Bap33

Hi, I assume it has 109000 Miles (not km) on the clock? If you confirm, I would say it's time to replace the timing belt. I can't remember the precise recommended mileage on TSI engines, but just on top of the head, I would say 180000km (this needs to be verified though) and your Kodiaq has ~174000 km on the clock. On TDI engines, the recommended mileage to replace the timing belt, is 210000km.

Better look in Germany, as french owner living in France, I think I've never seen any Scout model in France... Otherwise, here are the words: Front bumper: Pare-chocs avant Rear bumper: Pare-chocs arrière Wheel arches: Arches de roues Plastic trims: Habillages plastiques If you need other translations, just ask. 😉

Hi, I won't be optimistic too quickly, but it could be possible that I've got my Columbus update out of it's "stuck mode". I've plugged my VCDS cable and erased some fault codes in the 5F module : 1 Fault Found: 0012 - Digital Radio Antenna B1103 11 [00001001] - Short to Ground Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Priority: 6 Fault Frequency: 1 Reset counter: 40 Mileage: 62920 km Date: 2026.03.28 Time: 14:32:22 Connection between radio and antenna amplifier: Short circuit Connection between antenna amplifier and antenna: Not available Antenna current: 116 mA Voltage terminal 30: 11.6 V It could be a reason why the update was stuck. I've erased the fault code. I'll check tomorrow, whether it comes back or not and if next update fails too. But I've no idea how to fix that... I assume there's something to do with the 'heating grid' on the tailgate window...

Hi, I tried to install a memory module to store the Stop & Start system (de)activation state after each engine shut down. But it seems what I've bought (from Ali) is just crap. I gambled, and I lost. The S&S is always ON at each start. Maybe I'll open a claim to get a new own or just throw it into the bin... Not decided yet...🤔

Hi, What is the most common use of your Kodiaq? Is it often used on short drive in trafic jam for instance? If yes, I would say the EGR valve could start being clogged... However, the symptoms would still be there even after a restart. Additionally, this doesn't explain the ESC error code. 🤔

As it's a non-FL version, this explains why you can do it. 😉

Fully agree! I've made the same mod on my Kodiaq Mk1. And major point, efficiency is the same!

What is the MY of year Kodiaq?

Hi, And how do you upload them onto your Amundsen or Columbus? I think, this is possible for non-FL versions, but I've always been told, this is not possible on a MY2022 (FL) Columbus for instance...

Hi, Were fed up with the original seat covers? Or did you want to protect them against UVs, stains o whatever?

I suggest asking @JR RS. He has made this mod on his Gandalf Hulk 🤭...

Just click on "Welcome" and follow my instructions above. 😉

Try again, click on the link, then Welcome > Free Services > CarProg2. Finally, use drop down menus on the top : Language / Brand / Car Model (SUP for Superb) > Model Year Body parts are in Part #8. Then look for your parts. ;) I doubt, you don't find anything...

New discs ands pads after only 29000 miles sounds a bit early to me. What kind of usage doo you have? Just curious to understand. 🙂

Hi, Lucky you, very rare model! I think ifinterface.com could help you finding the P/N, you're looking for. 😉 However, if you have the normal Estate front and rear fenders, I don't know if the plastic wheel arches trims will be easy to install on your car. I think (still need to be verified) the original wheel arches are bolted or at least clipped on the fenders. ifinterface should help you finding how the original Scout configuration is and what you really need anyway.

@JR RS I fear Gandalf doesn't still suit anymore. IMHO, Hulk would be more appropriate, now. 😁 ~400BHP. Wooo... I assume you don't need hair comb in the morning anymore. Just sit in the car, press right pedal: Hair dress fixed! 🤣

Thank you to the moderator who renamed the thread I've looked for and posted as a link in my message yesterday. 🙂

Hi, This thread may help : It took me almost 3/4h to find it back 🥵, due to it's title never showing up with the search function... I've just asked a moderator to rename the thread title in a more comprehensive way... Enjoy! 😉

Hi, I recommend reading the user's manual. As Far As I Remember, Fuel Additives are prohibited by VAG. Regarding oil additives, how many miles on the clock of your Superb? If it's already above 100000, I fear a pre-oil change additive may be worse than a plain oil change. Indeed, if it has too much detergent properties, it could loosen a whole bunch of residue that could stick where it shouldn't and thus clog some holes/hoses/pipes, and then preventing the normal oil flow with many damages as a consequence... If you really want to have an idea of how dirty it is. Maybe just remove the oil pan and clean it with white spirit. Then just pay attention to the oil pan seal. I don't now if it's a real seal with a P/N or if the oil pan is sealed using a gasket sealant.

Hi, Your long coding depends on how your Superb is specced. Considering yours sayings, I assume your garage is not an official dealer. Based on this, I would recommend to go to an official dealer to have everything reset and have the bill paid by your 'so-called' specialist. Crossing the fingers for you.

Hi, I had envisioned to write a full 'How to' Guide, but everything is exactly the same as for my ex Superb Estate Mk3 : Same 11mm bleed screws, whose tightening torque is 10 N.m Same fluide quantities : 0.3l for rear calipers / 0.2l for front calipers (add 0.15l if manual gear box). Same bleed sequence : 1st Rear Right caliper, 2nd Rear Left one, 3rd Front right one and 4th Front left one. Removing the wheels takes some additional time, but make it a lot easier, especially on the rear calipers, whose access to the bleed screw is not that easy due to EPB motors. I took me 2:15 hours, but one of my neighbours (a Superb Mk2 onwer) wanted to see the operating process. This was an opportunity to chat with him during this maintenance operation, since he was formerly an AWACS and B-777 pilot. I think this operation requires 1:30 hour (without hurrying too much). @moderators : I know duplicating a topic is 'banned'. I hope referring to another post is fine nevertheless. Otherwise, feel free to delete. I hope this helps.

Hi, Change brake fluid today. Nothing difficult. All went fine. Test drive was OK. it costed me only €22,8 for 1.5l of brake fluid. Happy Kodiaq owner :)

Be careful with eaby selleers! Don't forget to make a test on hidden parden before. I had bought a touch-up paint for silver grey Audi rims on ebay 6 or 7 years ago, with the so-called matching paint code and it was not the right color at all. Wasted some quids...

Hi, If, you switch off your car once EPB is in maintenance mode, it will be ok. Then just switch on, when you want to leave maintenance mode. Have a look to the ´How to’ I´ve posted. 😉

Hi, I faced similar problem with my own Kodiaq. The battery autonomy is very low compared to my ex Superb Estate Mk3. Hopefully, I have a battery booster and a battery charger which saved me 2 or 3 Times after Coding sessions… Now, I know I have to limit my coding sessions to 20-30 mn as a maximum.