Prezafab

Changing the subject, what do ex Yeti owners think of the Karoq ?

If you pop the cap out, the part number should be on the back of they are the originals, or you could upgrade to the newer black and silver logo ones ?

Holed radiator ?

I bought a 1.2 TSi dsg Fabia (105) for my Elderly mum last year because we had had the previous Yetis, and drove it the 150 miles home for her. The engineering team did a great job of matching the turbo / torque delivery to the gearbox programming (which gear when and how quickly). Quiet, easy-going, economical, perky feeling.

... And it will still have the touchscreen user interface that is getting roundly lambasted / slagged off.

No love for the Karoq then ?

Our much loved 2015 TDI 4x4 DSG has just turned 99,000m. I've looked at the (still hilarious) price of final 2017 model Yeti DSGs (4x4 not critical to us now) and I'm now thinking that a 1.5 Karoq DSG is better value used ? Younger Karoqs with similar mileage are the same money. Thoughts ?

That price was at a Skoda garage who had a fixed price deal in Oct 2022.

The 1.2 uses a different dsg auto to the ones with 4x4. There used to be a debate if the 1.2 one was sealed for life or not, because the 4x4 one has a gearbox oil and filter change every 40,000 miles. I would wait for those with the latest view to reply, or call a Skoda dealer and ask ? For info, our 4x4 dsg oil change was about £250, but we've found a good local garage since that would be cheaper next time.

Just the cam chain rattle really on models before they switched to a cambelt, like yours. We had an oil seal re-done under warranty (can't remember which). Other than keeping an eye on the DSG, its pretty simple and reliable as a 1.2. We've had 3 x 1.2s, 3 x TDis and a 1.8 petrol over the years. I've gone back and checked my records and I have 42mpg as our average on the 1.2s, but how long is a piece of string ? Someone is bound to come on and swear blind that they regularly get 55mpg...!

Was the wobbling at idle all in your imagination ?😃 Glad it's sorted - budget for (the right) front shocks and springs next year !

Why do you think I was asking !?!

I would fill it right up, then reset the trip meter to 0 when you set off for your trip. See what the maxidot says when you get there (which often over-reads, ironically by up to 10%!). When you get home after the get together, see what the maxidot says. Then fill right up after your 250 miles, divide your litres filled by 4.5 and work out your true mpg over the round trip.

I wouldn't have thought it would be more than 10% if faulty, but closer to 5% overall, because it's not as though it's a 4x4 system with a permanent 50-50 torque split. It's only giving a bit of 4wd for part of the time unless you are regularly on muddy tracks or loose surfaces. I would stick with a 5% difference.

Did they replace the Haldex clutch - what does it say on the invoice. I had an Octavia 4x4 where there were no warning lights but it wasn't 'what it was' on traction , and often fe!t a bit odd. It has had all the correct Skoda servicing, but I sold it before I got to the bottom of it. It will definitely feel more planted if 4wd is cutting in correctly.

Ok thanks. Maybe I will have to convince her on something else !

Keith We are in the other situation of having the older RNS310(/5?) With Sat Nav in our 2015 Yeti. They have stopped doing SD card updates but my other half wants a 'standard sat nav' in her car. I'm not sure if your Amundsen is still updateable or what's needed to code and fit it into a 2015 Yeti, but I'd definitely look into it if you are minded to get rid of it!

Looks very tidy in the advert photos - nice dark grey colour.

Late, lower mileage models are still attracting high price. Just today my other half's daughter paid a visit. Good spec 2017 1.2 Auto now with 35,000m. Paid £11995 used 3 years ago, was offered £13k last week by the Skoda dealer, while in for a service.

3 owners in the last 3 years - it's not an L&K model is it ...?

On your last point... I know from personal experience that the air conditioning is critical on some EVs and plug-in hybrids. In my car, the air conditioning compressor was known for failing (fitted cost £2500+), which meant that the batteries weren't cooled, so the car would shut the ev and charging side down, and in some cases immobilise the car. The issue was the type and degradation of the compressor oil, and is still not resolved after several years - several owners are on their 3rd compressor - mostly at their own cost. Even with proper flushing at dealers, it still happens. I had a £99 dealer aircon service just as an insurance policy to stop the dealer wriggling out of the official extended warranty (in case I hadn't had a 'recommended service')!

Or sell as-is privately if you love your Yeti, and want to keep it for the next 5 years?

<< Thinking about my last post. Is a lot of the Yeti problem caused by the body shell/ roof flexing over time, so the seals and channels are fractionally moved out of line ? Is that why the dealer fix is to junk the lot and put a new cassette on?

Other than using a garage or a thick car cover, I don't know what you can do - unless as I asked, can it be 'welded shut' ? We once had a brand new Volkswagen Eos with a folding metal roof. Within 1000 miles someone ran into the back of it. The damage was quite light, but it was enough to have knocked seals or drainage channels ever so slightly out of the line. The car was then plagued with really awful condensation for the year we had it - which we never had in our previous Eos.

I would pay £50 at a respectable garage that is local to you instead to check for leaks and refill. I had our 7 year old Volvo done at the dealer this year for £99, but this was only because we had an extend warranty and the compressor can fail. With no warranty I would use someone locally who knows what theyre doing.