agedbriar

My driving and land conditions are such, that even with the Start-Stop feature disabled, I usually return home with the battery less than fully charged, thanks to the algorithm that tries to avoid consuming extra fuel for charging when the latter isn't strictly necessary and my drive home is mostly uphill. As I make a point of not letting the battery rest at less than 12.4 V, in order to prevent sulfation, I often find myself charging the battery with my external charger between the infrequent trips. I'm wondering. If I replace the original 58Ah EFB with a, say, 70Ah EFB/AGM without updating the battery specs in the car's database, will the battery voltage take longer to drop to 12,4V after a typical trip? Could the wrong battery specs in the database have any other ill effect besides the Start-Stop not activating exactly as designed to?

Received yesterday this Battery Guard. I connected it to the always live cigarette lighter port and its voltage reading matches the one from my recently re-calibrated multimeter (taken off the battery posts) to the 4th digit. Kudos for that. https://www.ebay.de/itm/264818813144?hash=item3da86e68d8:g:rqAAAOSwrhJlSgIo&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8PIM5NwxZWKzbtRZv13uB66knIUacH9wr9bhEcvFJhg06tI94AEvMxkXmTGKu7F0hn5S4ZFFi8btQS4XWqUUv%2BH37nnRRre8IXa5HoFRDv34P46Ih69z2k514nbov1MlKWJTqPUGAntWKYpESUTKPff8cLM4Vr9qzLBzsZWiF3R%2Fiee85oLvcMbXWHbUKswl1yyWP7totkeUhqo3O0uTp6BYrnR20D6gHq5w5NxcB%2FQhMbkzxwjqdeasgaDTuOi154WFD4QJqrqNc%2FybTMvb%2FHYNThF4d38yUwWzXY4kYn076Ax0hSeiGJrbtyo0%2BlsFcA%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBMgLuwsfli Indeed, the negative battery pole connector is engineered so that it's practically impossible to permanently connect anything more to it. It's obviously meant to divert the user to the mass post behind the battery (as per user manual).

I have a voltmeter permanently connected and can confirm that the CTEK MXS 5.0 Recond program does not involve discharging at any stage.

I prefer a broom head, which doesn't trap grit.

The Haldex type system ingages/disengages AWD automatically, as required. There is no option for the driver to switch AWD off.

(Too late to edit the above post) To consider though that the chains compatible rims above are 6J wide.

The 215/60 R16 wheels are the only ones that can take snow chains 12 mm thick. So there is room all around those.

I use 225/55 R17 in the summer and 215/60 R16 in winter. Very good feeling with both. Even when (occasionally) I push it in manual on a windy road uphill, close to where I live.

The Skoda approved 17" tyre sizes for Karoq are 215/55 R17 and 225/55 R17 (for 4x4).

I remember that phenomenon from the 2005 Octavia, must check with my current 2019 Karoq.

Battery SOC = Battery State of Charge Battery SOH = Battery State of Health (remaining battery capacity as a % of nominal)

https://lubrication-management.com/en/2017/05/11/what-effects-does-oxidation-have-on-lubricant-oil/

Can that compare to churning it for hours at 90 C?

But the oil has already deteriorated from oxidizing.

With 1 litre over for a relatively long time, all the oil has been thoroughly aerated. I would certainly do an oil change ASAP. The peace of mind alone is worth the cost.

Haha, I was referring to the "no charge" part...

Shocks: weepage (misting) vs. leak. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kEoq7l0TXKM

In Slovenia, the first aid kits expire after 5 years and their expiry date gets checked at MOT.

So much for gender equality... 😉

I rate myself as being pretty susceptible to side to side rocking but I don't feel it on my 4x4 Karoq with independent rear suspension.

I'd try a different battery brand, following the battery change instructions to the letter.

Re the launch control function that Sanqhar mentioned (earlier I called it "launch start", from memory): It's effective (although still not immediate!), but it's a quick start that doesn't feel under my full control. Can be a little scary in a turn start.

That's what I did. Not so much of a sacrifice at 79.

My 1.5 TSI is slow to respond from a standstill too. With a manual transmission, you can rev the engine up before you let the clutch in. With DSG, it's the computer that determines at which revs the clutch will engage. And it always does that early, before the turbo reaches it's threshold. Hence slow starts. Disabling S/S doesn't help for me, neither does much the Sport mode, only "launch start" does, but I do it in extreme situations only.

Great find FabFabFabia! So mine is cam belt as well.