Warrior193

Check that the rubber seals aren't sticking to the hatch - my Mk3 trunk sometimes sticks shut in hot weather, when it does this, it feels like it hasn't unlocked but a heaver pull breaks the seal. Try a rubber seal conditioner like Gummi Pflege (cannot swear on spelling for second word) Other seal conditioners are available.

^^^ With genuine, all-weather 300+ mile range.

On some vehicles, it can be quite frightening to feel just much more foot pressure is required if the brake servo fails. Part of the problem is your leg muscles become totally accustomed to the assistance provided. It can be very educational to do a test somewhere totally safe and at low speed, switch off the engine, deplete the reserve vacuum, then try to stop!

Fix the Lambda issue first, then investigate further for the coolant loss.

According to Rosstech Wiki, P0030 indicates a problem with the Lambda sensor - Open circuit Bank 1, Sensor 1. This will certainly cause fuelling issues - but I'd expect the ECU would overfuel, which would cause black smoke! The cause of that DTC could be something as simple as a broken wire at the sensor connection. I'd stick with your white smoke being coolant getting burnt.

If I recall correctly, white smoke from a diesel indicates burnt coolant - although I'd expect more than 0.5 litres being used if the smoke is as heavy as you indicate. Have the coolant tested for combustion products and locate source of loss. Was the engine losing coolant before the turbo was replaced? If not, possible that your garage has created a leak in its cooling circuit and then repeated mistake. Did the turbo replacement fix the oil use issue?

Or possibly Bewick's Swan.

Is the engine actually losing coolant? If so, how much? Could be faulty head gasket or cracked head - has the engine been overheated? Have the remaining coolant tested for combustion products and have the cooling system pressure tested.

If you are using a smart charger, you may have an issue triggering the charger if the battery voltage is very low (below about 8 volts) . There may be a note in your charger instructions on how to overcome this.

A thing that puzzles me is why are you trying to defeat the anti-syphon device while filling the tank? it's not necessary - the clue is in the name, it only there to prevent fuel being drained via the filler.

I'd vote for too much mayo, even allowing for regular short trips.

Did they confirm that the DSG filter screen was cleaned?

That tends to suggest that the oil spill she noticed in the car park isn't from yours.

Certainly on the Mk3, the engine power cuts-out if the brake pedal is pressed while throttle is open - accompanied by a message on the infotainment screen.

Place a weighted piece of clean cardboard under the engine the next time it's parked up at home.

Is there any sign of oil leaking from the bottom of the clutch bellhousing?

'The curse' is where as soon you mention an item to be trouble-free, it fails - AKA Sods Law. ☹️

Ask the guy who is claiming probable damage how much oil was recovered when he originally drained the box. Sudden failure is very unlikely unless the gearbox has been making loud and unusual noises for a considerable time, or has been throwing out of gear under acceleration/decelleration.

Definitely get a second opinion! Where is the oil leaking from - engine or gearbox? How or where were you checking oil level? Are there any symptoms from the gearbox at present?

There's nothing serviceable on the AC compressor, apart from actually checking the refrigerant charge - This'll probably trigger 'The Curse', but my 11-year old system is still operating correctly and has never been touched.

Did the AC technician identify (and repair) the refrigerant leak?

I've not worked on a drive hub for a very long time, but yes, with the caliper and everything else off the hub, I would expect it to pull off over the driveshaft splines. Take care with the CV joints.

In my silly youth days I fitted tapered rollers on my rally car build, they used a spacer between the inner and outer races - so they weren't adjustable in the usual sense, adjustment required machining of the spacer.

Just curious - are these wheel bearings tapered rollers - or a type of deep row ball bearing?

I'd be very surprised if the tail lights were different between Combi trim levels of the same model.