ScoutCJB

So thats a no then And that is a nice colour

I would have expected a dash warning, mine always used to. Battery life as James points out above varies a lot - 1 battery i put in lasted a little over 2 months. I also found that I would get issues starting the car and have to hold fob near button about a week before then getting the dash message. Go for the CR2032, its a little fiddly but it does go in and go for a Duracell.

If you mean would an Oct 2 bar fit an Oct 3, no.

So swapping bulbs/ballasts around you got a partial result. I'd look at the wiring and look for a bad earth or partially broken wire locally external to the light and check the connector. Its been a while since i had my Oct 2 but the lights come out easily, if the plugs are the same you could swap the entire headlights over to test. Just remember those ballasts run at a high voltage (definitely at start up) so don't tinker when the lights are on!

Have you got VCDS? You could disable city mode. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/459701-afs-city-mode-disable/ Additionally bottom left of the manual screen dump 'Note' says selecting eco driving mode turns off AFS - have you tried this?

Youve said the Xenon lamps needed replacing in 1 post, then later said it was the Xenon bulbs in another post. I took lamps to be physical headlight units but I think you actually meant bulbs. So all that was replaced was the bulbs, nothing else? If thats the case they shouldn't have needed re aligning at all as the bulbs are held in place and there is no physical movement of the bulb. If the lamps perform the start up test correctly and both lights do the same action at the same time i'd struggle to see why it then sticks when driving - or is one lamp quicker than the other? As Langers2k says you would get a dash warning if there were issues and they would go into fault mode where the lights essentially point to the floor - that happened on my Oct 2 when moisture got into the levelling sensor plug. What happens if you set headlights manually instead of Auto on the switch as Varaderoguy states - I think this turns the lighting feature off.

Xenon bulbs do have a form of shelf life in that they go through a colour shift after a certain amount of usage and they will appear to be more blueish - that blueish tinge translates into less light on the road. Do you know if you also had new bulbs when you had new lights? To a degree you can get buildup on the parabolic lens that makes it look misted and any chips / hazing on the lights would decrease light output dependant on how bad it was.

Ah, you said Xenon bulbs in your other post hence why i wondered why it would need aligning. If it went into Skoda they should have done the alignment correctly but you never know. Out of curiosity why was it replaced and which one/s.

Why did you have to have the aim re-aligned? There shouldn't be any issue really at all. Additionally i thought the headlights have to be set up using software (maybe possible with VCDS) as the lights have to be put into some sort of programming mode before being adjusted - is this how they were done? As the issue has been going on for a while would you say its getting worse? Wondering if the motor that drives the projector lens is duff

Posted the wrong pic so changed it

double post - sorry

Borrowed from online 2015 manual

The headlights have a series of modes - At certain speeds (i dont know the threshold) for town driving headlight aim changes to illuminate the sides of the road more. Additionally at motorway speed the beams adjust up slightly to illuminate the road ahead more Langers2K is suggesting that one light may be stuck in city mode so its purposely illuminating the side of the road more and the controller may need flashing / update. Its a good theory. Do the lights self test properly when switched on - ie they go up down / left right?

Grantown on Spey, Newcastle, Leeds, Manchester, Plymouth - It was equally crap everywhere. Mine was an Amundsen unit. On the move I'd be lucky if it lasted 5-6 mins before dropping out. Must have been luck of the draw. I'm not a massive radio fan so wasn't an issue.

I just thought the DAB in the Octavia was crap full stop regardless of any plug in ancillaries. MY 2016 Scout had DAB and it was so poor I actually gave up and used FM instead. I did fit a dash cam with piggy back fuse but after about 6 months of ownership, the DAB was crap from day one.

Whilst not advised on MOT my old Scout had a misting shock for nearly 2 years with no issues, it did eventually give up the ghost I'd have guessed at warranty only replacing one, but I would have paid and had other side done as well at same time. No way I'd drive a car with different aged shocks. I've tried arguing with warranty before and got no where. Assume this is same brand as other side that was replaced under warranty?

Flickering when on the move or do they also do it while stationary? What does the dash error say?

Forgetting the wipers for a moment, I doubt someone coded the interior lights on just the 'door open setting'. I'd be thinking more along the lines of a switch issue. Which garage did it go to for diags?

Do any of the interior lights works at all by switching to manual

Hmm - - I could understand that the wipers may not work on auto assuming that you can change that with VAGCOM / VCDS etc - the interior light however I would be at a loss. Sure thats not a damaged wire / blown bulb / broken switch? Assuming its off a forecourt (not private) you want the garage to pay ultimately. On the other hand there are enough people on here who have VAGCOM / VCDS etc who, assuming that the garage's finding are correct, would rectify for beer tokens or some pocket money. I'd do it for nowt but I'm no where near. The question I would ask myself is if someones disabled auto wipers, what else have they done.

+1 - They will actually be dimmer.

So where do you actually stand on the insurance then - If the car was 'total loss' do they pay out based on a standard VRS or do they 'pay a little more/premium' based on a list of modifications provided at time of insurance/renewal. Or is it the case that you provide a list of mods that have been done and thats accepted whereas other insurers wont cover or payout if any mods have been done?

Yes the Oct 3 speakers are shocking, even the standard setup in the Oct 2 is better. Have a look at this https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/457076-adding-an-aftermarket-sound-system-keeping-the-original-radio/?tab=comments#comment-5136331

Also check inside the multiplug if its damp or has green corrosion build up on the plugs as I had an issue on my Oct 2 Xenons and water in plug was the issue.

My old 2010 Scout was from a rural area up north near the coast. I was aware of unusually high levels of corrsion when I purchased but 2 years on it looked pretty much the same other than a snapped spring. That is awful. More critically how many miles have you done since purchase - that may give leverage on the situation if its low