thamestrader

+++UPDATE+++ Having saved TPMS setting for Primary and Guest the TPMS screen no longer pops up when starting the KAroq.

Just like to say 'thanks' to everyone who has posted hints and tips. I've just fitted front and rear mudflaps. Both backs only took 30 minutes, I lubricated the centre pin of the expanding rivet with silicon grease it makes all the difference. I did remove the front wheels just to give my self room to drill the holes, as I didn't want to risk the drill wandering of course. I slid a plastic trim removal tool in behind the upper rivet hole to brace the wheelarch liner when pushing the rivet centre pin in. I concur with comment that 'the mudflaps really suit the Karoq' .

VW Golf or T-Roc, both smaller inside and out than the Karoq. I suspect with your required options list it would have to be a factory order. Are you bothered by the VED rates that kick in when the list price goes over £40,000. If you were buying a 1.5 DSG SE L Karoq today that list of options would take the list price over the £40K, with VED rates of £1095 first year and £600 per year for years 2 through 6.

I've not had my Karoq long, yesterday was the first time I had to use the windscreen wipers. The blades were noisy and not flipping over as they normally do and when I removed the blades I could see that they rubber had 'set' to one side , probably as a result of being sat in the sun with little use (its 6 months old and only done 1100 miles when I bought it) . The rubbers are removeable, the plastic end cap unclips and then the rubber can be removed. I turned the rubber round and reinserted it, hey presto the wipers are working silently and flipping over at the end of each stroke. I suppose this means it might be possible to buy just the rubber insert rather than the whole blade, when they wear. It should be cheaper and also better environmentally as well as there is less waste.

I have now established what there 'non-warranty repairs were. This was a an oil and filter change service when the car was sold/transferred to the dealer I bought it from. The service indicator must have been reset on that date as it fits with the number of days to next service.

@logiclee Thanks for you information, I think it has enabled me to solve the problem. I started the Karoq and instead of press OK as Primary User I selected Change User to Guest, the TPMS Set pressures screen was displayed so I pressed SET and then Confirm - Tyre Pressures Saved. Switched off and then switched on again and changed back to Primary user. No TPMS screen displayed, drove somewhere stopped switched off , got out locked car. Came back started car no TPMS screen displayed , drove back home parked and locked car. Left the car 2 hours then started it and no TPMS screen displayed. I mentioned in one of my replies above that this happened most times but not everytime I started the Karoq. I think I may have worked out what it is. Sometimes when I started the car I would press OK to the Primary User profile most times though I just drove away, I assumed it had automatically accepted the OK for the profile. now I think it didn't have a Profile loaded and wanted the Tyre pressures set. I suspect that on the few occasions when I pressed OK the TPMS screen was not displayed because I had previously successfully stored tyre pressures. My current theory is that TYPMS tyre pressure data needs to be saved for both Primary User and the Guest user, and if you dont OK Primary and dont change to Guest you will be asked to provide TPMS tyre pressures because to continue driving without providing that information would mean the TPMS couldn't function correctly. I will verify this over the next few days.

Interesting. I have set up and account, I am primary user, I can access the car remotely using the Skoda Connect App. However despite setting up an S-PIN it doesn't remember and repeatedly asks me to set up an S-PIN again, which I do. SO perhaps my account is not not correctly linked. It did take many attempts to get it set up. I will try deleting myself and starting again.

On a different car (Mitsubishi) I had exactly the same thing, and its quite alarming when a car speeds up after releasing the throttle. Mine was also a very high mileage vehicle, 160,00 miles or 256,000 kms. owned by me from new and always maintained correctly. The cause was a worn throttle body spindle. The spindle is what the butterfly valve is fitted to that regulates the amount of air going into the engine and thus the RPM. The various sensors on the engine are set to provide the correct amount of fuel and ignition timing for the position of the butterfly valve. With a worn spindle the butterfly valve no longer moves as expected by the driver and the engine sensors behave according to the actual butterfly valve position and not position intended by the driver. In my car the RPM was unpredictable sometimes it increased other times it didn't - very alarming in slow moving traffic as it could randomly increase by itself without any input from the driver! This might be what is affecting your high mileage FAbia.

