Bap33

It should be behind the right side panel in the boot. Unfortunately, as I've sold my Superb Estate Mk3 roughly 1 year ago, I can't check or don't remember where this is precisely. On Superb Estate Mk2, this was close to the rear right lights. A kind of red plastic pull tab... Maybe a look at a 'How to' dealing with something in this area may help you locating it.

It makes me think of this 'joke': Out of 10 people, 9 love chocolate. The 10th one lies... 😁

Hi, Well, based on this you shouldn't feel much difference on performances, especially if your Octy Mk3 has a DSG6 and the Kodiaq has a DSG7. Indeed, if the Kodiaq is fitted with a DSG7, this may compensate for a difference in size and weight regarding mpg. I had a Superb Estate Mk3 L&K, TDI190 DSG6 4x4 (~1600kg), with an average 7.1l/100km (over 135000km and 7.5 years). Now with my Kodiaq Mk1 L&K, TD200 DSG7 4x4 (~1840kg), it has an average 7.4l/100km (over 25000km and 1 year). 0.3l/100km more is not a big difference. Leg room for rear passengers (on the 1st row) should be a bit bigger on Kodiaq. But boot space will probably b similar with a 7 seat version. Additionally, getting in and out of the Kodiaq will be easier thanks to its height.

Hi, Any thought on what? Size? Boot volume? Handling? Comfort? Performance? Mpg? 😉 Please tell us what engine and gearbox you have on your Octavia Scout and what kind of Kodiaq your looking for (engine, gearbox, trim level)... It will be easier to answer you properly. 🙂

Back to summer wheels this afternoon. My 'blue bear' has recovered its sporty look, with the Kodiaq RS style rims. 🙂

I wish you all the best in the replacement process. I used to have a Superb Mk2 from 2012 to 2017, I had to remove one handle one time, and it was a mess. I unfortunately broke the clamping system and had to buy a new one. 🙄

And how to handle brakes when they have no existing PR code? Unless TSI280 version may have 4-piston brake calipers already? I don't remember... If it has, do you mean using TSI280 PR codes would be the trick? Since @MarioVrs already has a TSI280, recoding is maybe not needed... 🤷‍♂️

I know it's too late now, but didn't you envision a covering with a glossy film? It would probably have save you time, sweat and maybe money, I fear...

Why? Not doubting about your sayings, just curious to understand. 😉

Hi, It's a known 'non-issue'. For several years now headlights on VAG cars are not airtight anymore. This enables air circulating behind the headlight glass, which unfortunately allows condensation happening. Dealers don't fix it anymore. It disappears when the air in the headlights is dry enough, or when outside temperature gets warmer. A solution could be to remove the cap at the back of your headlight, insert a tampon in your headlight, put the cap back in place and remove the tampon the next day. This may sound odd, but it's a tip used by underwater photographers to avoid condensation in their water resistant camera cases. Desiccant as suggested above, is an alternative but bags are usually small and may not absorb humidity completely in one go... Nevertheless, whatever the method, it won't prevent condensation definitely. It may come back.

@Cairus seems to know what he does when it deals with coding. But @Aymn, be aware that control unit #09 is connected to several other control units. Thus, saying that you have Matrix LED is not enough fore sure and just copying and pasting a code from another car may fix the problem you're facing, but it can generate many others ones, unless the code comes from a car that has exactly the same equipments and options as your car... I hope, using your VIN should avoid this problem.

Did you try sticking the broken parts with glue that polymerizes using UV lamp?

Though not yet finished, awesome job!

Hi, Sorry I can't answer directly. If you can identify screw #14, it may help you to define whether it's part #1 or #2. If screw #14 goes directly into this part, it could be #1 ; otherwise, I would guess, this is part #2

Memory saver is not necessary. The system is clever enough to reinitialize everything properly. You just need to drive for 400-500m (or 1/4 mile) to have all fault codes vanishing from your dashboard. They'll just be logged. But you can delete them from all concerned Control Units memory with VCDS, if you want. This being said, if you use a memory saver, it could possibly prevent you from having this "Xmas tree" effect on your dashboard upon engine start, once the new battery has been connected.

No worry English isn’t my mother tongue either 😁. I clearly for you this time. 😉👍

Hi, Does this mean that disconnecting the sensor made a hard reset that cleared your fault code?

Recoding enables the energy management system to take into account the new battery state. For instance, if your old battery was only able to deliver, let’s say 85% of its initial state when you removed it, AFAIK if you don’t recode the system, your new battery won’t get higher than these 85%of the old one. This is why recoding makes sense, especially if you install one with a bigger autonomy (78Ah instead of 76Ah if I remember well).

Something strange happened yesterday. My Columbus downloaded and installed system update #03A82 or something like that. It went fine and I got a message: "Update completed, OCU is available", whereas the 3 updates I mentioned previously are style pending stuck. Anyway, I'll have my local dealer to take a look in 2 weeks.

Hi, I assume it has 109000 Miles (not km) on the clock? If you confirm, I would say it's time to replace the timing belt. I can't remember the precise recommended mileage on TSI engines, but just on top of the head, I would say 180000km (this needs to be verified though) and your Kodiaq has ~174000 km on the clock. On TDI engines, the recommended mileage to replace the timing belt, is 210000km.

Better look in Germany, as french owner living in France, I think I've never seen any Scout model in France... Otherwise, here are the words: Front bumper: Pare-chocs avant Rear bumper: Pare-chocs arrière Wheel arches: Arches de roues Plastic trims: Habillages plastiques If you need other translations, just ask. 😉

Hi, I won't be optimistic too quickly, but it could be possible that I've got my Columbus update out of it's "stuck mode". I've plugged my VCDS cable and erased some fault codes in the 5F module : 1 Fault Found: 0012 - Digital Radio Antenna B1103 11 [00001001] - Short to Ground Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Priority: 6 Fault Frequency: 1 Reset counter: 40 Mileage: 62920 km Date: 2026.03.28 Time: 14:32:22 Connection between radio and antenna amplifier: Short circuit Connection between antenna amplifier and antenna: Not available Antenna current: 116 mA Voltage terminal 30: 11.6 V It could be a reason why the update was stuck. I've erased the fault code. I'll check tomorrow, whether it comes back or not and if next update fails too. But I've no idea how to fix that... I assume there's something to do with the 'heating grid' on the tailgate window...

Hi, I tried to install a memory module to store the Stop & Start system (de)activation state after each engine shut down. But it seems what I've bought (from Ali) is just crap. I gambled, and I lost. The S&S is always ON at each start. Maybe I'll open a claim to get a new own or just throw it into the bin... Not decided yet...🤔

Hi, What is the most common use of your Kodiaq? Is it often used on short drive in trafic jam for instance? If yes, I would say the EGR valve could start being clogged... However, the symptoms would still be there even after a restart. Additionally, this doesn't explain the ESC error code. 🤔

As it's a non-FL version, this explains why you can do it. 😉