TheClient

Because they are the vendor and have consumer law responsibility for selling the product. I used to think like you as well but you have to consider the way the law is formed and the model the dealer operates in and who has a contract with whom and for what. If the vendor sells products that are not fit for purpose then they have to deal with it, it is then up to the manufacturer behind the scenes to support as appropriate and under the terms of their dealer relationship, the vendor who sold to you but you don't find out about that or what concessions they make. It is also up to a dealer to cease a relationship and sell a different make car if they do not receive the support expected. There are very limited cases where the manufacturer sells vehicles direct to you. End of the day, if your a vendor who sell expensive durable goods that are supposed to last longer than 4 years you can expect to need to make it right if it catastrophically fails early even if you did not manufacture it yourself. Edit: and in the context of this case I am talking about the possibility of a relatively small co-contribution to soften the £700 plus expenses imposition on the purchaser. Not a claim for 10s thousands in damages that would bankrupt the dealer.

Is there a problem you're trying to resolve? I like to replace the drive belts every 5 years if possible. But I don't believe it is scheduled service. When the drive belt is off you will feel how much tension there is in the tensioner. You can also press on the drive belt near the tensioner and see how much movement there is or put a spanner on the pulley and turn it the correct way (against normal direction) to release tension. It should require a fair bit of force. There is some other decent information in here about worn pulleys and radial movement. https://www.gatesaustralia.com.au/~/media/files/gates-au/heavy-duty/hd-tech-tips/troubleshooting-vribbed-belt-noise.pdf

The fault is disappointing. But it could be worse in terms of the offer. It is likely a manufacturing fault surely, it can't really be a user error or maintenance question. But, as others have pointed out, it will take a good deal of arguing and court filings and who knows how long to get an outcome. One thing you should be made aware of Skoda UK cover the manufacturing warranty and sounds like they are offering an ex gratia goodwill contribution to minimise impact to you. However, the consumer rights act and its predecessor that give the potential for 6 year claims are against the retailer i.e. RRG you bought from. So if you want to get a bit of extra help and possibly something to cover some of the extra costs, I would press the dealership director or service manager for something as well. But through negotiation and see what they say.

Engine type? Do you mean aux drive belt tensioner, i,e alternator and air con belt tensioner?>

On the mark 2 expansion bottles this was a common problem from about 4 years on. The pins in the bottle furr up and do not complete the cct and the light comes on. Scraping the pins or replacing the bottle with the integrated pins solved the problem. Quite often the light would self extinguish after driving but come back on a subsequent usually, cold start. If the coolant level is below the electrodes, what ever arrangement is in use on the Mk3, then it is back to coolant use....

Looks nice on the outside! If it was DSG I would offer to buy it! Wife won't drive manuals anymore..... One thing I've noticed lately is there is quite a small supply of mk3 vRS Petrol Estates listed privately. Most are dealers. And the prices can be £14k at that sort of milage. I wouldn't be surprised if you got near that, maybe £13k, even privately if the right buyer is out there....

As above reply, how is the condition of the car otherwise, are there other problems, does it drive ok. Cosmetically what is the condition. What is the price of a few independent places to quote for the work? Out of that, you have to make a decision, there is not enough information to offer a credible yes / no.

If there is a tsb for debris in clutch pack it may be worth an dsg oil and filter change. There is certainly not a guarantee, and it won't fix the other possible culprits but debris is the reason for the 6Sp wet clutch oil changes. You have done 30k miles and the interval is 40k miles. If you are hard on the clutch packs (or previous owners were) they could be a prime suspect. There have been members who have found service agents haven't done the filter changes when they were supposed to and even charged. Some disassembly around the battery is required. And eventually the filter can tear or fail in other ways.

OK, Update 2: Driven the car this week, starting in the mornings, it has got a lot colder. The cold light throttle missing has gone. Result. The occasional rough idle where you could feel the car rocking has gone. It is much smoother and responsive to drive when cold and also under light throttle or the combination of the two. I did not think the wife would notice. But I have sold her short. She said "I just thought it was my driving but it is a lot smoother...", Yes, when the car is not missing and stuttering..... But she would not notice that. it was quite subtle just felt jerky... Not driven far enough for any conclusions on fuel economy but hopeful it returns to that of the past.

My wife was a little critical about not having the car for 6 days, especially when Sat came around and it was still jacked up on the drive! I had the excuse that I was waiting for the injectors to arrive back, but the extra time meant I could spread out the cleaning a bit.

