Alasdair1

I assume you mean driving in gear and not with foot on clutch and in gear. If the timing is way out and if you have beeen lucky and not damaged valves I reckon you would be well down on engine power which could stall it. With that noise its like something like a chain slapping off something or similar. What mileage is the car and has it had a timing chain done in the past As said don't run it till you find out whats gone wrong. You could be lucky and have minimal damage so far. A chain kit is a lot cheaper than a head rebuild or engine swap. Alasdair

Perhaps try the vcds genuine cable. As said I am just learning but have seen a lot of posts re ross tech forums and they seem very helpful. So far I'm maanaging with my cheap chinese vag401 reader but reckon I will need to get the genuine VCDS at some point. Alasdair.

Does sound like somthing is hitting something and not very healthy at all. I would get a compression test done ASAP and if its good then take it from there. Try a length of garden hose. One end to your ear and move the other around engine to see if you can narrow down where the noise is coming from. Could even be broken valve springs or very loose timing chain. Not sure if your engine has a balance chain/oilpump? I wouldn't be running it at all until the chain is checked. It may have just jumped one or two teeth and not caused too much damage but if its jumped once it probably will jump again!! I once had an alternator bearing fail and the tension on the belt puled the alternator pulley/fan so it was hitting alternator body making exactly the same sound. Not bad at idle but worse the more revs I gave it. Alasdair

Wonder if that certain garage follows briskoda? Glad you got it sorted.

Is the VAG commander cable a genuine one? I have been looking at VCDS or VAG commander etc as I seem to be collecting skodas and seat with problems. Been reading that there are a few copies of VAG commander cable on ebay that have caused problems or just don't work. Also found out thats VCDS lite doesnt seem to work with CAN BUS cars. Not sure about VAG commander. Looks like I will have to purchase VCDS and due to the number of cars I have sitting with faults will have to be the enthusiast version with upto 10 VIN as my daughter plus son in law also have VW with problems. Have a cheap chinese fault reader thats great for cancelling error codes but very slow so reckon I could do with something easier to use and a bit more advanced. Next step will be learning how to use it and not mess up the car while I'm at it. There might be someone local to you on here with VCDS that could pull the codes for you. Alasdair

Found this on GOV website. https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/cancelling-goods-or-services-guide-for-consumers/cancelling-goods-or-services Heres an etract. Businesses can keep your deposit or advance payments, or ask you to pay a cancellation charge, only in certain circumstances If you cancel the contract, the business is generally only entitled to keep or receive an amount sufficient to cover their actual losses that directly result from your cancellation (eg costs already incurred or loss of profit). Businesses must take reasonable steps to reduce their losses (eg by re-selling the goods or services). Non-refundable deposits should only be a small percentage of the total price. Cancellation charges must be a genuine estimate of the business’ direct loss. Worth a quick read and perhaps a call/visit to citizens advice. If its done online then 14 day cooling off option. If its done at the dealers then you get none. Reckon they should have given you or emailed a copy of the contract. You could also try https://www.themotorombudsman.org/ to see if there is anything they can do. Alasdair

Could be a sticking solanoid. If sitting for a while especially when cold it could stick/jam and then release after a few secs. Once free it may start ok then seize up again after sitting for a while. Had one on an old merc van that did this and eventually didn't operate enough to hit the starter contacts. Was worse in cold weather as it had water ingress which froe. New solanoid and it was good for years. Could also be worn contacts in the starter itself. Alasdair

Metal in oil is never a good sign. Hopefully its a simple fix. Still dont see why a bad bearing would cause misfire unless its completely gone but if theres metal in the filter then something has worn. Hope the weather gets better for you Alasdair

Sons clutch disentegrated and a lot of the clutch fibres ended up in and around starter motor so quite possible it could jam the engage of the starter What are the symptoms of the starter failing If the clutch and dmf have just been changed check wiring is tight and secure. It wouldn't be the first time a terminal hasn't been tightned properly after a clutch change. Alasdair

Check the connections to starter for corosion and earth straps etc. If the starter is running slow then either lack of current or perhaps coils in starter failing. Alasdair

I have a 1.9tdi that I know two glow plugs are failed/failing but it turns over instantly before the glow plug symbol disapears. In cold weather its a bit lumpy for about 15 secs till it warms up. Might be as simple as a failing ignition switch or starter relay. Think its in fuse box in engine bay or under dash . Check the terminals for corosion and maybe replace it. Alasdair

