Alasdair1

Another years MOT. Usual suspects fixed before hand. Drop links again! plus new rear discs and pads again! and treated it to a couple of new tyres as they were getting pretty thin. Put it in expecting another list of probs but No advisorys at all. Not bad for a 13 year old car with 113k. Alasdair

Have never come across a general garage thats good with gearboxes especially autos. My old local one was honest when I had problems with my van synchro and said they always just take gearbox out and send it away to a specialist unless its something external or obvious. As for autos the most they would do was change ATF. Alasdair

Might be worth getting it scanned with VCDS. It may well pick up further info on the fault code that the RAC scanner has missed. I have read it could be the switch itself/wiring or problems within the steering wheel electronics. Alasdair

On my old mk2 the interior sensor I think near the light in roof/sunglasses holder was dusty. I hoovered it and alarm stopped going off. Alasdair

I agree with pete. scan it for fault codes first. It could be that its low on ATF or in my case on an old auto the ATF was past it. Should be a nice cherry red. Mine was dirty brown and burnt looking. Changed fluid and back to normal. Alasdair

Not sure if its related but my sons fabia pinged up similar codes with eml on a few days ago. I assumed it was the valve that returns to canister. I cleared codes in meantime to check it wasnt a one of and ordered new valve but also noticed the brake servo hose was split. Repaired it and car now idles perfectly. Previuosly it was a up and down and so far no return of codes or eml. His is a late MK1 and the rigid hose from servo to manifold are prone to splitting over time. Alasdair

Might be the timing thats slightly out. Not sure if its a chain or belt on yours but if its jumped a tooth it would explain the poor running unless the new sensor is either not working or compatible? Another option according to rosstech vcds is that low oil or oil pressure can also ping up the same code? copied from rostech Possible SymptomsMalfunction Indicator Light (MIL) active Possible CausesWiring from/to Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) faulty Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) faulty Timing misaligned Low level oil or low oil pressure Possible SolutionsCheck Wiring from/to Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) Check Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) Check Timing Check Oil level and/or Oil pressure Alasdair

Check the load carry capacity. My mate had a cheap set and he over did it with filling a roof box and it didn't end well. Amazing it didn't hit anyone or another car but went a fair distance down the road when he had to brake suddenly. Alasdair

Reckon a new or known working second hand one will be in order. Don't think they are cleanable. You coud de cat it but would probably cause MOT problems. I got my last one from https://www.cats2u.co.uk It was for an old volvo 940 and price was pretty good. Alasdair

Grey blue smoke is normally oil burning but if you have just changed turbo it might be residual thats burning off. On the other hand if the old turbo seals had failed and it was dumping oil into cat then it could very well be a clogged/damaged cat. Had similar probs with a clogged DPF but the PD dont have one. Might be worth a compression check to see if any cylinders are down on compression just in case the HG has gone. As for the cat I havent had any luck in the past with the cleaner additives and ended up replacing it when they got blocked/damaged. Mine stunk of rotten eggs on my old octavia. Turbo had failed and filled intercooler with oil. Not much smoke when idling but if it was idling for a while when you took off it filled the road with blue grey smoke. Got so bad I had to make sure when I parked I could drive straight on as I couldn't see to reverse. Had no engine light but was down on power like limp mode A random and probably not thought is the timing might have jumped a tooth? When was the belt changed last? Alasdair

On my MK2 the central locking does drivers door and requires a second and sometime third press of fob to open boot. Just wondering if yours is the same? Alasdair

I assume if it was a short that was losing the 9volts it would blow the fuse. Might be worth checking the fuses arent loose or coroded as well . As said under no load even one strand of wire would read 12v.

Did read somewhere re resetting steering torque sensor and also steering angle sensor but I think it required VCDS. Not sure how to do it but someone on here may shed some light on it Alasdair

Try https://tiresize.com/comparison/ The black rims tyres are wider by 1.2" and they are 0.5" taller. It will also depend on the offset of the black rims. You could try fitting them and take a careful test drive. I assume they are the same centre bore and PCD Alasdair

May be low voltage due to a bad connection with some corosion or perhaps a poor earth. If theres 3volt there the wire I assume is still intact . Alasdair

Many thanks will have a good look. Its split at every connection. I did tape it up but not getting a decent seal. Car pinged up EML Read codes with a cheap reader and reset and so far hasn't returned. Not sure if they are related 16825 EVAP emission control sys incorrect flow sporadic 16490 Manifold pressure sensor G71/F96 implausible signal sporadic 16891 Idle control system rpm higher than expected sporadic Checked all pipes and they seem fine but servo pipe not good. Taped it up again and so far so good but needs replaced. Thanks again Alasdair

Hi there been trying to find a part number for the rigid plastic hose from brake servo to manifold including non return valve. Does anyone know the part number or an equivalent flexible hose as mine is completey gone. Its an 06 plate fabia mk1 1.2HTP. RHD Thanks Alasdair

Have been using Parts in Motion. https://www.partsinmotion.co.uk/ Have found their prices excellent and also normally delivery within 48 hrs with me. Check that there arent any OEM stickers left on the front shocks etc Alasdair

Thanks for the above. Reckon its 20.7 but as said difficult to measure as most paint missing and pretty rusty. May have to bit the bullet and remove bushing first and hopefully its not rusty underneath bushes so I can get an accurate measurement. Another option would be to replace the roll bar as its getting past it and just go for the 21.7 unless there is a difference in bars. Alasdair

Hi there. My rear antiroll bar bushes are shot and I need new ones. Problem is the PR code for the size is missing on my sticker. The bar itself is very rusty with flaky thick paint. I have tried to measure it but not sure as said rusty and thick flaking paint so could be 21mm without paint or or 22mm with??. Anyone have any idea which size I need. Its a 12 plate 1.6tdi estate. Alasdair

Perhaps the original parts fitted were very good but I am finding that the parts that skoda supply as so called Skoda OEM don't last nearly as long as the originals. Front shocks on my old Octavia were replaced with genuine Skoda just before I bought it and they started leaking after 2 years as well as ball joints failing in the same time. The originals managed to last 10 years and 100k Alasdair

Not sure but might be pulleys. I would remove belt and check for play/roughness. It may be a failing water pump as well but the pulleys/belt would be the easiest to start with. Sounds more of a knock than a rattle Alasdair

Happened to my mum. AA came and used an air wedge to open top of door slightly to get a rod to unlock the car from inside by hitting button. You could also try and see if you can hit the window down button as well as the keys are in the ignition so windows should work. Door top needed a slight pull to get it to seal properly again. Not sure if its possible to force window down enough to gain access to buttons on door. Alasdair

Double check the strip fuses for hairline cracks as well as getting it scanned. The crack on my sons was almost invisible until I removed fuse and it broke in two. Cant remember which one but there in front of battery, Alasdair

Sons 1.2 fabia did this and it was a crack in the strip fuse in front of battery. Would start and run for a while then beep and warning lights. His had ABS and brake warning light but not the EPS if I remember. Car seemed fine to drive. Restart and it was ok sometimes then beep again and lights with no stored fault codes. Crack was so fine you could hardley see it. Alasdair