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Alasdair1

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Everything posted by Alasdair1

  1. Not sure think they are ABS . There may well be a recycle/symbol stamped into moulding. Alasdair
  2. Glad its sorted and they just blanked off the LED. Years ago I did a similar thing on an old volvo re airbags, I bypassed the led and connected it to the oil light so it came on with ignition and went off when engine running. Alasdair
  3. I think its possible to check DMF throuh starter motor hole but as theres no vibration/noise its hopefully ok. Was the noise there all the time or only when you changed gear? If it happend when changing gear it could be a sticking release bearing? or perhaps a failing slave cylinder and what you were hearing was gears crunching slightly Hope its a one of or a simple fix. Alasdair
  4. The DMF usually starts rattling away before it fails completely and you can get a judder when taking off. If it does fail it can be catastrophic and wreck gearbox etc but if it was done 5 years ago unless the car has done huge mileage per year I doubt it would be going again. Mines on 120,000 with original clutch and no noises from Gbox etc. I may be wrong but I can't see bumpy roads affecting it at all unless it was badly fitted and has become loose but as the sound has gone again I doubt it. I would monitor it and get it checked out by a reputable garage and see how it goes. Get them to check that all the Gbox to engine bolts etc aare tight. Hopefully it was perhaps something wrapped round a drive shaft that has cleared itself.
  5. I would say rears are new but front been on for a while. Front don't look too bad. Do not take the car to anyone else as as soon as someone else even looks at it I bet the dealer will dig there heels in and say their waranty if theres any is void.. If your not happy then I would take it back for a refund. Alasdair
  6. The oil change now might point to a faulty oil pressure sensor. Are there any fault codes stored? Another simple point would be the battery either bad connection or low voltage/failing. My octavia did weird things when my battery was failing. Dash lit up like a christmas tree with loads of warnings. Alasdair
  7. I reckon the caddy would be similar to do. As said worth a try. Alasdair
  8. Might be a loose or blown fuse thats causing the problem. Not sure which one does fuel pump etc but I think theres also a fuel pump control unit as well under rear seats on top of tank on some models. Alasdair
  9. I have been thinking in getting it too. No idea how easy it is to use though. I did read that you have to retrieve the ecu pin and data from the old cluster first. After that no idea. There will be a tutorial online somewhere or someone on here may know. Good lucck Alasdair
  10. Try squeezing the top rad hose and holding for a few secs then release and keep doing it for a while. Had a similar problem when I changed timing belt/waterpump on my old 1.9tdi. After a while I got a rush of bubbles into expansion tank. Think the air was in the heater matrix. Topped up and it was fine after that.
  11. Not good at all. Hopefully they will honour there mistake and refund you. Alasdair
  12. Not sure but at that price might be worth a go. Maybe someone on here could confirm fitment. It would also need to be coded to your car. Think you need VCDS to do it. Alasdair
  13. Didn't realise it does not have a temp guage. I always thought that was a daft idea. No way of telling temp is on the way up until it comes on. Ok if you can pull over but a nightmare if you cant,
  14. Might be worth seeing if its repairable. If you fit a new one it will need to recoded etc. I looked at getting my octavia mk2 repaired but fortunately it was just the connector at rear that needed cleaned and reseated. I think it was about £180 Alasdair
  15. Check you don't have a chunk missing of the front spring. I had one that clonked at full lock as the bottom coil was missing about 2" and It didn't sit well in strut and clonked away at full lock. Alasdair
  16. My folks had one of the last MK1 1.9tdi estate. It was a fantastic car with more torque and power than you really needed. It would tow anything and went like a train plus got 60mpg and no dpf. It had analogue dash. Perhaps some of the late MK1 petrol would be compatible. Not sure if the dash is the same as pre facelift mk2 Alasdair
  17. Not sure but I believe if yours is petrol it has to be from a petrol car and vive versa re diesel. Something to do with different imobilser. Alasdair
  18. If its a failed mount and the engine is dropping 2" on gearbox end I cant see any way it would rise up again. It might be a failed top mount on front strut. Gearbox mount is fairly easy to replace anyway. Raise gearbox slightly and support. I have a cross engine bar with lifting chains and loosen bolts. Remove and replace with new. You may have to remove battery and tray to get access. and you may also have to remove dogbone to get enough clearance movement. Alasdair
  19. Could very well just be a pipe union thats not been tightened properly if it was only replaced last year. Alasdair
  20. On my MK2 I used a spoon to prise them off but not sure re MK1. If you replace the cluster with an other one it will need to be recoded. also if I remember I read on rostech forum it has to be from the same car ie if yours is petrol vrs then must come from a petrol vrs and vice versa re diesel. Something about different imobilizers. It might be worth getting your cluster repaired or at least a quote first. Alasdair
  21. If the clutch still works then its probably ABS or pipe thats perhaps been rubbing and worn through or connections. As its high up it should be fairly easy to spot. Give the whole area a good clean with brake cleaner and let dry. Makes it easier to spot where the leak is. Alasdair
  22. Good luck finding where its coming from. Hopefuly its just a brake union thats become loose. Might be worth checking the pipe that supplies the clutch as well. Alasdair
  23. Glad you got it traced and lucky it partly failed. I would be worried why no low brake fluid warning? unless its drawn in air with still enough fluid in tank Alasdair
  24. I think it depends on how well its serviced. My sons has done about the same and its an 06 plate 1.2HTP with no signs of rattle etc. Had to do a few things like brakes etc and a clutch (probably been owned by an elderly person before due to the low mileage who was slipping clutch) but I would expect these things on an older car. Did read that if the wrong oil or not changed/serviced regularly it can affect the chain. If its cheap enough then I would go for it as long as theres no obvious signs of problems. I drive an Octavia but I really like his fabia. Its pretty nippy around town and great to drive plus fairly easy to work on and mpg is pretty good plus its got a good sized boot unlike most of the other small cars these days. Alasdair
  25. I fitted apec ones to my sons as they were a lot cheaper than the dealer. Used Apec braking parts before and been uite happy with them. I always put a bit of coppaslip on the bleed screw on new ones for future remova. Alasdair

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