I don't think so I think it depends if you are just off level a certain amount does not drain until you move off and change the level again.

Yes, blanked off on every gen 2, EA888 2.0 I've seen. Is your new one blanked as well?

Must not like the heat? Maybe a bit of foil reflective tape or insulation shield would help? In another 7 years you may not own the car though!

I hear it sometimes in my car following washing / rain. I think it is the water draining out the bottom of door channels. maybe front guard drainage as well.

Yes, the whole port there is blanked. I've not ever seen it connected even in the US spec CCTAs.

A photo will probably help. Where is the extra connection exactly? See my thread here for a photo of my assembled inlet manifold believed to be 2011 original.

Beyond my budget! Are they better durability or better as in performance for remapped cars stage 2+ etc?

No problem. When I started last Monday, it was quite mild here, but by the time I was refitting on Saturday it was a lot colder on the hands and more difficult to work for long periods on the drive! I used a stainless dental pick set I bought of Ebay and it was really very good. I got 95% of contamination off with the picks and scrapers. The thing that also really helped was a workshop vac. I used it dry, and instead I just used it to vacuum out all the debris periodically, as I cleaned valves / ports. To finalise each port clean, I gave one or two goes with Mannol 9873 Intake valve / EGR cleaner. Used sparingly. And wiped out the intake ports and valve stems to clean off some of the remaining contamination. That stuff is potent though. I used less than a can for the whole job. I have two left as I bought 3! You may want to wear a respiratory mask. Or at least limit exposure as I tried to. It evaporates off in pretty quick time but I mopped up with shop rags to get all the remaining sludge out. Need to remember not to work on intake ports that have valves open, rotated engine on 24mm crank bolt to alternate. I stuffed shop rags in everything I left open, like the other ports not being cleaned, injector holes, intake pipework. As I tend to drop screws and bolts and tools and one mistake makes a lot of dismantle time or worse, if you don't notice!!

http://www.injectorcleaning.co.uk/post.htm £108.95 incl. return special delivery. Did by mail order. They seem to have done a decent job, they use ASNU gear. Yes, they changed the Orings and the combustion chamber seal, which you are supposed to need a special tool for. The repair kits with seals and some other bits and pieces like the plastic 3 legged stand off that I broke are £12 a pack from VW (and you need 4no.)! What are the uprated units - Golf R / S3 units?

Update 1: The injectors didn't arrive until midday Sat, so pushed things back a little. Injectors all cleaned and passed all tests (leak down, resistance, spray pattern before 2 good 2 Fair, after 4 good). Re-assembled. Only broke 3 plastic bits in the job! 1 - a small release tab on one of the electrical connectors but it still click locks ok. 2 one of the nipples on the port dividers that fit into the holes on the inlet mani gasket. 3 - on leg on one of the plastic stand off stands for the injectors. After a fair bit of cranking and some key cycles / door opening closing it eventually fired up. Did an oil and filter change. All seems good now. Throttle control response under light throttle definitely improved. A road / motor way progress I did not notice a lot of difference tbh. I am hoping the cold start light throttle miss and rough idle will be gone. Will report back after a few mornings. Also hoping that the fuel economy might get back to levels of a year or two back. But to early to report at this stage.

I don't really know the answer. Without knowing the exact construction under the cills it will be test drill small pilots and then enlarge. Probably along centre line of top flat surface. You could try to remove door seals and see if there is any access pre existing but I doubt it.

Yes. As above responses. The port is std obd2 type port afaik. But the recess in the car is surrounded by plastic trim in close proximity around the perimeter and it is a very tight fit for most generic readers. May need to trim the reader...

Yes, you're right. either way it will fit within that tolerance as the tensioner would take it up anyway!

Yes. I am aware of the site it is based on the ETKA listings and schematics. The only thing I have found it is quite out of date with revisions, so you will not find the latest product suffix where there are recent revisions. But it is useful. Some after market catalogues are also very good. Bosch used to be decent but since the took it offline to "improve it" I can't find where the detail is any more. The 113 on the belt is the length in cm. and 6 pk means 6 ribs. Having checked, mine was a febi 28924 but there is heaps of cross compatibility, continental, gates et al....

I've replaced mine once. That ribbed belt profile sounds familiar. You should be right therer. Eurocarparts part lookups are not great. EBay only really good if you know the aftermarket or genuine part number. I often use a good aftermarket catalogue which often cross reference to genuine part numbers and sometimes other mfr equivalents...