to realise there are two "current fitments" each with different applicability. Although aftermarket products like Vaico, Metzger and topran are usually decent quality they only seem to release 1 version of the oil separator and sometimes they mix the part revisions between AH and AJ. Clearly they are a slightly different design and from what I've seen listed on ETKA for the CCZA should not be interchanged. I have attached the image here to show you the extra valve arrangement, this is not an endorsement of the specific products listed. Personally, I'd probably get genuine as you don't know spring preloads, check valve vacuum release etc etc. But in the UK they are about £90 so up to $300 in Oz would not surprise me. It's a lot. And you have to get them to check for the two current version mfr date applicability. It should be as I outlined at the start of this reply.

What date is your engine manufactured? Timing chain cover barcode usually easiest to identify.

Right. These engines are pretty fussy and the PCV is probably a 3 or 4 year replacement item. Did you buy a genuine, as you just can't rely on the chinese pattern parts for this item? Also, a lot of people and even skoda / vw / audi dealerships here that there are actually two "current" PCV / fine oil spearators for engines of different years and they are not exactly the same, one version includes an extra check valve. Which version did you install and what version was originally fitted? i.e the part numbers and suffix.

Has MPI now been dropped with the 245, model year 2019 - Euro6 WLTP, cars and beyond?

Wrong thread. Deleted!

Yes, that doesn't make sense. The market is very skewed against private sales at the moment as there is very few private vehicles for sale and difficulty in transacting privately with lockdown. 9k makes no sense for your vehicle. They're chancing it or their algorithms are wrong and they are blindly following them. I bet WBAC wld be higher than 9k. If the car is worth 15k, I'd say you should get 12.5 to 13k but dealers are skewed to exchange and may penalise if you only want to sell without buying. I've also got my mk2 fl listed in classifieds. Some interest but it's difficult at the moment to be selling a car and more so privately. Funnily enough WBAC and dealer offers are not too bad but it's a lot older than yours. I'm thinking the market will normalise a bit more when private sales can properly recommence and private buyers and sellers are present in the market.

It seems they make a mistake or two in every brochure. Or just change their minds it seems a bit of an oversight, to install front assist and not ACC just wanting the option fees I suppose, "marketing and packaging" but then what is the rationale for front assist std.

Is there a definitive list of what the challenge has? I have a 2018 Skoda UK brochure which says the 245 vRS has front and rear sensors on the profile car pages (exactly per the image above in this thread), but then at the back, where options are listed and prices, it is says front are not standard and a cost item as listed as a hollow circle. Does the challenge have ACC, DCC, front sensors or rear camera? The 245s from MY2019 say 68 plates don't seem to, and when I look at the spec of every 245 on autotrader I only find 1 or 2 with front sensors and and 1 or two with ACC and maybe one with DCC... It seems inevitable that retrofitting will be required to get a spec fitment that is acceptable to me (and then the wife...) and the children.... everyone wants a say! Edit:: Looks like the challenge has DCC and ACC at least, but not many for sale at present!

I would say highly advisable to throughly inspect them and wear levels at least.

Put an app like accubattery on the phone and monitor charging time / current. sounds like the max charging current is pretty low. Not sure how you would fix that. Maybe plumb your own connection, or the wiring back from the ports, but seems a bit out of expectation with a new car! At 15w it should be a bit more than 1.5 hours full charge. so that is 15 min 10%. Of coure adaptive fast charge will be up to 45w and that is 3 x as quick. 10% in 1 hour on a 4500mah cell pack seems very slow indeed. Should be about 15 min even on non adaptive charging...

There is a recording of the noise of a member at startup on this thread and a link to a youtube of start up. I'll try to record mine, my recollection is it doesn't always make the extra short duration rattle that fades out quickly, but may sometimes! Could be on longer extended periods without starting. Here is one I prepared earlier, of mine warmed when it was 5yo, 39k miles and just had the tensioner and chain changed out. "2.0tsi warm idle .m4a." I'll get a startup recording maybe an updated warmed up one too! Obviously it doesn't sound like that with the bonnet down or in the car. I also put the diesel model insulation on the inside of the bonnet which quietened it down a little, when bonnet down and car idling. 2.0tsi Idle Warm.m4a

They are distinctive engines, even the 1.4 twin charger I had in a golf sounded similar at initial start up and there can be an initial momentary rattle. Why not record the audio, I'll try to do mine as well. With hood up would get capture noise better. If the chain and tensioner and guides have been done properly you are ok there. There is a momentary time for the hydraulic tensioners edit: tappets to get pressure and will be clicky / rattly until then. You could get a mechanic to plug a gauge in for oil pressure but it isn't showing any warning lights? There is also the evap purge release tap tap tap tap tap sound which can cycle on and off. But that usually is delayed a bit from initial start up.

Check the fusebox relay that controls the pump regulator. And as previous poster says, check / remove / reseat electrical connections to regulator, check for corrosion or damaged wiring, prove wiring, as far as possible. With some luck it might just be that. The coil packs are a known failure point after a while, so no wasted money there, sounds like it has fixed the main problem?

Check the battery voltage after leaving it standing overnight. Ideally, disconnected so you can confirm it's condition / standing voltage. Octavia 2s and most new vehicles don't like low voltage. I'd try buying a new coil pack or switching around coil packs, and see if the reported cylinders are the same or not. What did the plug condition look like?