Alasdair1

Bushes look a bit past it but if theres no movement should be ok. About as good as mine and they got through an MOT The clunk is when you turn wheel when stopped so doubt it would be them. Best option is to get someone else to listen around car to pinpoint area its coming from. Check its not a top mount as well. Have had a few that click and clunk especially at low speeds/parking Alasdair

Have been looking for years and any site that asks for VIN mine isn't reckognised or the site is infected with some virus etc. Was using 7zap but they now limit the number of times you can look up and its not VIN based. I use Febi parts finder as well as a few other aftermarket ie Apec, schaeffler etc but did find this site recently. https://webautocats.com/etka/skoda/ Havent tried via VIN but seems to be fairly good by entering car details. Just watch for LHD and RHD especially if your ordering from autodoc if your in the UK. Certain parts are LHD/RHD specific I also use http://www.kakapart.com/ for cross ref. So far its been pretty good when it works. Site quite often has problems. It will list aftermarket parts etc in order of compatibilty if an equivalent skoda part is available . Key in the skoda/vw part number and you get a list of alternatives plus I tend to double check everything it tells me before ordering by visting febi,valeo,fram etc sites Alasdair

I thought my sons Fabia we bought was low mileage 06 plate and 60k. 30k in 23 years is really low. Check the drain channels under the front wiper panel/scuttle. They I think can be got to through the wheel arch under plastic liner as well. They can become blocked and you get moisture in the front of car. If theres dampness in car then it may well be corosion/tarnishing at the rear of cluster or dry solder joints. As for the horn not sure. Maybe it will come back once the cluster is working ok. It may be the contacts in the steering wheel that have stopped working due to lack of use. My folks was like that as they never used the horn. As said remember to disconnect battery before removing cluster as it can imobilise the car if removed otherwise.

Just posted a reply on here under your other post. Alasdair

Had similar with DPF light and Engine management and front fog dash lights on all the time.(slightly dimmer than others) on my Ocatvia MK2. I removed cluster and cleaned conector then reconnected and its perfect. Remember to disconnect battery before removing cluster. Reckon the rear cluster connector had become loose or not making proper contact. Might be worth puting 12v accross horn to see if its actually working? Do you have any airbag warning lights on? The horn can stop working when the spiral cable in steering wheel starts failing as well as airbag lights staying on Alasdair

Check MOT history and then look at car again to check failures/advises have been replaced not just tidied or covered up. When looking for a fabia for my son it was shocking the number of cars that had failed MOT in the past with bald tyres/canvas showing ,rust problems worn suspension etc you name it. It can give you an idea if the car has been looked after or not. Theres a lot that are bought cheap ran or thrashed for a while and tidied up with years MOT for selling on. Some of the ones we looked at with years MOT reckon wouldn't last 3-4 months without major work. My old garage used to say a car with an MOT doesn't mean much and can be just slightly better than Scrap. Alasdair

Mine does the same but its the motor thats seizing. Check the earths and contacts

Not sure. I used a bypass kit on mine. It uses one brake but L and R side lights May not be the unit but if you have one fitted check the fuse for the supply. You could always disconnect unit to see if its causing the fault but as said could also be poor earths or dirty contacts for bulbs. On a random occasion I have had bulbs still work but still puts on bulb failure light. They were cheap bulbs I picked up somewwhere. I assume a bad connection or poor earth would change the resistance/current and trigger blown bulb warning. Alasdair

Do you have a towbar fitted? Mine came on and it was to do with the bypass relay wiring unit. I also have the same problem with the high level brake light as its an aftermarket one and must be slightly different wattage. It could also be a bad contact. Enough to light bulb but confusing the system. Check theres no corosion etc. Alasdair

Its typical when that happens. My Seat imobilser was stuck on so ended up buying a Skoda octavia to keep me going. Its a very long story!!. The Seat was sitting with battery disconected over December a few years back. Start of Jan I thouht I try again charged baattery and perfect. No codes nothing. Started first time. Wonder if the ECU had a blip and needed to be reset, probably never know but Ive never used the spare key again and its never happened again. If you disconnected the ECU and reconnected it it may haave reset it. Hope it doesnt give you any more bother. Alasdair

Had the same in a Seat 1.9tdi. The imobilizer came on after using the spare fob. The transponder chip in the spare key had failed at some point before I bought the car and didn't realise. My problem was the imobilser stuck on and the other key wouldn't work either. Eventualy after leaving the car battery disconnected for a couple of weeks it started working again after I touched battery cables together when disconnected. You could try another fob if you have one. Make sure you use a fob with the buttons as not sure if the other small key without the buttons has a transponder in it? It could also be the transponder reading coil in the ignition switch that has failed and isn't reading the key. The only other option would be to disable the imobilser in the ECU but you would need VCDS and know how to do it. Not the info thats generally put up on line. If the transponder chip has failed then a car locksmith may be able to retrieve the code and reprogram it for you. Also make sure the car battery is good and fully charged. Alasdair

