Alasdair1

Got this from gates online 1U5 RS 1.8 T FWD Estate, AUQ engine.

Reckon its inside out and maybe wrong fitting. What engine do you have in the car Alasdair

The code may be in the cars book orr perhaps in glovebox. If its not then I think either skoda dealer or I did see a google app that can find it from serial number. There are a few sites that can find it but they cost you. Alasdair

Does look like the belt is inside out. It should sit in the grooves on the alternator pulley and the crank pulley. Either that or something is out of alignment and pushing it off. If its not in the grooves the slightest misalignment would cause it to slip off. Alasdair

Depends who did the cylinder head etc. If it was done by a decent engine specialist with a waranty then reckon it would be ok. If it was done by his mate??? I have a 1.9tdi pd which has given me no trouble apart from stuck turbo and a few other age related things. Its done 138k and only reason its off the road is corosion. I used to get 50-60mpg. Now have a 1.6tdi which I struggle to get 50mpg. No problems at all so far. Both had a very good service history. I noticed from a previous post its had 9 owners. For a car with such low mileage I would wonder why its been sold on so many times? Perhaps quick fix and get rid of. Also he lists it as a 1.8 but also list engine size as 1968? If its got a good service history and the repairs have been done properly with receipts and waranty it may be ok. Price probably isnt too bad considering the price of second hand cars these days but 9 owners would worry me.

Might be worth asking the mechanics at your local skoda dealer. They may have come accross it before. Doubt the parts department would be able to help unless they sold one.I had a check on my o8 plate but can't see anything like it. Just wondering if its an aftermarket part or a non skoda addition. My old mechanics had a hydrogen cell in his dads that was in front of rad. Something to do with cleaner burning and better MPG. Never seen one before. Let us know if you find out. Its got me stumped but I would love to know what it is.

Would it be something to do with cornering lights if its using the same cable channel as the fog lights and Are the wires the same colour if you trace back. I am seeing red or brown, white and blue from your picture. Had a look in my haynes but it doesnt cover the cornering wiring. Alasdair

The Apec one if you can get it should be ok. The others maybe not. I hadnt heard of GSP so checked and they are I think now Chinese with varying feed back especially failure of cv shafts. For a short term fix If the tear/split is small then try cleaning with brake cleaner so you have no grease on the split surface and you can get gator rubber adhesive but I have heard superlglue works quite well for a short term fix. You can get split gators that glue together to save you removing shaft but never had much faith in them. Think their good for a quick fix. Unless the CV joint is clicking/rumbling when they check the wheel bearings etc I think you should be ok. Make sure you clean up all the black grease etc before the mot. Unless its leaking I can't see them failing you on it. Alasdair

Glad you have something to work on and hopefully will cure it. My sons fabia 1.2 had a very slight exhaust leak between front and rear box. Last MOT its emissions were off the scale. Mechanic mate who is now an MOT tester sealed it up with some black sealant and it passsed no probs. Its amazing how a tiny leak can cause such major problems. Alasdair

I find that as long as you take your time and label bolts etc even the big awkward jobs are doable and not too bad. I am a stickler for everything going back exactly the way it was and torqued up properly. The number of times I have found things missing or nuts without washers loose bolts etc when I have put cars into garages or worse if its been a body repair shop!!! Drives me mad. If your changing or repairing it needs to be done right. Worse job I tackled was a toyota lucida turbo diesel cylinder head. Its mid engined under the seats and has an aux drive shaft to the front so you work in the vehicle then underneath and so on. I think from memory its around 250-300 nuts and bolts to remove seats and floor pan,then manifolds/turbo, head, rocker cover camshaft etc and timing belt as your as well changing it while its apart. Managed eventually and had none left over when put back together. Loads of bits of cardboard with holes to remind me as the bolts are all different lengths. I still have it but not on the road right now as 30MPG on a good day plus £400 road tax was getting too much. Pity as its an amazing people carrier to drive. Well done Alasdair

You may have to try and trace back wiring to see where it goes to. Will have a look on mine tomorrow if I can. Will be servicing my mk2 12 plate hopefully tomorrrow so while the undertray is off will have a look to see whats fitted in that area Alasdair