Know the feeling. Seems to be freezing and cold every time they break down. Had to do my sons clutch in -5C. Gave up a few times when spanners were freezing to my hands. Waiting for it to warm up a bit to do the bearing and drop links etc on my 12 plate Octavia. At least I got a space cleared in a large open shed but still damn cold. As said get it scanned. It might ping up something fairly simple or narrow it down a bit. Alasdair

Could be a worn crankshaft or crank sensor thats causing the misfire? I would get it scanned for fault codes and perhaps a compression test to see if one or two of the cylinders are down on compression. Check the inlet exhaust manifold gaskets as well. Could be a blown exhaust gasket you are hearing. Alasdair

Yep if only they galvanized the sub frame or perhaps made them of alloy. I got Febi swing arms as they were cheaper and car is pretty past it with corosion. Going try and get an MOT and use it as a shed/works car. Got a mk2 1.6tdi to keep me going but I prefer the 1,9tdi plus get much better MPG and no DPF!

Totaly agree, My old mk2 rear swing arm bushes are shot and tyres wear to one side. They are really bad and sounds like a rear wheel bearing is going. The offset bolts for adjustment on mine are seized solid. Probably why most places only do a front alignment. I decided to get new swing arms complete with bushes etc and new bolts. Once fitted will get the alignment checked. Main problem will be getting the old ones off. Just hope the subframe passes the MOT

Was going to fit one to my folks old fabia but I'm like you and got into problems. Did read that on some there is a diagnostic wire which shouldn't be connected to aftermarket radio. Think it was pin 3 in the yellow block. The blue block I think is for CD although mine was purple. Another thing was switching lives around. Think red and yellow to stop radio losing stored data. I'm not an expert so I wouldn't go switching wires until someone else confirms it but you could try removing pin 3 wire and see. You could also check if theres an adapter?

I have been running GT radial on my mk2 and also Seat altea xl and found them excellent. They both had Michelin when I got the cars and on both cars the Michelin started to deform and cause wobble while driving. Guy at tyre service said they get a lot of Michelin tyres with the same problem after two to three years they seem to go out of shape but still loads of tread left. GT are Mid range tyre but excellent in wet. My sons got the same but all season on his fabia and there good as well especialy in wet for an all season tyre. Bit cheaper than the Goodyear. Think they were around £70-00 fitted. Alasdair

Unless he let the reservoir run dry I can't see how air would be getting into master cylinder especially when it was the rear calipers that were changed unless the seals are failing on the master and its draiwng in air. If the brakes start getting spongy again I would be thinking of checking for leaks and perhaps changing it. Alasdair

Yes missed out the 01. Local motor factors are very good. They said as its a PD engine its reccomended. Alasdair

Many thanks. Have been using comma 5/30 505 spec in my 1.9tdi but its no DPF so not so critical. I change annually as we do about 8000 miles a year on average. Mainly short runs so bit worried about DPF but so far no probs. Will see if I can pick up a golf haynes for the 1.6tdi. Not sure why haynes skoda didn't cover it. Mannol is a good price compared to some of the others so might give it a go. My local motorfactors sell mainly Comma and also now Napa?? but will ask them. Alasdair

On the MK2 there are different thicknesses of antiroll bar. Maybe the same with the MK1. I read there is also a plastic sleeve which tends to break and disapear. Best option is to measure bar diameter. On my mk2 the bushes are 19mm with sleeve and 21mm without. Alasdair

Just checked febi parts finder and there are two One sided for non aircon but double sided for aircon. (You learn something everyday) Part number for double sided is FEBI 34459 Febi list skoda part numbers 06A 260 849 C ,06A 260 849 B 1195mm long Alasdair

Its grooved on both sides. As said havent come across one on skoda but think the beetle 1.9 has double sided from memory on my daughters old one. Reckon its the wrong belt but may be wrong.

Pretty sure my octavia mk2 1.9tdi is one sided as is my 1.6tdi 12 plate. I always use Gates. Maybe the MK1 is different or perhaps you have the wrong belt. Alasdair Dont suppose there is a part number or manufacturer on the new belt. If its slightly too long it maay not be tensioning properly.

Not sure, Havent come accross one with ribs both sides before. From the gates pic the belt should run on the outside of crank,alternator and power steering but the inside of aircon and tensioner which would explain double sided ribs. Alasdair