Bap33

Why apologizing? IMHO, it’s much more relevant to enrich an existant thread (even an old one) than creating a nth one on the same subject, which in the end dilutes all the knowledge. What you´ve done is simply a ´best practice’. Thus, Thank you very much! 🙂

I formerly thought the same thing as you, until I asked some tips to our Master Superb Mk3 Guru @ApertureS 👋 before replacing the rear brake pads on my ex-Superb Mk3. He told me to push straight to avoid making dammage (on the piston seals or on the EPB motors, I can't remember honestly), thus I pushed forward and everything went as planned.

Hi @JR RS, Long time since I've been able to give you a tip. Usually, YOU give me tips. 😁 Once spring is removed (and brake fluid tank cap is off), you just need a lever (e.g.: a flat screw driver) to push brake caliper back for 1 or 2mm, to create a small play to be able remove both brake pads. Then a flat piece of wood and a G-clamp allow you to push the brake piston back very easily. If needed, have a look to the 'How to' I've posted in the Kodiaq forum. 😉 I've seen no difference in the process between Superb Mk3 and Kodiaq Mk1 to replace rear brake pads, including getting in and out of the maintenance mode of the EPB. Take care!

OK. Then I've learnt something. Thanks.

Hi, I changed my rear brake pads on both a Superb Mk3 and a Kodiaq MK1 : I didn't plug any battery charger or so while operating. Just switched contact off. And as said above, no need to wind the brake piston. Just pushed it straight. According to our Superb Mk3 Master Guru @ApertureS 👋, winding the piston may cause damage to the piston seal...

Correct me if I misunderstand what you've done... You've change the boot latch twice, and the display still shows a boot open? If yes, I'm gonna repeat what I've suggested in August: Check the proximity sensor, which should be under the spring loaded flap around the hook. I had the issue on my wife's ex Audi Q3 Mk1. Solved in 10mn, €0.

I don't understand either, why only D250 and DQ500 need to have oil filter replaced, while all others don't. Do other ones have no filter? I've seen several 'how to' on YT to replace DSG oil on DG381, and as far as I can remember, they replaced the oil filter too. The principe, is very similar to DQ250, except there are 2 drain holes.

Do you have a pic on the locations where you put your axle stands? This could help me. I've read the workshop manual and it says, no other lifting point shall be used but those designated for the jack... But I assume I'm not the only to struggle with putting an axle stand at the same location as the one already used for the jack... 🤪

Maybe I'm curious, but would you be colorblind? If yes, I would better understand why you struggle with low color contrast...

My blue bear, fresh from its ceramic coating, and thanks to the kind and fortuitous assistance of a driver who, while waiting for someone, pointed its low beam on my Kodiaq 😁: https://i.ibb.co/SDPYV6nz/IMG-1033.avif https://i.ibb.co/dsvYVfTB/IMG-1034.avif https://i.ibb.co/4gN7KHmx/IMG-1036.avif

Hi, Here is the pic: 1800km after switching to ATE ceramic brake pads. Rims started becoming a little bit dirty already, even before brake pads replacement... Not too bad I think... I'll take new pics after several thousands of km

Hi, I fear it ain't possible to make the main beam warning light more prominent on a VC, unless having very high level computer skills... SLA is very efficient though, trusting this system sounds more simple...

Hi, I had a ceramic coating applied to my Blue Bear. It looks great. Well... it didn't stay so for a long time with such a weather. But at least it's protected and I'll be able to wash it more easily. Just before dropping it off by my dealer, I took a picture of one of the front wheels to show how little dirt there was after 1800km since switching to ATE Ceramic brake pads. It looks pretty clean to me. But no luck, the website I usually use to upload my pics is bugging ... So you'll have to be patient... 🤷‍♂️

Hi, Just had a quotation from my local dealer this morning. I discovered the center reflector bar is now in 2 parts for FL version with these both P/N: 565945103A & 565945104A. @Lori_J7 and @Arkaig did you have thèse 2 parts for the center bar too? TIA.

Hi, As far as I remember, if you have less than 2000 km Adblue autonomy left, you should have a warning popping up on the dashboard each time you start. With a full tank of AdBlue, I used to have around 14000km of autonomy on my former Superb MK3 (also TDI190 equipped, with DSG6 4x4) You have a FL version, with Columbus MMI, you should be able to rearrange the App icons as on a Smartphone. Then you just need to press the 'Menu' button and you'll have your favorite Apps on the 1st screen.

Hi, AFAIK, Basic setting only changes values, but it doesn't deal with coding nor adaptations. Thus, you can make as many basic settings as you want, I fear it won't bring you back to the original coding... As @Cairus said, getting back to your original coding should be the lonely solution.

Hi, Or maybe just a software update or reinstallation needed?

Not sure how this can pass the MOT aither...

It will definitely be a good thing. Your rims will be much easier to clean, when you remove them at the next swap.

I´d say 3-4mm

Hi, I do have the same Kodiaq Mk1 MY22 TD200 4x4 L&K. Bought it in last April @ ~40000km. Had the oil and oil filter changed @47000 km (since previous maintenance had been a bit offset by previous owner). It now has 53000km, but I haven't topped up yet, mainly because, the dealer had poor a bit too much oil in... It's now at the max allowed level. I'll check how it decreases over the next months... Dealing with fuel consumption, I've similar fuel burn values, I'd say. A full tank (~58l) enables me to cover 800 to 880km depending on driving style and outside temp. Real average fuel consumption (calculated value, not dashboard value) is 7.30L/100km since I'm the owner (~13000km over last 7 months). I've dropped down to 6.9l once or twice. Max value was over 8.0l once after a 300km trip on french motorway with a 80-100kmh headwind. Most of the time, it's between 7.1 and 7.4l/100km.

