Alasdair1

Compression test seems pretty even. Not sure what it should be but they all are pretty near equal. Your engine seems from the photos pretty clean. As your losing/using so much I would expect a leak that is causing the problem to be pretty noticeable. I was thinking that it might be valve stems seals if not the piston rings. The plug looks pretty oily and worn. You could try a leak down test. Have seen cheap ones online. Alasdair

I agree with OE stuff lasting well. Problem is the new OE doesn't seem to last anywhere as near as long as the original even if you get it from Skoda. Never bothered on my old volvo 940 as they were non interference engines. Snapped one once and did no damage. I suppose if you have the car from new you know whats been fitted. Had a Toyota lucida which had a Sunny belt (I assume cheap chinese rubbish) fitted by previous owner. No way of inspecting it either. It was only 3 years old and completely cracked and worn. Dodged a bullet that day. Alasdair

I do mine myself. Bought the locking tools etc. My Gates kit including pump etc was £90-00 plus new coolant and replaced alternatorr belt at same time. and an oil change etc Took a while the first time. Interesting to see what a garage will charge, When I changed it the old belt was still good but the tensioner/pully had a bit of play. Alasdair

Just remembered you can look up Sachs/ZF catalogue using numberplate. Not sure if it will work due to where you are. It may help narrow it down for you. Have come accross a few errors on autodoc in the past. I always double check with the manufacturer catalogue https://aftermarket.zf.com/en/aftermarket-portal/our-brands/sachs/ Alasdair

There seems to be a huge difference in cambelt changing advice. If it costs you £300 and you work out how much per mile its cost you its 0.5pence per mile over 60,000. I change mine every 5 years or 60,000. I have always used Gates kits. 0.5p per mile is a lot cheaper or in my case works out about £1-00 a week than a new engine. Alasdair

Dont suppose you have an oil cooler? The haynes manual is 1.8litres for the 1.9tdi. Doesn't cover the 1.6tdi but 1 litre doesnt seem right unless theres another fill point higher up or a lower drain plug? Alasdair

I use KYB shocks etc and have done for years and find their shocks/springs and catalogue pretty good. Their shocks and springs are on a few of my cars and no problems so far .https://kyb-europe.com/catalogue/ If I remember there were two types on my 1.9tdi. 50mm diam strut 22mm rod and 55 diam strut 25mm rod. The following came up for your car if I got the correct one on their online lookup KYB324703 50mm/22mm KYB325700 55mm/25mm The part number1T0413031JD comes up with KYB335808 55mm/25mm which is not listed in online lookup for your car but? In there pdf catalogue they all show up so I assume they are compatible KYB335808 55mm/25mm KYB334834 50mm/22mm KYB324703 50mm/22mm KYB325700 55mm/22mm Have a good look to see if theres an OEM label left on either of yours. Think its on or near the flattened section of strut. Had the same problem when looking for mine and as said was lucky. Managed to make one label from what was left on both sides. Alasdair

Maybe something to do with colour or finish? Alasdair

From memory its 9days or 2900 miles before service whichever comes first. Must be on an annual service program Alasdair

I would get top mounts as well while your at it. Not sure if the shocks correct but seems to match your build code. Just realised where you are. Hope you don't have to return anything. Alasdair

I was lucky and found a VAG label left on mine that I could just read part number. The PR code label is missing on my car and none in the handbook either. Alasdair

Few on ebay that are breaking with roof bars. Not sure what they want for them. You could also try breakerlink or similar. Alasdair

Are you sure its the cluster and not the connector to the cluster or wiring. If I remember you said the car was damp inside. Sounds like either a bad supply or earth somewhere unless its a dry joint etc. There a few companies that will check and repair cluster for you. https://www.autotronics.co.uk/ (have never used them but they are £125 at the moment. They should also be able to check the cluster for you and tell you if it needs repairing The spiral cable I think you can get a replacement flat cable for instead of replacing entire unit. Not sure how tricky it is to replace. Before sending cluster have you checked the condition of the fuses that supply the cluster. On my sons mk1 its fuse no1 I think. If theres corosion/loose it can cause the same fault. Alasdair

I picked up a cheap set of locking tools for my 1.9tdi off amazon. First belt I have done on a FWD. Had volvo940 for years before and was a bit worried it was going to be a huge job but not too bad once you get started. Just make sure you use a decent belt/waterpump kit. I generally use gates and have done so for years. Change them every 50-60k . I followed Haynes for mine and it went very well. Have done 3 now with no problems. You may have to get a set of triple square spline bits . I got this set off amazon and so far been pretty good especially fo the price. Managed to get very rusted bearing bolts off without breaking them.