Sorry can't help. Someone on here may have access to etka or similar or you could try the following. It might help. Look under engine group parts and scroll down to engine cooling diagrams. Not sure which engine you have and also make sure its for a RHD vehicle. https://webautocats.com/etka/skoda/ Alasdair

I normally split the jubilee clip and reassemble around rubber pipe first ,remove spring clamp and slide down over plastic y then replace with jubilee to save losing coolant. You may have enough length on plastic y to use both? If not in my case just left the spring clamp on the plastic pipe. Hope that makes sense Alasdair

I have had the odd spring clamp leak. Try and removing it and replacing with a decent stainless jubilee clip and see if it seals it. The clamps are normally pretty good but if they have been removed and not put back exactly in the same position they can start to leak. Check the condition of the end of the hose as well. Sometimes if its damaged/split you have enough length etc to cut and reuse hose.

Usually quite a few MK1 on ebay breaking for spares or scrapyard. Not so many with roof rails but worth a look. https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/scraplandukrecycledautospares seem to have quite a few skoda. Alasdair

If its anything like the MK2 then not too bad a job. Bearings for mine are around £50-00 for APEC and a but more for FAG/SKF. Yours should hopefully be fairly straight forward as its 2016. My 2008 Mk2 was a bit trickier to get apart due to the age and rust. Ended up cutting bottom ball joint off and replacing it as it was easier. Also had to get a new ABS sensor as there was no way the old one was coming out as it snapped plus replaced flexi brake hose as it started to leak slightly when I was removing caliper. Alasdair

If the Btooth unit isnt under the seats then the Bolero probably doesnt have blue tooth. My son has an 06 fabia and he picked up a blue tooth/fm adapter for the cigarette lighter socket from halfords for about £15 so he can play his music from his phone. The other option would be to retrofit the Bluetooth unit under the seats but not sure how complex that would be. Alasdair

I can't remember if I accessed it through the settings mode on the car or if my local garage turned it off. I think the settings were under convienence/comfort control but you may need VCDS etc to access them. Alasdair

Could very well be a wheel bearing. Had one that showed no sign of play or obvious wear and felt smooth just an annoying hum. Was like that for about 2 years including two MOT before finally ot noticeably worse and I eventually changed it and hum disappeared. Garage couldn't find anything wrong apart from the hum. Alasdair

My octavia 12 plate has small handsfree touch screen right hand of dash with microphone on windrscreen pillar. Not sure if its standard or an added extra. Is there not an AUX port in the pop up box between front seats? My old octavia had a 3.5mm jack connection there and my later SEAT had a USB socket.

Glad you got it sorted. Didn't realise they needed coded. £135 seems a fair price. At least you don't have the annoying fault anymore. Mine used to close up when driving randomly so disabled the folding option. Never did replace it as couldn't get one for my Seat in the same colour plus cars a work horse. Alasdair

Had a quick look and yep seems to be a fault with TDI all the time. Wonder if the repair would fit yours? Also did read to check wiring and connectors back from actuator as it can get damaged by heat and cause probems as well.

Couple of things. Are you losing coolant? it may be a leaking heater matrix. I did have a leak on my folks old mk1. Front passenger and rear passenger carpets RHD car plus carpet wet as it rises under dash. and it was blocked drainage channel under windscreen wipers/scuttle . You can if I remember get to it from the wheel arch as well. Theirs was choked with leaves and gunge plus a couple of old mouse nests. Alasdair

Ive just read a thread that mentions there being different sealant types for the sump and the timing cover... is this true? I must admit this is another topic that I have very little knowledge on, am I able to just use something like this? I have in the past done a Toyota lucida 3cte engine sump which is sealed with special grey silcone and no gasket. Had to remove it to access rotten core plugs. Main problem was removing sump which is in two parts and cleaning up old silcone. I used small craft scalpel to cut slowly between the joins. The special grey sealant was available from Toyota but £50-00 for a small tube. Its supposedly for japanese import vehicles (hence the price). Did a fair bit of research and found Loctite SI5660 would do the same job so used it. I still have the people carrier and its been perfect for years plus I think it cost me about £12-00 online. Its antifreeze and oil resistant.

Sorry didnt realise it was an auto. Havent much experience with them. Maybe the ecu cutting engine due to fault when trying to drive? Have you had it scanned recently for codes? Alasdair