Bap33

This is real bullsh*t. I had the same kind of argue from Skoda France on my former Superb Estate Mk2 whose both chrom trims on back side windows had tarnished too or got "milky spots" after only 6 months since new. Errrr... Why all other chrom trims not affected then? Do you think I use a different car shampoo only for back side windows chrom trims? Customer support: I'm sorry this is the only explanation I got from tech support... 🤥 Then no warranty applied... 🙄😬 In the present case I would recommend asking the dealer to replace the trim before delivery.

I agree with @UndertheRadar, phone close to the seats amplifies a bit the actual noise level. Mine make an equivalent noise level. It's overall quite discrete.

Hi @numskull, Maybe this helps?...

@Marcii As long as your O3 is also fitted with a DQ250 gearbox, this tutorial should be applicable too. Of course there may be slight differences on the way to access the gearbox and its oil filter. But the principle will remain the same. It's really useless to target a 35-40°C oil temp before draining oil. The only argue to heat the gearbox oil before draining is to make it more fluid so that the gearbox gets empty faster. But even if you don't go for a short drive to heat it up, it will be already quite fluid. Unless you change oil outside in a harsh winter... The 35-40°C target is only for a correct level. Indeed, when oil heats up, its volume expands a bit and overflows the oil pipe #26, this is why you have to reach this 35-40°C temperature range to get a correct oil level. Note: Rather fill a bit more oil than necessary. All surplus oil will overflow oil pipe #26 when correct temperature range is reached. If you don't fill enough, don't forget, that you'll have to screw the filling hose back on the drain hole, since the gearbox is not filled through a top filling hole. Not very comfortable...

Depending on the road, the TSR can be confused by speed limits for lorries. E.g.: I know a road where speed limit for cars is 110km/h and 90km/h for lorries. But my TSR displays 90km/h though I do get 110km/h on my Columbus. It changes and gets consistent again at the next speed limit sign.

Same thing for me. On setting #3, you can hear a light/discrete buzz. The more it's silent in the car / outside, the more you can distinguish it. But once again, it's discrete...

I'm sorry, but I don't get what you intend to do with a Lane Assist system which would not "Adaptative" anymore... 🤔 Maybe I missed something.

Hi, Right button, upper part. Then scroll with the right scroll wheel and tick / untick the 'Lane assist' box in the menu. As per other functions (Blind spot, Rear traffic, etc.)

Hi, I succeeded in clearing the fault code on the « Emergency call function ». It was effectively hidden in the ‘75-Telematics’ module. 👍 But surprinsingly, the controller status was logged as OK in the very first part of the VCDS scan file… 🤔 Happy it’s back to normal status.

Hi, If you have A5 camera on the windscreen, it may be possible to retrofit this function. Nevertheless, I´ll let @ApertureS confirm, since he has a Master PhD in Skoda retrofitting. 😁

Thanks. I haven't cleared the fault code yet. I'll see if it comes back.

It was my turn today afternoon. The "Emergency call" error message popped on my dashboard today. It seems it appeared almost at the same time I've got a "Battery low voltage" warning. I don't know if there could be a link between both messages. You write, there's an internal battery. Do you know if this could be replaced as easily as a "CR2032 / CR2450" or any other similar reference battery by the owner (just as the remote control battery for instance)? Even if there are some housings to remove, is it feasible by a DIYer?... I assume this battery is loacted in the sunroof control panel, close to the "Emergency call" button... 🤔 If not related to the battery, should there be a fault code in a VCDS scan? Is which module then? Thank you very much!

Stone chips: --> delayed because of brake pads replacement, which took longer than expected... Right chrome trim on rear bumper diffusor: Back in place, quite satisfied with new varnishing result. Rear brake pad replacement: Done! Not that complicated, thanks to @ApertureS explanations to apply correct operating process with VCDS. 🙏 What was not expected was the black screen on my laptop just before applying VCDS procedure 😰. Fortunately, it was just before I started applying the procedure. I almost had cold sweat. Additionally, I did not pay enough attention, but I left ignition on (engine off of course), with driver's door open, DRL on, and radio on... And as a logical consequence, I've got following error messages, few minutes before I finished: ⚠️Warning, Low battery voltage! ⚠️ More annoying, I've also got a 2nd warning message: "Emergency call not available: workshop service required". I hope it's only due to the battery low voltage. I'll have a test drive tomorrow for the brake pads and see if battery charging will erase this error message. 🤞

Done yesterday: - Renewed piano black door trims with polish. They were so dull, they’re now shiny again. 😃 - Treated some stone chips on the bonnet and roof with touch-up pen. Quite satisfied with the result. - Varnished the right chrome trim of my sportline diffusor (had hit a stone in reverse gear to avoid being hit by a jerk driver). Fortunately, the chrome (plastic actually) was not scratched, only the varnished peeled off. Still to be clipsed back onto the car. It dried overnight after 3 layers. - Fixed a problem on my rear dashcam, which was disconnected from the video cable. - Made a housing for the rear dashcam to make it look a bit more ‘OEM’. Just need to glue it with double sides scotch tape, which I don’t currently have. Will be done at the end of the week. Things to do this afternoon: - Finish the stone chips treatment with varnish coating - Put back the right chrome trim on rear bumper diffusor - Replace rear brake pads.

Quite unbelievable that the oil filter housing has been overtorqued… Especially since the torque value is direclty written on the housing!

That’s because you’ve made so many retrofits on your Mk3. 😂

Not every day, that I can help someone living at the opposite side of earth... 😂

Sorry, my memory fooled me. The invoice states, they DID remove the aft glass panel to replace the seal. Working time is 1.80 hour. But for sure, they did not remove the roof ceiling.

I can confirm they did not remove the glass panels or even the roof ceiling to replace the seals. i´ll check the working time on the bill.

Well, I've looked at the bill. The side seal reference seems to be 3G9877297. I write "seems to be", since there are actually 2 seals references, but both are just described as "seal" 😐. The other seal reference is 3G9877913, and is a bit less expensive (€86.76 VAT incl.). But I have no doubt about both references. I have the bill on my desk while writing this post. 😉 As far as I remember, the side seal has a kind of "U-shape" and seals both sides of the sunroof. Therefore, I guess it's the more expensive one (€174 VAT incl.) and should be 3G9877927. Still trying to remember the worshop manager exlanations, the second seal (3G9877913) covers the central part of the first one and seals both glass panels in the middle of the sunroof. I'm not 100% sure, but I shouldn't be far from truth regarding the way they're installed... 🤔

Hi @Reggie-nz, I ´ll check the reference on the bill this evening.

Not that hard with the wheel off. Quite easy on the rear one, even with a 4x4 version. On the front one, a bit more difficult to access the inner side but still feasible. Removing the undertray could be clever tip to get a better access to the inner side. Outer side is not an issue. Otherwise using ramps to raise the front axle and remove the undertray should be another to proceed. Ramps should also work with rear axle. I may try that next time!

I've tested this tip last week-end while swapping winter wheels for summer wheels. Just bought a tube of marine grease for less than €4 It works pretty fine. No noise anymore upon bumps. Awesome! 😃 My Mk3 is now so silent again ! Just curious to see listen how long it will last! Thank you soooo much @ApertureS

@Danoid Nice job. I use Billberry Wheel Cleaner from Valet Pro. Even diluted to 25% and sprayed on heavily encrusted brake dust, it works fine. Never been disappointed with it. I just use a microfiber glove with this kind of 1" long "drealocks" 😁 on one side. It perfectly goes in tight corners...

I hope Skoda did not hire those guys who assembled the doors on Boeing 737Max for our sunroofs... Sorry... it was so easy... 😁