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wiilydog

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Everything posted by wiilydog

  1. I've had good results with https://www.powerenhancer.co.uk/archoil-ar6400-d-max-professional-diesel-engine-turbo-dpf-cat-cleaner-concentrate.html For sticky turbo vanes as it is much more powerful cleaner compared to Redex
  2. I've also got a spare Audi A3 driver's seat in the garage you can have for free as it is just missing airbag connectors which can be taken from you old seat.
  3. sounds like someone is playing the flute🤣
  4. Swapping the shocks for something like b4s should make the ride a bit softer as b8 is a performance shock and the low speed ride can be quite harsh.
  5. Yes it's worth getting gearbox oil changed especially at 200k and has never been changed, but stick to genuine VAG gearbox oil or fuchs, as multi grade gearbox oil makes the change very notchy at colder temperatures. https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-976-fuchs-titan-sintofluid-fe-sae-75w-synthetic-manual-transmission-oil.aspx
  6. You don't need spring compressors for the rear springs just a trolley jack to support to arm and slowly lower after removing the outer bolt from the control arm. https://youtu.be/pf7vfEku2oM
  7. You should be able to check the year of manufacture as there should be a Yr/wk stamp on the tyre
  8. Trying poping some k seal additive in the coolant to see if that provides a cheap fix
  9. these are the holes I drilled to get access to the bolts and then tapped them loose with a screw driver and hammer these are the holes I drilled to get access to the bolts and then tapped them loose with a screw driver and hammer
  10. the anti taper screws are not that hard to remove as you can use a flat head screw driver and hammer to remove them. Just slowly tap the edge of the bolt head and they will eventually loosen, although you may need to drill some holes in the plastic surround to get a good position for your screw driver to get good access to the bolts
  11. This may help, as there is a black clip you need to push in to remove the black box. I did it a few years ago but I think I used a small Allen key to release tab in black box. At
  12. This is what I used for mine, it's a giant paper clip
  13. If you unplug the MAF and the car runs better it could be a faulty MAF, as MAF controls the fueling so if it was under fueling then it would feel very sluggish.
  14. Have you tried unplugging the MAF sensor to see if it makes a difference?
  15. It will be your toe bushes - the inside ones of the arm where the coil spring sits https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/293518585672?hash=item4457122f48:g:chgAAOSwu6tedIY~ powerflex bush No10 will be the ones for toe https://powerflexstore.co.uk/skoda/octavia-mk2-1z-2004-2012/powerflex-rear-lower-spring-mount-inner-octavia-mk2-1z-2004-2012-pfr85-510/
  16. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SKODA-AMUNDSEN-BLUETOOTH-RADIO-SD-MDI-AUX-SATNAV-HEAD-UNIT-SKRNS315-0595116815-/133854410922?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0 Just go for an upgraded head unit such as Amundsen+
  17. Yes that looks like a pre-face lift mirror so it should fit. If the your old silver cover plastic cover is fine you should be able to swap it over to the new mirror
  18. If the mirror shape looks the same it should fit, just make sure it comes from a pre-face lift MK2, also check if you have puddle lights as I think the wiring for non puddle light ones will be different. Any links to mirror you are buying?
  19. The mirror is just attached by a single torx bolt, so easiest way is to get a whole mirror and replace the whole thing. You will need to remove the door card to remove the plastic trim.
  20. the front part numbers look fine, but can't help with the rears as there seem to be different variants so best to go by measurement and sight of the pads of the rears
  21. would they work on any standard discs or would I need to upgrade discs? Yes will be fine with plain discs but get good quality discs (I rate EBC discs as they are made in the UK and better good quality, I previously ran EBC reds with Pagid discs and the discs were heavily scored so I would only run performance pads with good quality plain discs) Do they have decent bite from cold? Yes same as stock pads but the bite gets stronger as they warm up What they like after long m/way drive? fine as they don't fade when braking from higher motorway speeds and inspire confidence as this was one of the reasons for the upgrade. Can they cope on the back rds? yes the more you push them the better they get, EBC use the same EBC yellow formula for EBC Emergency services vehicles brake pads so if they are good enough for police cars that do high speed pursuits they should be fine for the occasional spirited driving. Any squealing? No problems with noise from EBC yellows, I found EBC Reds noisy and long time to bed in
  22. yes I'm currently running ebc yellow stuff on the front and they make a nice upgrade compared to stock pads, I would ignore reviews from more than a couple of year old as the compound has changed over the years.
  23. Try ebc yellow stuff with ebc plain discs
  24. Also check the MAF sensor as this controls the fueling as if it is out of spec it may cause the car to over fuel.
  25. only thing that could be incorrect are the springs as if it was for a diesel you might get a lift due to less weight from a petrol engine

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