JackySi

I get ODB error for subwoofer wires now and then, (I wired another AMP to channel) which is detected for both wires. So the AMP has 2 channels for subwoofer. So they're not joined. Its 2x 8 Ohm. Period. P.S.: These wires are then wired to new AMP 1 set of cables = LEFT and another set = RIGHT. It works but every idk 10 car starts I need to reset ODB errors to get sub channel working again. Annoying as hell. But sound is really good and to be honest It doesn't feel much worse than Volvo's top of the line Bowers & Wilkins. Don't get me wrong, it's not as good, but it's not faaar off. The price difference doesn't justify the quality difference.

In MK3 the Sub is 8 ohm total independence. 4 ohm per coil...

I was at the largest BMW dealer in Slovenia last week and I was told their "old style automatic"'s don't require OIL changes at all. Permanent sealed transmission they say. I say that's *******s, but trust me if they can say that, DSG isn't much different... Gear shifts in DSG are soo fast that the gear box rarely gets hot, while hydraulic coupling like torque converter is constantly heating up/cooling down oil. I just think 40K miles (60k KM) just just "recommendation" for max life time of all these gearboxes. For manufacturer it's much easier to blame people for premature wear (MANUAL) compared to AUTO where people don't have much chance to ruin the gearbox.

OIL Change in DSG I'd do 40K miles (60k KM) or 4 years. That's reasonable in my head. Also depends on how much you drive town/extra urban, basically the more DSG works the more OIL gets hot the worse it gets. So in towns DSG OIL gets worse faster.

I would love to change mine to 40kph too. or even 30. But I checked a lot of web sites / modules through odb etc and couldn't find the option.

OIL issues? There is no oil issues? Sealed "maintenance" free units also die sooner because of no oil changes.

Wet clutch DSG that's properly maintained will probably last forever (they're overengineered). The durability of these gearboxes is just crazy good. The dry clutch type without issues should last 150.000miles and more. But like manual it will eventually require clutch replacement which isn't that much more expensive than manual. But either way, DSG is pretty reliable. I do not own automatic, but I've gathered a lot of information about it in last 2 years. Even took one apart from VW Golf GTI. P.S.: 1200HP monster Bugatti Chiron has DSG that puts down 1500nm torque and its designed the same way, just different clutch packs and materials.

Nice to hear. I don't have best experience with SLA (Smart Light Assist). Compared to other cars I mentioned above, its much slower and "laggy". Takes way too long time to dim lights for cars ahead (rear tail lights are too dimm for the sensor?). But it does work cool when it does work properly. In some cases it came out really really good. But on Highway it's terrible, specially for truck drivers when their main beam isn't visible because of the protection "fence?" and their upper lights are not strong enough for the sensor to pick them up. In that regard both BMW and Audi do FAR better job.... Really far far better job.

I find range on my headlights really good (comparable to newer BMW 5 series, Audi A6, Audi A4 and Audi A8 2012 that I drove). However, ASF works bit faster on other high end cars (faster turning in corners, even on "sport") but that's it... Whatever issue you have with range its related to invalid settings of headlights. Xenon is Xenon, there can not be "BIG" difference. The only difference can be in lens which can be "clear" or not "clear" and 90% cars have non-clear lens. That's aftermarket upgrade for max max performance but the gains are not worth it as u have to take apart headlight housing etc... Superb wise I don't think u can get better headlights. Newest models with Matrix LED should be better though, already cause there is more bulbs inside which makes density of light better in areas of view. But light output wise it's probably the same, as LED and HID are both limited by certain lumens for safety reasons (reflections, rain, etc...) P.S.: Bulbs can make big difference, if the car is older or has really bad bulbs in, they make world difference. P.P.S.: Normal headlights are bs so not paying for HID is really horrible idea. I don't even see why car manufacturer still makes cars without HID. The difference between normal and HID is day and night.

I got this issue lately after 2 years of ownership. Also window cracks when going up/down and sometimes in roundabouts or heavy turns u can hear a "click" inside window. All issues gone if you put window in lowest position or at least some where near half. This happens on both left and right side front. Left side window "tracks" on my car was once already replaced. The issue is back though. I have so many issues with this car that this one drove me over the edge. I'm selling the car and getting used E220d estate.

Basically the world "Auxiliary" means alternative heating and can mean both Webasto and Electric heater (which it is in newer cars like Superb). But in "basic" principle it is not webasto. Webasto is based on "small" engine that heats up air while simple Auxiliary heating system is electrical system that makes heating much faster due to no requirements for the engine to be hot. Fun part is that even in Service Manual Auxiliary heating is meant "Webasto", but in car air con menu u can enable Auxiliary heating without Webasto installed, which is the heater I just described before. So its up to VW/SKODA Who made it so stupid

Auxiliary heater is NOT the same as webasto. All superbs have Auxiliary heater.

