Warrior193

Check your warranty exclusions and push hard for them to fix FOC if it clearly is not excluded.

Has the engine ever been run with low oil or coolant levels? Did the sudden onset of the noise coincide with any service work? Engine noise that you describe cannot be normal - did your Dealership advise against driving the vehicle until the cause of the noise was correctly diagnosed? Significant increase of noise under acceleration sounds more like bottom end (crank or connecting rods) to me.

A little unusual, but possible that slightly lower voltages could have been upsetting the oil level sensor. Much more common for TPMS and SS warnings when the battery is starting to struggle. Just monitor and see how it goes. Find yourself a reliable independent service garage.

Does the V5 document not give the correct drive system description?

On checking, my post appears to be complete BS - AI told me MIB3 intro date was Sept 2017! It possibly meant MIB2.5!

Just a note, I believe your Amundsen will be a MIB3.

@deryanmoj did you find a home for that connecter, did reconnecting it clear the faults?

I'd say that is clearly a stress crack and should be covered under the warranty.

Welcome to the forum. Does the lower part of the crack extend all the way to the bottom of the screen? Yes, stress cracks to screen can be caused by body flexing, or by incorrect fitting.

AFAIK, this is normal behaviour for the smart alternator, you will probably see higher SOC with longer trips where regenerative charging has more opportunity to top-up the charge. Sulphation is a normal, reversable process of the chemical reaction within lead acid cells, where small crystals of lead sulphate form on the cell electrodes (plates). When the cell SOC remains significantly below 75% for prolonged periods, the lead sulphate crystals become larger (hard sulphate) and resistant to being dissolved during charging, this then makes that part of the cell inactive. For a vehicle where shorter runs are common, occasional full recharges from an external smart charger will, in most cases, help extend the life of the battery by more fully dissolving the lead sulphate crystals before they grow to a size where they become insoluble.

Not a new issue either - My MY16 Octavia had both the battery and alternator replaced in the first year under warranty. The replacement Moll EFB has lasted well since then.

That sounds like an over sensitive traction control issue - but you imply there's no indication on the instrument cluster for that?

I use a Topdon battery tester and it appears to give a reasonable indication of my 10-year old EFB. I'm not convinced that VAG Smart Alternator strategy (75-80% max charge) is the ideal for best battery life on the majority of vehicles, particularly ones doing regular short trips. I like the idea of intelligent charging limiting the alternator to 75% SOC for longer runs, using regenerative to top up the remaining capacity, but my ideal would be for the charging algorithm to modify its program when logging regular short trips so that the battery is kept as close to 100% as possible.

@Nmh Did you get this fault resolved?

Hello, welcome to the forum. It sounds to me that you have an airlock in the coolant system. I'd suggest you check for any coolant bleeding procedure and try that.

Aren't skips usually painted yellow?

A DTC scan will identify which wheel if ABS sensor is causing the issue.

I'd be more than surprised if limp mode was activated without a DTC being generated! What fault light displays on the instrument cluster when this happens? What equipment are they using to check?

I'm rather surprised your 2015 Octavia has the battery SOC indication available, is yours early or late 2015? My 2015, MY16 just displays SOC--- and I understood the function was deleted around 2014.

Love the way the MG's parked - not!

A brief search on the net suggests the 3.6 EA390 engine is a particularly good one, with only a couple of known issues - early ignition coils and crank seal oil leaks on high milers. Said to be good for 400 K km. How is the suspension and gearshift?

Welcome to the forum, The rust along the top of the windshield looks very minor, probably from paint being polished away from roof edge - probably not too difficult to address reasonably. Not familiar at all with the 3.6 engine, but I'd think it would be good for another 100k Km at least, very common these days for smaller engines to do that sort of mileage - how does the asking price compare with similar vehicles?

A 'Stop-Start battery IS the main battery - it is simply an improved design and materials over standard, lead-acid batteries to allow for the added stresses of repeated start cycles. There are two types of stop-start batteries - EFB or AGM - yours is more likely to be EFB, but check first.

Not a lot of contact area there, try onto the body of the cable ferule, where the insulation meets the socket. Is the stamped part of the L-shaped metal bracket painted? If not, use that.

Take a search cruise through the forum, I'm sure I've seen some posts on removal of tailgate lining panel. I have a slight recollection that it requires good trim removal tools and a fair bit of force! - the C-pillar trims are bad enough, and I chickened-out with the A-pillar ones!