Bap33

You change the air filter every 15000 km? It sounds a very low mileage. I do it every 30000km, whereas AFAIK Skoda recommends a replacement every 90000 km (on TDIs).

You may think you did write it in your original post, but you didn't... But now we know 😁. I assume you have a 4x4 version if you speak about a DQ381. Otherwise it's a DQ380. But we still don't know engine version, nor MY...

I phoned my (french) local dealer for another subject this evening. He told me (BTW), he had received a new Superb Mk4 and a new Kodiaq Mk2. Maybe I'll get there tomorrow to see both... 😃

Well, we miss some information from you to answer properly: Model Year / Engin version / DSG 6 or 7 Then, we can advise you. Completing your profile could help too...

Well, I think this metal corrosion on valve caps, strongly depends on where you live. Maybe in UK, you're never far from the see and they face salt conditions due to oceanic climat? On my side (not far from Paris, France), I've these alloy valve caps since 2018. Never have seen them stuck due to corrosion. And I never greased the thread as a prevention mean... 🤷‍♂️ I've pu similar ones on my wife's Audi Q3 since 2019, not problem either... The only reproach I can make is that anodizing has faded with UV exposure... They're not really black anymore, they look more "bronze" now. I can see a difference between left and right sides. My park place at home is along a hedge, which protects the car from UV. Valve caps on this side are darker. Maybe it's time for me to throw them into the bin too, because it doesn't look very nice anymore... Not for the same reason... 😁

@defsix Here you are: https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/1005005679582483.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.17.16225e5bf9J8Kz&gatewayAdapt=glo2fra

Upgraded the washer tank cap: Bought 2 (also one for my wife's Cupra Formentor) from Ali*** for less than €3. Fits perfect.

Here is the extract of the VCDS scan: ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 08: Auto HVAC (E87) Labels:| 3V0-907-044.clb Part No SW: 3V0 907 044 CP HW: 3V0 907 044 CP Component: AC Automat H34 4402 Revision: 20K10000 Serial number: 00000B00659263 Dataset Number: 0000 Coding: 1201010400041001100510410010112A Shop #: WSC 33361 790 00140 ASAM Dataset: EV_ACClimaPrehVW37X 002025 ROD: EV_ACClimaPrehVW37X_002_VW37.rod VCID: 04296C198F083CB667-8050 Humidity sensor: exterior: Rear air conditioning block 1: H02 1 Fault Found: 263427 - Air Quality Sensor B10AF 29 [00001001] - Signal Implausible Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Priority: 3 Fault Frequency: 2 Reset counter: 103 Mileage: 116280 km Date: 2024.05.08 Time: 19:12:46 Outside temperature: 17.0 ∞C Voltage terminal 30: 11.9 V System run time-Engine running time: 0 s System run time-Terminal 15 on: 253 s Air quality status: Clean air System run time-Engine running time: 0 s System run time-Terminal 15 on: 253 s ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Clearing it is useless, it comes back immediately. I googled the fault code on the ross-tech forum, and conclusion is regularly the same: Sensor faulty...

If the P/N changes, it's highly probable this is a different part and thus non compatible. First 3 characters correspond to the car model. 071 151 remain the same because it has the same function (roof bars here). For instance, all wheels have a P/N using AAA 601 025 BB format, where AAA stands for car model (as in your example) and BB corresponds to the rim model. But all wheels are not the same, they can't be swapped on any other car just like that.

Errr... What about a marketing argue to let people think this is a high technology product, which therefore has to be sold more expensive?

Hi, Nice rims, but they're not Skoda wheels. Did you have a look at the back? If they are VAG wheels, you'll find an OEM reference using a AAA601025BB CCCC format on one of the spokes. AAA corresponds to the car model, BB (1 or 2 characters) is the wheel model and CCCC (3 to 4 characters) is the paint code. If the reference is AAA073XXXBB CCCC, with XXX being one of the following numbers (527, 528, 529, 547, 548, 549, 629, 647 or 649), it's a not a first mount VAG wheel but an accessory VAG wheel (2nd mount). If there's not such a reference they may be VAG replicas.

This only change the gearbox setting, not the driving profil. Thus it's normal, that it doesn't switch to "Sport" mode. However, it's strange, that it goes to "Manual". If you only pull the lever from D to S it shall keep in automatic. To switch to "Manual", you really need to push on the side...

It's probably true. But cars for journalists are often in best conditions so that media articles are more positive. It helps manufacturers improving future sales.

OMG! These LED bulbs can make appear a workmate and a full set of tools in my garage? Where can I buy them? I'll order them right now! 😃 ... Sorry 😁.

Hi, Surprising... I've change my battery on my own, and this setup didn't disappear... Your dealer should be able to fix it quickly (if he knows what he does).

AQS, the return! My new AQS has lasted... 6 months 😤... I had bet it would last at least 2 or 3 years. Losing bet 🙄... I'll check if there can be a 1 year warranty. Otherwise, next one will then be a F version. I hope it won't cost me an arm in this case

Not today, but few days ago: 'Hover board' mode (for the oldest who know Marty McFly! 😁) : This was while changing rear brake pads. BTW, special thanks to @ApertureS 👋 for giving me the complete procedure, including how to stow the parking brake. 🙏

Hi, Here is the final mod I wanted to make on my rear dashcam: Simply stuck with a double sided 3M tape. I had expected that the hole would be right in front of the lens since it has the same diameter, base on my first try. But this was without counting with the pitch angle of the rear cam and the width of the cam feet. Not that massive, and still acceptable (at least to me).

Hi, The driving profil is only partially remembered. At least for my MY18 (built in octobre 2017), the engine and gearbox are systematically reset to normal mode at each start, though the previous mode is still displyed on my Columbus screen. I had asked to my local dealer at the beginning of my ownership (from new). They showed me a Skoda intern notice saying this is the default setting and for safety reasons. But I don't know if it can be tuned. Thus, you have to press the MODE button and make the 'complete loop' again to get back to the previous mode.

In stock version? I would be surprised of a +40HP 'error'... AFAIK Stage 1 is usually 330 to 360 depending on who makes the remap.

The Cupra Formentor FL, which is about to come, will also have this new standard PHEV. 1.5 TSI / 204 or 272HP (both versions available) / 100km range in full electric mode.

Almost doubled HP, it must be a significant change! 😁

Did you try to have a look on ifinterface.com. Which is an online ETKA. Welcome > Free Services > CarProg2 Then chose what corresponds to your Mk3 in the drop down menus in the top left corner. Finally, use chapter 4 (Front axle and dif...)

I would suggest checking on ifinterface.com if your dampers have any different reference from Arteon ones.

Only reporting my modest experience, not affirming anything on MY19. However it can give an idea on what can really be expected from colleague's MY16, can't it?...