Heard about that, currently price makes it worse right?

It came like that from factory. However my car does have 3 keys and 3 profiles settings. So when you change "driver" all settings incl. DCC change for that driver. Otherwise If I put sport and come back next day its still on Sport.

Mine saves?

That sounds ridiculous. Electric has a lot of perks of course, but range/batteries are still very big issue. If you drive for work its simply not good enough. Not to mention in countries like Germany where highway driving eats battery in 300-350km. I recently took roadtrip to Denmark (Im from Slovenia) and I drove 18 hours with very little stops. I could never reach Denmark in 1 day with Electric. First they need to improve batteries, electrical infrastructure around the Europe, then we can talk about Electric only. P.S.: I'm huge fan of Teslas otherwise, always wanted to buy used one. But filling them up in Slovenia is very big issue. Not to mention closest service is in Austria Graz about 40min highway drive and u need their Vignette. If car dies on you you're screwed... Towing is expensive as hell and you're days / weeks without the car.

Yea but manufacture will not only map engine for 2700... So that is not comparable. P.S.: In most cases u get better turbo, exhaust (possibly depends on engine) and brakes. Sometimes even upgraded high pressure pump for fuel. Truly depends on engine. Cupra offers ABT tuning map from factory for 500 quid.

DCC is no brainer... What makes car enjoyable? To me its ability to drive fast safely, acceleration, low noise and above all good suspension that evens out most bumps when traveling hundreds of miles/kilometers in one trip. DCC offers both sport and elegance in one package... Who replaces suspension every time they go on a long trip? With DCC you can do that with 1 press of a button. That's just one functionality of it. There is also more. Car uses extra sensors to soften up suspensions just at the right time, but not in big turns or hard accelerations or hard stops. I'm trying to buy used 3.0 Diesel 265ps BMW G31 with Adaptive Chassis / AIR suspension and its really really hard one. People for some dumb reason don't opt in for these things at heavy price tags of G31 series... Repair costs later are not as huge as they may sound. I really want to know why

Manuals are kind of dead today. I'd get it only in case my budget was really really tight.

18inch on DCC. I have MY18. Could be cause its brand new? That's interesting to know if they actually changed something, though what??? 😮 I also gave up on Skoda and not cause of the issues alone, but the service as I wrote. Like last time they aligned windshield (insurance paid, large stone hit my windshield and broke it, obviously) wrong and I had wind noise in the cabin?

I'm deciding between BMW 5 series touring and E. Tomorrow I got test drive with E so we'll see. I'm planning 6 cylinder engine with 250hp+. 5 series seems most tempting so far though. Loveeee interior!!! Sound proofing and ride quality is easily my focus. I especially hate the way suspension is noisy over bumps with Superb. Not the "lying policeman's" but the potholes and stuff. I can hear any road imperfection in the car. Its possible it's suspension fault, not car it self, but it's super annoying. Can't hear that on Audi. Otherwise Superb is still awesome car. I just hate the service in Slovenia. So much mess, so much ****... BLAH just finally completely ****ed me off.

I don't put to sport unless I'm doing 120kph+ on twisty country roads >_<. Yesterday I've had so much fun, until I was unable to stop the car before hitting a fox which broke intercooler protective plastic and ran off (this is second time this happened to me in last 2 months)... The stopping distance for the speed I had was very low, but still that speed and the weight of the car takes 70-80m to stop. I tried to avoid the fox but she got scared and after running half road decided to go back on and jumped directly into the car. In either way this car is true machine for its size/price... The additional sound deadening makes fast driving very quiet and relaxing, which somehow clouds your judgement about how fast its safe to drive. I admit I drive way too fast sometimes without good thought on what could go wrong. I'm going for a test drive for new BMW 5 touring and Mercedes E250d this/next week so I'm very excited to see the difference that the price tags bring on those two, if any in some aspects.

I have the same noise. First time it was fixed by replacing the window guide thing. Now it's back. Not sure what I'm going to do. But as long as window goes fine up/down and there is no extra "movement", I don't care much. I've had a lot of stuff replaced on this car already...

These ATE rotors are made this way, they're not simply straight metal. And no.

I've never heard that u can get a whole car replaced. If you can do that I'd defo go for it. But from dealer's side it sounds a huge huge financial loss. As car already lost its value.