wiilydog

M14 spline bit is the correct size for removing these carrier bolts https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/US-PRO-1-2-DR-Spline-Bit-Socket-M14-X-55MM-3399/143043245459?epid=4026859259&hash=item214e0ab593:g:z3oAAOSwK1RcCow9

Can't see there being any difference between estate and saloon brake set up, important bit is the diameter of the discs. If in doubt double check the part numbers against the manufacturer website.

I would fit 260mm ones if that is the original size. I fitted Ebc ones which are 260mm to mine which is a for a Pd140 2.0tdi

You can also double check the part numbers yourself on the Kilen website https://www.kilensprings.com/springs-catalouges/onlinecatalogue.asp

As long as you match it to the Kilen parts catalogue to your car you will be fine. I only fitted one front spring and it was a perfect match as I know you are suppose to replace them in pairs for best results but I didn't have an issues.

I've used Kilen springs before and they are same quality as original at fraction of the price and still rust free after 5 years.

best not to use an impact gun on the top nuts as the shock has delicate parts inside that can be easily damaged by an impact, only ok to use on old shock that you are planning to replace with new ones as doesn't matter if the old shock gets damaged a ring spanner and mole grips should be fine for the rear

As above makes sense to change both at the same time given the mileage and get a full kit solves the problem of trying match parts.

It will be the bearings that sits on top of the springs

I would try achoil as much more superior product https://www.powerenhancer.co.uk/archoil-ar6400-d-max-professional-diesel-engine-turbo-dpf-cat-cleaner-concentrate.html

Yes worth changing the front top mount and bearings as at 162k as it will save you future labour costs.

As above worth checking the rear drop links

For such low annual mileage, annual changes will be better for the engine and turbo as if you do lots of short journey the oil may not always get fully hot enough to burn off water vapour.

sounds like the ignition assembly is worn (the bit that sits behind the key barrel) as they do wear out with age and cause the key to be difficult to turn. See example below but you will need to double check if the part number is the same as yours https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FOR-AUDI-SEAT-SKODA-VW-IGNITION-STARTER-STEERING-LOCK-BARREL-ASSEMBLY-1K0905851B/233268128680?_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20200520130048%26meid%3D598f0272344a4044a0ecb00e86bc5e16%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dpf%26sd%3D173854752485%26itm%3D233268128680%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv5PairwiseWebWithDarwoV3BBEV2b&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

based on current UK prices of £1.117 / litre for diesel and £1.087 / litre for petrol you would need to achieve mpg 43.43 mpg to get the same cost per mile as for 1.2 petrol (@ 42.27mpg)

have you checked the battery? as it sound like a flat battery

you will be better off finding the part numbers using bilstien online catalog as Euro car parts fitment can be a bit hit and miss. with it being a VRS it will be the shocks for sports supension and the front shocks will be the 55mm ones B4 will be OEM replacement B6 are mono-tube (an upgrade but will cost double the price B4s) https://www.bilstein.com/uk/en/

Ebc yellow stuff pads + ebc discs

you can also trying hammering a smaller six sided socket on to the bolt if you are struggling to find a replacement key.

immobiliser chip is in the key flop, so if you are replacing the complete key fob and not just the key blade you will need to get it programmed.

as above if you turn the ignition on with airbag disconnected you can only clear the warning light with vcds

My personable experience with B6s is that if you mainly pootle about on 30mph pot holed roads and not bothered about improved handling then you are better off with B4, as I think the main complaints come with the low speed ride. But they come alive when you push the car and once above 30mph the ride is fine as the faster you go the better the ride becomes. I think this is due to the mono tube and digressive valve design of the shocks. They are also the same shocks paired with B12 lowering kits with the only difference in that some will come with B8 shocks which are a shorten version of the B6 shock but with the same firmness.

You will need check the front hub size are correct for your car as front shocks come in either 50mm or 55mm sizes.

Sometime you need to gently wiggle the key back and forth to get it to turn as that what happen to mine when my ignition mechanism failed.