I reckon mine cost about £180-£200 pounds in total which was a lot cheaper than the £700 quote I got from the only mobile mechanic that answered my messages. Wasn't too sure it was the clutch that had instantly failed or gearbox. Suddenly no drive at all with no prior slipping. Luckily clutch disc had totalled itself on the pressure plate side. All that was left was shiny metal and a pile of clutch disc shavings in and around the starter motor. Don't know what a garage would charge these days. Cars now done around 800 miles so reckon I maanaged to do job ok. That shim is a nightmare. It gets caught on everything. I suppose their sealed for life (100,000miles/10 years). As long as it lasts the waranty skoda will be happy. Alasdair

Are there any part numbers or are they on the bits that are missing . Cant remember seeing anything like that on my 08 1.9tdi so maybe something to do with 4x4? Alasdair

I hadent heard of GSP but have seen them mentioned on some other sites as not lasting very long. I fit Febi/blueprint. I find them a decent intermediate brand. Have heard good reports about Apec as well. Have had a couple of bearings on now for two years plus discs. Parts in motion do sell drive shafts but just noticed yours is the VRS so may be different. I tried checking Febi parts finder for fabia 1.9tdi vrs but couldn't find VRS. Apec catalogue lists the following ADS1309L left side and ADS1310R right side. They are listed under !.9TDI RS 130BHP 2003-2008 but not sure if its the same as VRS or the age of yours or engine. If there the correct ones for your car then parts in motion stock them for around £80-00 for complete shaft. https://apecautomotive.co.uk/catalogue/

Sorry about the incomplete post. Laptop is old and does random things by itself. The motor that retracts the mirrors may be sticking at a certain point. Similar to when the rear wiper sticks. Had similar on a seat altea. I disabled the auto fold option as the cost of a new aftermarket one was I think around £150 and that would need painted. Couldn't find a second hand one at the time. If it closes or opens with the key then it may be wiring/control problem. Alasdair

Maybe the motor/gear is failing. I would turn the

I have the same on my 12 plate. Tried all the usual methods but now seems to be both headlights. Was thinking of using the windscreen seek and seal. Reckon taking headlights out and bringing them indoors in a warm room till they dry and then use the sealant. Alasdair

Could be the universal joints in steering column. Volvo 940 were bad for them wearing and making a click/clunk sound. Not sure about skoda but volvo were replaceable. Alasdair

Did read online about a free google app. Not sure if it works. Won't download to my laptop. May need a phone. https://play.google.com/store/apps/dev?id=4797224868258853173&hl=en_GB

Sorry missed the link but a tenner is pretty good if the dealer is charging 50! Alasdair

If I remember you need the serial number of the radio and the VIN from the car it came from for the dealer. If you know the car it came from the code could be in the glove box or in the cars book if its still there. They are I think 4 digits so if you haven't already try 0000 or 1234 as they are sometimes default codes and havent been changed. If not there are a few online that say they can do it from just the serial number. Not sure of cost though. https://www.onlineradiocodes.co.uk/skoda-radio-codes plus have a look on ebay. Alasdair

Main dealer may be able to help if its the original radio for car. They managed to find mine from the Reg and vin but the car had been bought oriinally from them. Alasdair

All the fault codes seem to point to ECU or ecu related. Might be worth dissconnecting cleaning and reconnecting ecu main connector plus check main ECU fuse. If its not blown I would remove and check the contacts as well for corosion. I think there is an ECU relay as well but not sure which one. I believe its under the bonnet. I would disconnect battery and touch cables together before removing or disconnecting anything to be on the safe side. Alasdair

I think it drains all stored residual voltage/current in ECU. When its powered up again it doses a proper restart. Had an imobiliser stuck on and it couldn't be removed. Mechanic mate said try it and it worked. You may still have to clear the fault codes first but try the battery trick first. Alasdair

Many thanks Pete, Serviced light been on a few weeks but not doing much mileage. Going to service next week once wheel bearing arrives Alasdair