Thanks for the replies - as far as I can tell I'm doing the same as you folk as I'm getting the Tyre Pressures saved message. Its almost as though it forgets that the pressures have been saved when the car is started after being parked. I will have to monitor to see if this only happens overnight or after a certain time as its not consistently after everytime the car has been locked.

Having collected my Karoq last Friday, I've noticed that everytime I start it up the TPMS system is asking me to SET the Tyre Pressures, so I touch the SET button and then the Confirm. But it asks me again the next time I start the car. I've checked all the pressures and they are 2.4 Bar on all 4 wheels. We have the same system on our 2015 Fabia and that does not behave in this way. Any thoughts or suggestions gratefully received.

I previously had a VW Touran with a similar storage box. Its possible that they are both fixed in a similar way. The Touran's box was secured by two screws at the opening edge, this released it but the hinges at the back sort of clipped under the dashboard, so it was a case of prizing the box up at the end where the screws were using plastic car trims tools and then wriggling the box to get the hinge edge free.

The Digital Certificate could be very interesting, for example I found this information on the used Karoq I have just purchased. ATTACHMENTS LIST OF AUTHORIZED NON-WARRANTY REPAIRS For more information please contact your service partner. RECORDED MILEAGE: 677 MI DATE: 26/03/2024 From other sources I know that the original owner was Skoda UK, reg'd Sep 23, from DVLA Vehicle Check I know that the Road Tax was cancelled on 26/3/24 (presumably when transferred to the dealer). When I test drove it on April 12th it had 1090 recorded miles. I have yet to discover what the 'non-warranty repairs' were.

I bought the NextBase OBD hardwire kit from Halfords, it’s £25, but £19.99 online from NextBase. The cable comes out of the side of the connector that pushes onto the OBD port. If you wanted to use m OBD scanner the dashcam power lead would have to be disconnected.

For what its worth here is how I got on with the providing power to my Next Base Dashcam. I intended to use one of the NextBase hardwire kits - either Piggy Back into fuse box or the OBD port. Initially I went down the fusebox route; finally getting the glovebox off to get access to the fusebox, partially removing the side panel with the Airbag switch in it. I decided to go with the OBD power lead for the following reasons; the routing for the lead to the Dashcam is the same for both (up behind the 'A' pillar, along the top of the screen behind the headlining, but access on the drivers side where the OBD port is is much better and also doesn't require messing with the side panel with the Airbag switch, additionally the OBD port kit doesn't require finding and earthing point. Under the steering column there is a mini glovebox this is easily removed and provides access behind and above the OBD port - I left some slack on the lead from the OBD port so that the inline fuse was accessible by removing the mini glovebox. A note about removing and refitting the side panel - one side is fitted behind the rubber door seal, the other curved side has 4 or 5 clips that push into the dashboard. Removing is simply a matter of prizing the clips out and then sliding the panel up 10 mm before lifting it out from behind the rubber door seal. Refitting wasn't quite as easy I ended up getting all the clips lined up with their respective holes, pushing them in with the other side sitting on the rubber seal, then using a plastic trim tool the rubber seal i eased over the edge of the side panel. Putting the side under the rubber seal first seemed to prevent the clips from aligning with the holes.

The 6 month old Sportline I have just bought, which had a build date of May 23, PDI date on August 23 and a first reg date of Sept 23 had the same items; the cargo net pack contained 3 nets, two for the sides and one that seems to fit across the front of the boot behind the rear seat backs. I have all three installed but I think the boot interior fittings have changed over the years and it was quite a struggle to work out how to fix the nets. Side nets have hooks at each bottom corner that attached to metal rings at the sides under the boot floor (so far all good), the rearmost top corner has a stretchy cord that attaches to a plastic hook on the side trim panel, now its gets tricky, I couldn't find an attachment for the stretchy cord at the forward top corner. I ended up lifting the parcel shelf out and looping it over the round mount for the parcel shelf. On all the images I found showed a hook on the side trim panel like at the rear, but there was nothing like that in my Karoq. The longer cross net had clips on the bottoem corners that hooked onto the metal hoops below the boot floor - same as the side nets. The top corner cords I attached in the same way as the side nets to the parcel shelf mounting. As I am writing this post it has dawned on me that the longer cross net might have been intended to be fitted across the back of the boot in which case the cords could have been hooked onto the plastic hooks in each side panel. Although in this position it obstructs access to the boot