agedbriar

How do I check if I have the alarm installed on my MY19 or not?

No abnormal tyre wear here either.

It's Bosch Aerotwin A864S for the UK vs. Bosch Aerotwin A863S for the Continent.

That's the prevalent strategy here.

By unlocking it with the remote button, which also re-enables KESSY (so you can start the engine e.g.).

Actually, the lag is the problem - after that the acceleration can be quite decent in my stock version. With no wheel-spin, courtesy of 4x4. If the lag is entirely turbo-lag, then I doubt it's possible to eliminate it (except by setting idle to 1500 rpm).

Is there any difference in clutch wear when you wait at red lights with DSG left in Drive (as suggested in the manual) and you either: - keep the brake pedal pressed, - have Auto Brake on, or - have Electronic Hand Brake on?

Staying tuned...

I just got my 2019 Karoq TSI 1.5 DSG 4x4 back from its third annual official service. On both previous instances Castrol 5W-40 had been used, while today they used the 0W-20. To my remark that I would have rather stayed with 5W-40, as I feel uneasy with such a thin oil as 0W-20, they replied that the factory has changed the engine oil specifications. New to me was also the info that when the Haldex clutch oil is changed, the related oil filter also needs to be cleaned. (Just a hint to the DIYer.)

That's my car's twin. According to the onboard computer, I'm getting about 37 mpg, with 80% extra-urban drive, but hilly country.

In fact it is, by Škoda specs.

I once pushed mine - in ideal weather and road conditions - for a short time to 190 km/h. Felt nice and stable.

Also, the negative clamp from the charger goes to the flat mass connection point behind the battery, rather than to the negative battery post.

Actually, I did some practicing on left foot braking over one year ago, but I desisted when I found out that the use of Auto brake mitigated considerably the fast-moving traffic joining problem, which was my main issue. It will be interesting to see if the launching operation can be executed also in the much less extreme way (depress each pedal, but not fully) that the tight turn requires. Could Sport mode be the condition? Or pressing the gas pedal end-switch?

"Rocker switches under the multifunction steering wheel", by the manual's terminology.

This 2019 Karoq is my first car with DSG, which I love for obvious driving comfort and shifting smoothness. I use the shifting pallets only when I feel the urge to prove to myself that I'm still the boss. My only gripe is its inability to overcome the turbo lag. It took me quite some time to find out how much the use of Auto brake helps in this regard. In fact, when you want to jump into a gap within fast-moving traffic, it lets you press the gas pedal in advance, without laterally creeping into the car you have chosen to follow. Unfortunately, the turbo lag is still disturbing in other instances, like when you pass from braking to accelerating in a slow tight turn. So, spurred by this recent video by John Cadogan (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TT9K1vMqd5c) I thought that it might be time for me (at 78) to learn left-foot braking. I would like to hear about other people's experience on this.

My son-in-law had the same problem on his VW Touran with conventional locking. The driver's door lock was replaced under warranty.

No experience with VCDS, but this makes sense to me.

... of a great car!

0.0 A is the correctly rounded notation of any current of up to 50 mA.

For that and the body of a God, the Karoq is a blessing. Add the reversing camera for a stiff neck. And don't ask how I know.

I have the internal voltmeter connected to the cigarette lighter socket, which on my Karoq is permanently live. That's why I say that I'm contributing to battery drain with the constant 8 mA that the LED V-meter draws. My goal is to keep the battery healthy by connecting it to the external charger before its no-load voltage drops to 12.4 V, where sulfation starts.

The wait is required only when seeking the highest (closest to no-load) voltage reading. If you choose to keep monitoring the voltmeter display, you may see the voltage reach a stable maximum sooner than that. There could be some difference in systems response due to the fact that to access the bonnet release lever I open the driver's door. Anyway, my point was that the voltage read after the driver enters the car is too far from the no-load voltage to be used to determine the battery SOC.

After opening the bonnet and locking the car, you should wait at least 15-20 min for all the systems to go into standby again and the battery recovers, so you get the maximum voltage reading.

To properly derive the battery state of charge from its voltage, the latter must be measured with the battery in a no-load state. Through the closed window of my KESSY Karoq, which has been resting for several hours, I can read the internal voltmeter displaying 12.6 V. When I only unlock and open the driver's door, the voltage drops to 12,2 V in a few seconds. While the first reading is questionable, the second reading is definitely useless for SOC determination.