Warrior193

Get the starter battery load tested - at simplest, measure the battery voltage at the terminals with a meter while engine is being cranked-over on the starter. Did the vehicle suffer an impact around the time of the breakdown? Could the SS message you saw have been something like SS not available?

Could the noise be from the clutch slipping - does the Tacho rise in sync with the noise? I assume the 'until late 2013' is a typo and you meant 2023?

Welcome to the forum. You really need to have the vehicle scanned for recorded DTCs. Apart from that, get the battery load tested and have the ABS wheel sensors checked. Failing battery or ABS sensors are prime suspects for generating multiple fault codes. For the GPS errors, have the antenna tested.

By 'the 3rd one' (when removing the suspect coil packs) do you mean cylinder 1? I.e. the cylinder at the timing belt end of the engine. What were the DTCs recorded that the breakdown tech found? Very possibly failed spark plug/s. Hopefully replacing the plugs will fix it - check very carefully that none of the tips of the old plugs have detached and fallen inside the cylinder.

Ignoring the higher (60hz) frequency, achieving the same wattage at effectively 50% lower voltage requires a substantial increase in amperage - poor connections, understandable when you consider the type of connectors they use, significantly raises the risk.

Possibly fewer electrocutions with 110V - but from memory, many more electrical fires due to significantly higher current in circuits.

Welcome to the forum. Are these hub-bolts 'handed' - I.e. LH thread on the left hubs?

They're there alright! Some are so badly positioned they confuse Mk1 eyeball, let alone camera recognition.

With the Tesla's at least, a lot of those seemingly spurious brake indications will be regen braking when driver is backing-off the throttle.

There is usually a date stamp on the top face of the battery negative terminal, particularly if the battery is original. Format is WW/YY - so March 2016 would be something like 10/16.

Certainly would recommend a proper battery load test being done.

Unless I'm misunderstanding your latest comment, it is very unsafe to attempt to fuel with the engine running! which would mean ignition should always be switched-off before fuelling.

The only objects in the fuel filler pipe are the anti-syphon device and the emissions filter on the breather vent - those are purely passive.

I used to wildfowl on Lake Onoke and the Ruamahanga back in the 60s-70s. Fond memories of warming frozen fingers on the barrels!🤣

Was that 'mass cable' a sensor connection - which one?

Just avoid The Windy City during winter - unless you truly like horizontal rain! 😀

@Element7 Did you finally get the brakes bled ok?

Usually corrosion and/or 'road gunk' build-up around the caliper piston seals - which also serve to retract the pistons slightly when brake pressure is released.

Have you noticed any increase in the time the engine takes to start, especially from a hot start?

Welcome to the forum. That engine stalling sounds a lot like a clutch 'bite point' issue - have you noticed there to be a significant difference from the original clutch in the point where the engine revs starts to drop when you start to lift the clutch pedal? Have you tried 'slipping' the clutch a little more when moving off from standstill?

Welcome to the forum. Has the battery been fully load tested? This should be the first thing to do. A failing battery is definitely a prime suspect for ACC, Park Pilot and SS errors - as are failing ABS wheel sensors. U112300 is a generic code for communication errors between control modules. If the battery definitely tests as fully functional, faulty wiring, connectors or failing sensors can cause this DTC. Have there been any modifications made, I.e. changed steering wheel, etc?

Kia Ora Julian, welcome to the forum. Beautiful place to be.

Assuming the vehicle had this supposed 'aftermarket' camera fitted before it was sold to you, the seller is responsible for any warranty faults - they can't just refuse any responsibility because they claim 'aftermarket' unless it was specifically excluded. The UK Sale of Goods Act applies - even though the seller may say 'now out of time' the fact you reported the fault to them while still under warranty should take precedence.

Reported sound is inaudible.

How about trying a straight length of stiff wire, bent into a right-angle at the end, to hook under the piece and lift it enough to pull it out?