Warrior193

Very odd that the SS is still working, but strongly suggest a proper load test on the battery.

@Alasdair1 How did the MOT go, did the tester give an advisory on the rear wiper?

I'd suggest just topping-up the tank with premium diesel and possibly consider an early change of the fuel filter.

I presume you mean the glow plugs on the Merc?

Wow, nearly 20k a year!

Sump oil pickup or pump issues would also cause oil pressure problems and probable damage to engine bearings.

If the turbo bearings have been starved of lubricating oil, they will almost certainly be shot.

Best idea would be to get it properly diagnosed - if failing turbo is the cause (very likely) fitting a rebuilt unit would be my suggestion. What is the mileage on the Odo?

Beware, engine ingesting significant quantities of lubricating oil via a failing turbo can sometimes cause a diesel engine to run out of control.

Welcome to the forum. Turbo seals and bearings being 'toast' are most likely reason. Amber oil light should be telling you that engine oil level is low.

The problem with wiring is that copper will work-harden after a lot of flexing - this causes the conductor to lose flexibility and fracture inside the insulation. The answer is to use many more, thinner strands to make up the conductor.

What is the description of that part you showed?

To clarify - was the connector you removed for testing the one on the Shark Fin (GPS) or the one for the DAB antenna on the side window?

Not a great idea to consider skipping due services.

Your question about the TPMS depends on whether you have indirect or direct system. More likely you have indirect system - which uses data from the ABS wheel sensors and is not affected by changes in wheel sizes, provided all wheels are same size. Does your TPMS display actual tyre pressures - or simply flag pressure loss?

Very possibly affected by screen replacement if the rain sensor behind the RV mirror was damaged.

Wipers won't work on any setting if the hood is open.

Fixed that for you. 😁

Welcome to the forum. Isn't it a bit pointless fitting one of those into an airbox?

In the other posts I have seen for this fault, it appears that a faulty wiper stalk was the cause. If the stalk was in the 'Auto-wipe' position rather than Off when this happens, the cause can be a dirty screen around the rain sensor behind the RV mirror.

Welcome to the forum. The two messages are simply showing the reason why Stop/Start (idle stop) is being inhibited - not for A/C errors. You will need to get any fault codes (DTCs) read to find why your A/C is not performing correctly - it may be short of refrigerant. Do you get any cooling at all? Do you get the usual quantity of air-flow through the vents? When was the cabin (pollen) filter last replaced?

From the little I have been able to see online, there should be a release tab on the exposed end of the jack, beneath the metal cable crimp - that needs to be pressed-in to allow the jack to release. That might be just below the 'whitish' section shown in your 2nd and 3rd images.

Looking at the poor filler job in image 1, plus the rust appearing in the others, my guess would be that the repair was nothing much more than a DIY Bondo [tm] and a 'blow-over' paint job. A quick online search suggests a proper rear quarter panel replacement can run to £3k or more - is the Stealer prepared to do that?

In that first image, I'd say that has had body filler used on it - and very poorly done too! I'd seriously consider rejection.

No reputable A/C technician would (should) simply recharge a system without checking for refrigerant leak first as that is illegal in UK.