thamestrader

I think the 24/74 plate Sportlines had TSR and Lane Assist as std, the ability to alter the soundaktor engine sound setup, compared to the 23/73 plate Sportlines. Otherwise same as 23/73 year.

That could be an important consideration, as I think the Matrix version requires a complete sealed unit in the event of a failure not a simple bulb replacement.

My Sportline has the Matrix LED headlights with auto dip/main. I’ve compared them to the photos and it’s very difficult to be sure which one they match, so I’ve not indicated in case I got it wrong. If you are buying from a Skoda dealer they should be able to provide the precise spec, it’s on the Skoda systems, I’ve seen it with our other Skoda. Also there is a chat feature on the Skoda website and they can take a vin of reg number and provide the spec. Matrix LEF and auto dip/main is well worth having.

Helicoil can last a very long time, the sump plug on my 1983 Metro was helicoiled in the late 1990s it’s still doing its job today and oil tight. Just don’t over tighten.

Coolant should have antifreeze in and would normally be distinguishable from plain water. One of the drawbacks with the engine undertrays is that they can delay the detection of leaks because the liquid remains on the undertray until the car drives away or the liquid drips from the lowest point of the tray which could be a long way from the source. It might be worth dropping the undertray to see if it reveals anything.

It could be an oil cooler, fitted to the oil filter.

From what I’ve read on this sub forum the DSG does nt seem to be affected, you may need to study the whole thread. Also search for kangeroo on the T Roc vs forum. This problem affects multiple VAG models, not just Skodas.

I would try HazzyDayz in Markyate, J9 of the M1. Realise it’s a bit of a journey from Oxfordshire, but they may be able to help.

@oldstan I’d suggest parking your Yeti next to a Karoq. When my brother parked his Yeti next to my Karoq we were both surprised that the Karoq was lower! His Yeti has removable back seats my Sportline does not potentially more usable space in Yeti, need to choose Vari Flex seating for Karoq if that’s important. Yeti boot space is much squarer although Karoq is bigger the curves may reduce the usability, ie tailgate curves across the back and is slopes down.

I am an avid CAR SOS watcher they often have to repair cranks and bottom end bearings. Fuzz Townsend removes the sump, the sludge in the sump can reveal if the crank bearings have worn away. That might be possible without engine removal. Fingers crossed it’s repairable. Where in the country are you? There is a well respected independent VAG garage in Nottingham C&R it’s run by one of the Admins on the VW and Briskoda Forums, I’ve not used them personally though, but I’ve had very good advice from him thru the forums.

I’m guessing that “batten bearings” could be bottom bearings or big end bearings - the bearings on the crank shaft that the connecting rods from the pistons are attached to. What is the engine oil level like, if it’s been run with low oil or low oil pressure that could cause bearing wear over time. It might be possible to have the oil analysed if it contains significant levels of white metal bearing material that would support the initial diagnosis. When you say regular servicing is that annually so it’s had 6 oil changes or is it flexible which could fewer if the latter it might be a factor.

@mumpsim your Italian tune up solution is interesting. Do you use standard unleaded or one of the super unleadeds like Shell V power of BP Ultimate, which contain additives so they burn cleaner.

@Ootohere My Touran was the 2.0 L TDI with 6 speed DQ250, I had the DSG oil and filter changed at 36,000, 72,000, and 100,000 miles slightly earlier than required. Gearbox was as smooth at 108,000 as when new. .

I had CC on my previous DSG Touran and used it all the time, we have Limiter only on our Fabia - I rarely used the limiter. My Karoq has Cruise and Limiter, I find I’m using the limiter in preface to the Cruise. Possibly I’m choosing the best tool for the conditions….. I am finding the Limiter more flexible than Cruise on cross country A and B roads, possibly more economical as it allows Coasting to activate. Whilst I never felt a lack of control with Cruise with the Limiter one is always “driving”. What do others think.

I tend to run my cars up to around 150,000 miles, my last 5 cars did 108,000, 162,000, 153,000, 142,000 and 110,000. The 108,000 one was a 2013 DSG diesel Touran, I had no issues with the DSG. 30 years ago a 5 year old car could have rust issues, but that is no longer a problem. With all my last 5 cars I found around the 100,000 miles some mechanical parts, brake discs, suspension mountings would need replacement just due to wear. Once replaced they were fine. I didn’t have any engine or gearbox issues with any of the cars. One had a new clutch at 102,000 due to a weak spring. So as others have said look very closely at the service history, only consider ones with fixed annual 12 monthly services, avoid any that were on variable service intervals. These will have had fewer oil and filter changes this tends to cause problems as the vehicle ages. Unless you will be doing weekly 50 mile journeys avoid the diesels. I am a fan of the DSG gearbox, but reversing uphill slowly takes a bit of practice! I advise have as long a test drive as possible and carry out parking manoeuvre’s, especially on a slope. Also try and get a test drive in a new one too so you have a benchmark against which to compare any used one you drive. You will see on this forum that many people remark/complain about the ride with 19” wheels so look carefully at the wheel and size of tyres fitted. Good luck.

I’m still trying to fully understand this coasting mode. Yesterday I did a120 mile round trip with a 20 minute stop before returning. On the outbound part coasting kicked almost everytime I eased off on the throttle, e.g. when approaching slower vehicle in front or for a bend. On the return coasting wouldn’t engage for about 20 miles and then starting working as I’d expect. I’d like to understand what it is that affects whether it engages. I think it has something to do with the current throttle position and a gradual lift.

That is the way to do it, but it’s a knack! I think it’s a case of touching and swiping at the same time, more like dragging. I know I’ve done it eventually!

Even MY23 is partially locked down. I had a Skoda electric swivelling towbar fitted, Skoda HQ had to be contacted for an additional code as the code supplied with the towbar didn’t work. Also I wanted to retro fit TSR, my car has all the right components, the retrofit company had all the coding data, but were unable to access the relevant section of the CANBUS using their tools. Skoda/VAG won’t even supply the unlock code to allow it to be done. I understand the need to protect the software from malicious hackers, I understand the need to protect their intellectual property (the software coding), but you’d think they would have a mechanism where owners can purchase the canbus coding to implement an additional feature. Even if the price was the same as when the feature is specified for a new car order.

I and my brother both experience what we call Skoda seat thigh ache, the cure was very cheap and simple - remove all items from back trouser pockets!

From the various responses I get the impression that the “coasting” implementation differs between models and years, as people’s experiences are different. In my 2023 2.0 TSI coasting only results in a speed increase on definite slope, it can occur in normal or Eco modes but only from very low rpm. If I am accelerating and lift off it won’t coast.

Check breakers for seats and switches for central console. We have a 2015 Mk 3 Fabia SE without heated seats, sister in law has 2017 Mk3 Fabia SE with heated seats. Interiors are otherwise identical so could be a straight swap with some VCDS coding.

A further thought, would ESC attempt to negate the effects of torque steer?

Sounds like a suspension issue, possibly tracking or even incorrect tyre pressure. If it’s only a month old get the dealer to look at it.

I’ve had Goodyear Vector All Seasons on a previous 2wd (front) and the grip in snow, slush and ice was very good. About 10 years ago I saw a tyre test video on an indoor ski slope, the All Season shod front wheel drive got further than the summer tyre shod 4x4 version of the same car. That convinced me of the merit of All Season tyres.

Is it possible that the battery hasn't been coded to the car, that can produce some odd errors.