Hi, Has the undertray all its screws?

Wrote 2 'How to guides' for front and rear brake pads replacement. Just go here if needed ;) : https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/352-skoda-kodiaq-guides/

Hi all, Well, one more for the road? After the front brake pads, here are the rear ones... :warning: DISCLAIMER: Do not attempt this operation if you do not feel capable. This deals with the brakes! It is necessary to access several vehicle control units using VCDS (diagnostic tool to perform the work correctly)! This is only a the story of my own experience on this subject. I do not require or encourage anyone to do the same. I accept no responsibility in case of problems. I do not guarantee the absence of typos or errors! :warning: Here is a new tutorial to replace rear brake pads on a Kodiaq Mk1. To begin, here's the system: Only guide rods #16 need to be removed. There's no need to replace them. Required tools: - Flathead screwdriver to remove the covers #17 - 7mm Allen key for the guide rods #16 - Flat pliers for the spring #8 - High-temperature grease (graphite or copper / not even a pea-sized amount for each pad) - G-clamp and wooden block (or piston retraction tool) to push the piston back - Brake cleaner spray - Fine sandpaper - 600 grit minimum - VCDS diagnostic tool Tightening torque: 35 Nm Step 1 - Preparation: - Turn the ignition on, engine off. - Release the electric parking brake. - Connect the VCDS diagnostic tool and go to 03 - ABS/Brakes > 02 - Basic settings. - In the drop-down menu, select Start Lining change mode. - With your foot off the brake pedal, click "Go!" and listen to the electric parking brake motors disengaging and wait for them to stop. At this point, it will beep repeatedly 😳, because several systems are malfunctioning: ABS / ESP / Rear Traffic / ACC, etc. 😱 and you might wonder why you didn't stay home and watch TV 😄! - Turn the ignition off. Step 2 - Removing old brake pads and installing the new ones: Next, as for the tutorial on front brake pads replacement, I wouldn't do better than this video which helped me a lot, even though I had already done it on my old Superb 3: What this video doesn't explain: - The necessary tools (see the instructions above) - The tightening torque (same) - The inner and outer brake pads are different (those with spring #11 are the inner pads). If any doubt, just take a look at the old pads. You'll see the pistons imprint on the inner pads anyway. - High-temperature grease should be applied to the tabs at the top and bottom of the pads to ease sliding in calipers (once you know this, you better understand what he's doing at ~4:55 and 5:25). - :warning: Before pushing back the first piston, and especially the second piston :warning:, it's best to check the brake fluid level in the tank to make sure it won't overflow. If necessary, remove some with a syringe to bring it close to the maximum level or just above. - :warning: Before restarting the engine and pumping the brake pedal :warning:, you must close the brake fluid tank; otherwise, it will definitely overflow. IMHO, the video is misleading on this point. - :warning: Before refitting the wheels :warning:, do not grease the threads of the wheel nuts (clean them with a metallic brush and blow them with an air compressor if possible). The Skoda workshop manual clearly states that grease should not be applied on the threads of wheel nuts. IMHO, here again, the video is misleading on this point. Step 3 - Exiting Maintenance Mode: Once the brake pads have been changed and your Kodiaq has been lowered to the ground, - Close the brake fluid tank and turn the ignition on (engine off). - Pump the brake pedal several times. - Connect the VCDS diagnostic tool and go to 03 - ABS/Brakes > 02 - Basic settings. - In the drop-down menu, select "End Lining change mode". - With your foot removed from the brake pedal, click on "Go!" and listen to the electric parking brake completing its learning cycle for the new stroke, taking into account the additional brake pad thickness. - With your foot on the brake, manually activate and deactivate the electric parking brake a few times using the button on the center console. - Run a complete scan using VCDS and clear all fault codes generated by entering maintenance mode (in each control unit containing a fault code, go to "02 - Fault codes", then click on "Clear Codes"). - Check the brake fluid level and top it up if necessary. That's it! :)

Hi all, It's been a while, I hadn't written a 'How to'... 😁 Here's a new tutorial to replace front brake pads on a Kodiaq Mk1. To begin, here's the system: Only screws #8 have to be removed and replaced. Make sure they are supplied with the pads when you buy them. Otherwise, their OEM P/N is WHT003250. They're already coated with Loctite. Required tools: - 13mm wrench for screws #8 - 17mm wrench to lock the guide rods (not marked, but included in assembly #5) and protected by a dust sleeve. - High-temperature grease (graphite or copper-based / less than a pepper grain for each pad) - G-Clamp and wooden block to push the piston back - Brake cleaner spray Tightening torque: 35 Nm Then, I wouldn't do better than this video, which was very helpful: What this video doesn't explain: - The necessary tools (see above) - The tightening torque (same) - The wear indicator is only present on the right side. - The inner and outer pads are different. There's a kind of "half-moon" shape on the pads that go on the piston side (and I think the guy puts the inner left pad instead of the outer right one in the video 🤔)... If any doubt, just take a look at the old pads. You'll see the pistons imprint on the inner pads anyway. - High-temperature grease should be applied to the tabs at the top and bottom of the pads to ease sliding in calipers (once you know this, you better understand what he's doing at ~5:20 and 6:00) - To reconnect the wear indicator, you have to push the connector in quite firmly until you hear a small "click." I don't know if it's the same for all connectors, but for mine, I really had to force it a little. - ⚠️ Before pushing back the second piston ⚠️, better check the brake fluid level in the tank to make sure it won't overflow. If necessary, remove some with a syringe to bring it close to the maximum level or just above - ⚠️ Before restarting and pumping the brake pedal ⚠️, close the brake fluid tank, otherwise, it will definitely overflow. IMHO, the video is misleading on this point. There you go 🙂 !