Hopefully the smoke will gradually go. Had a volvo 940 with leaking turbo and it took a while for smoking to clear after I changed it. The DPF may have got too much oil into it. Hopefully it will regen and clear itself once cars back on road. I just ordered some wynns extreme diesel cleaner for mine as I had to move a pipe to change oil and it was pretty carboned up inside. Might be an idea to chuck an additive in the tank to see if it helps. Alasdair

Least you have found out where the metal filings came from. Hopefully an engine flush plus oil change and filter will catch any that are still there.

Many thanks. Over the years the brands that seem to last as everything else have got poorer. My old garage stopped fitting first line due to poor rubber and quality and Borg and beck as they are owned by firstline. they said fine for an MOT but customers were coming back within a year looking for replacements. Will probably go with febi/blueprint unless someone on here has good reckomendation. As you said you don't know who is actually making them. They could all be coming from the same factory and then labelled and boxed for different brands. I fitted firstline to an old volvo 940 a few years ago . Comlete front end suspension/bushes etc and they lasted just over a year. Might try Skoda to see what their prices are like but wether they are the same now as fitted to the car who knows. Alasdair

Hi there I need to replace a few if not all the rear bushes on my mk2 octavia. What make is your go to for quality and reliability. Been using Febi for drop links etc but finding they aren't lasting as long as they used to. Never had much faith in firstline or napa etc. Don't want to go down the polybush route due to cost. Alasdair

Will have a good look at rear. Did check and there didn't seem to be any play but difficult to tell. Just replaced drop links at front due to clunk. No play in old drop links but clunk has gone so it doesn't take much wear to affect it. Still to do drop links at rear as they are clunking over bumps so will have a good look while I am at it. Does feel wobble is from the front but it could be the rear which would explain no feeling through steering wheel. The only bushes at the front thats left that I havent checked replaced are the two in the subframe which look like a pain to change. Don't really want to remove frame as have read aligning again is difficult.

I suppose it could but I use very little copper slip, Just enough to coat threads. It makes removal a lot easier and I generally find once its applied I don't have to do it again. Never had any problems and always use a decent torque wrench. I have never seen a tyre service use a torque wrench. They usually use an air gun followed by a breaker bar. Have had a few wheel bolts that have seized over time and been an absolute nightmare to get off. Worst was on an old ford Fiesta which snapped at the side of the road. Had to drive it home with three bolts. Alasdair

I agree the ride height is a lot more. Wonder if previous owner has changed front suspension or put a lift kit on it or wrong front struts/springs on it. If its done wrong it would explain position of wheel? Have a look at struts etc to see if there are any part numbers left on them. VAG ones usually have a sticky plastic label. Not sure re aftermarket ones but the KYB springs on mine had a number etched into paint but its usually gone by the time you have to replace them. Alasdair

Glad you found it. I find theres always someone to help on here. Alasdair

Meant to add the octavia/fabia 1.9tdi MPG didn't seem to change much however it was driven unless you were really pushing it. Still used to get 40/50mpg when towing nearly two tonne and the fabia was the same with 1.5 tonne. A lot better than the 1.6tdi octy I am driving at the moment. Think they all have a DMF clutch so watch out for rattle etc or factor it into price if your looking for one. As said loads of torque and if you put the foot down you certainly go!! especially in the Fabia. Cant see them being ULEZ compliant so hopefully the prices have dropped. Alasdair

Folks had the 1.9tdi pd engine (AXR I think) on a late MK1 fabia estate and it was fantastic. No DPF and loads of power/torque. Never gave them any trouble at all plus 60mpg plus. I also have a 1.9tdi pd octavia and a 1.9tdi pd Seat with the BXE engine. both have never caused me any problems and no DPF on either. Get 50-60mpg The fabia and octavia etc 1.9tdi are also brilliant for towing. Alasdair

My octavia is 120nm and I think from memory its the same for the fabia. I usually put a bit of copper grease on them. Alasdair