Warrior193

Hi - you do realise that you can turn off the auto-dim on the rear-view mirror, or do you mean that it's too dark even with it switched off?

Hi, I feel for you, if you are anywhere near South-West London I can give a high recommendation for a firm called Kindertons near Hampton Court.

I believe my engine and battery covers on Fleabay were from VAG China.

Very very bad idea!- disconnecting the battery while the engine's running can cause a voltage spike which can destroy the alternator rectifier diodes - you appear to have been very lucky that this didn't happen.

Cue sharp intake of breath. Tsk, tsk.

That's the main reason I get my servicing done at an independent now.

Hi Booky, take a look at postings about suspension bushes - or engine/gearbox mounts.

Hi Booky, welcome to the forum, very disappointing - but not surprising given some of the stories heard from other members. Is there no level too low for some so-called service departments to sink?

+1^^^^. Is an Octavia really too small for you?

Good luck.

Print out an official page from VAG engine spec sheet and slap it on the franchise-managers desk.

I'm convinced that Skoda Australia is being evasive at best! A google search tells me that the EA888, CHHB engine is actually a Audi design! - and is fitted right across the VAG range. Apparently two versions - CHHA (DCT only) and CHHB (M6 or DCT)

Tried it just now on my Octavia - the indicator lights for both buttons flash alternately during the test. I do not know what indication is given (apart from, perhaps a scan result) if any fault is found during this test.

I did a search on the web and found a few clips on Youtube - try this flap test/reset - Turn on ignition, wait until a few seconds until Climatronic is running, press and hold both the AC on button and the button that indicates 'face-level' air flow. The flap actuators will run through a full movement operation for about 30-40 seconds then Climatronic will return to normal operation. I'm just going out to my car to test this.

Hi Adam, a member called 'SKODAVIA' made a posting on Oct 27 with a reference to a 'heater flap reset' - I couldn't find any details of this reset in a quick search, but it is probably worth following up.

I can see a definite crease in the roof line just in front of the C pillar on the rear passenger side.

Hi Adam, by that I assume you mean it sounds like the fan is still running at set speed when air-flow reduces, if so you may have to get a fault scan on the flap actuators - or have you already done that?

Hi Adam, is the fan speed set to auto? This will cause the fan speed to vary according to ventilation requirements. The light in upper section of the fan speed knob illuminates when on auto.

Hi Tim, sounds to me that Skoda Australia might be telling porkies - my understanding is that the engines are actually the same across VAG (as long as the engine code matches) Does your VRS have an engine ID code (4 letters) on the label in the trunk?

Bad luck there - even for a 19 plate I cannot see that as being an 'economic repair' I think I can see a crease in the roofline above the rear nearside passengers door too. God knows what the left chassis rail looks like.

I suspect this decline is connected to significantly better fuel economy / longer range of modern vehicles.

Carb? Surly fuel-injected, no carburettor!

Hi Urban, if the cylinders had coolant in them I'd strongly recommend a full oil-change and new filter - coolant will almost certainly have got into the sump.

Hi Kev, take a look at Fuchs Titan range of 5W30s

It is critical that you should only exert any insertion force against the OUTER part of the ball-race when installing - a good tip is to use an old, discarded ball-race of the same size as a mandrel. Hammering- n a bearing on the inner race will almost certainly result in "dimpling" the bearing faces - or destroying the bearing completely.