Alasdair1

No don't think so. Its been on the road for about 10 days plus an MOT since I did it and everything looks in place. Just wondering if the gear selector shaft is broken internally? or the clutch is completely non existant.(Never had a clutch fail like this before slipping or any warning but who knows) Going to get it moved undercover tomorrow and have a proper look. Will try and see if its actually in gear but no clutch or if its stuck in neutral even though the selector seems to work. Alasdair

Did think of that. Had an old landrover 110 that snapped a drive shaft and wouldn't move. I Replaced front wheel bearing last week for MOT but everything seems in place and drive shafts seem solid. It did feel like it was trying to move very slightly when reving but could have been imagination as it was on a hill which would point to complete clutch failure but no sudden noises or bangs just before it stopped driving and no burning smell either and no previous signs of a slipping clutch. Will have a closer look tomorrow in daylight. I am thinking its either a gear selector shaft problem or the clutch pressure plate/ release bearing has failed sudddenly or master/slave stuck which isn't impossible but very unusual. I will jack both sides up and see if I can turn wheels when in gear. I assume turning one should make the other turn if the gears are engaged. It just feels as though its either in Neutral or there is no friction on the clutch. No oil or fluid leaks either. Got me stumped Alasdair

Thanks for the reply. Gearbox selector shaft is still connected to selector mechanism on top of gearbox and moves up down etc when selecting gears so I assume it may be an internal problem. Either that or the clutch has not re engaged but not sure how that could happen . Pedal feels fine and doesn't sink to the floor. If I manually move the selector mechanism cables on top of gear box it moves the selector shaft up and down etc but still no drive at all just revs. Alasdair

Hi have a Skoda fabia MK1 1.2 and the gears have all gone. Gear selector seems to be working as the cables to gearbox are moving. Clutch feels normal but car just revs when in any gear including reverse. No previous signs of clutch slipping and no hydraulic leaks. Its done 70000. Son was driving and said he changed from 5th to third as slowed down to pull into our drive. Said it felt difficult to get into third then no drive at all. Any help most welcome or where to start looking. Just got it through the MOT and was hoping not to have to do anything else to it for a while Alasdair

Try a length of garden hose. One end to your ear and move the other around the engine compartment. You should be able to isolate where the noise is coming from or at least the general area. It could be power steering pump? If the fluid is old it and has too much moisture in it it can sound like a groan or hum till it warms up. Its normally worse when cold weather or start up.

If I remember correctly loosen hub nut 1/4 turn then raise car. When fitting new bearing don't lower car until hub nut is tight. Get someone to put foot on brakes and tighten to correct torque then I think its 90 degrees more? If the Hub nut is tightened with weight on the bearing it can cause damage.

Not sure if its any help but had similar problem on old Volvo940. Replaced siren and had the same problem. Finally found out that theres a back up battery for the siren in case anyone decides to remove the battery terminals to stop the alarm. Not sure if Skoda is the same. It was cooked and taking the charge from the battery. I only discovered it when it nearly went on fire and noticed an acrid smoke smell. It was in a box that was riveted to the chassis in the most unaccessible place. As the car was old and I reckon no one would steal it so I just removed it and had no alarm. As for the hazards operating when parked up My old octavia 08 used to randomly set off the alarm. Theres a sensor I think near the interior light cluster that gets dusty and triggers phantom alarms. I hoovered it out and since then no probs. Alasdair

My son in law has a caddy van which the DPF would do exactlty as you mentioned. Starts regeneerating then gives up.DPF light on plus a few others It was due to the intercooler leaking. I assume it wasnt getting up to pressure. He replaced the intercooler and did a forced regen. Been ok since then.

I agree the gear change selector is plastic and if seized or stiff snaps. I got a cheap replacement from Autodoc.

I just replaced mine. Mechanic friend said go for Febi,NKor Apec or blueprint and avoid the unknown or cheaper brands. Their garage stopped fitting a lot of the cheaper brands due to the fact they don't last. Been using company Parts in Motion. A lot cheaper than Eurocarparts and my local motorfactors and so far have had next day delivery. I had to buy a set of triple sqare splined sockets to do the job and also a new ABS sensor as I managed to snap mine. https://www.partsinmotion.co.uk/search?keyword=wheel+bearing&virtuemart_category_id=0 . Need to do my sons fabia as well but its a push out and press fit so waiting for the tool off amazon. The bearings were half the price from Parts in motion. On my old 08 octavia there are two options. One with 3 bolts and one with 4. Check before ordering Alasdair

Many thanks. I checked the rear suspension and all seems ok but its difficult to tell if the bushes are worn as I don't have a ramp. May have to chuck it into a local garage but problem is I do all my own work and most aren't happy to diagnose but not get the job. Have a mate who works in an MOT centre with vibrating lifts etc so might ask him a favour. Hes an ex mechanic from the garage I used to use before his dad retired so might be able to help. I had a similar problem with a Seat altea. It was one of the tyres that had deformed slightly and you felt it through the seats but it was noticeable at all speeds. When I took the tyre to the tyre service the guy said probably a Michelin and he was spot on. He said that most tyres that they get like that are older Michelin. The rear swwing arms have concentric bolts that adjust the rear camber angle. When the bushes go the tyres tend to wear on the inside. Not sure of the 4x4 but my old 1.9tdi had that problem. When it gets really bad it sounds as if a rear wheel bearing is failing.

Hi there working on my sons Fabia mk1. Mot fail on rear brake imbalance due to leaking wheel cylinder and a front flexi plus an advise on a track rod end so not bad at all for 2006 car. Got new ones and quick question there are D shaped lip on the end of the pistons. Not sure if they are supposed to be behind the shoes or in front of them.The old ones had a groove that the shoe sits in. Hope this makes sense Alasdair

Many thanks, Looks like it might be on its way out. either that or a bad drive shaft joint? Had a word with an old mechanic friend and its got him stumped as well. Theres no vibration when taking off etc but a definite wobble when accelerating and worse when around 30-40mph. If I replace it I reckon go for a solid conversion kit. Alasdair

Hi there just wondering if anyone on here can help. Need to know if my Octavia MK2 2012 plate has a DMF or solid flywheel or how to check? Got a weird wobble and its the last thing I reckon it might be. Its a 12plate Ocatavia elegance tdi CR estate registred may 2012. Thanks Alasdair

Had thought of that but theres no judder etc when taking off and no noticeable odd noises. It could though be as the car has done 108,000. Hope not as I don't need to do a new clutch at the moment. Its a weird one as it varies. Sometimes its bad sometimes its not really noticeable. This is on the same strecth of road and at the same speeds. Seems better on newly surfaced roads so was thinking hopefully a shock absorber problem. Theres no sign of oil leakage etc.

Been doing a bit more checking and so far can't find anything worn or loose. Checked suspension bushes, Ball joints, drop links steering and tyres and are all good plus wheels are balanced and no signs of tyre damage or alloy damage. Even put the wheels off my old Octavia on and its the same. Engine mounts seem fine with no obvious cracks or excessive play. Wheels seem solid with no play and bearings are good but still have a wobble when accelerating and worse when about 40-50mph. Seems slightly better on recently surfaced roads so as previously mentioned could it be front shocks? The car doen't roll excessively and seems positive to drive with no knocks or clunks. Also CV joints inner and outer seem solid and no clicks or clunks in forward or reverse at full lock. Really got me beat. I do all my own servicing and repairs but this one has got me. Any pointers would be most appreciated Alasdair

Not sure if its the same as my Fabia but the drivers window motor controls the other windows as well. If it fails then none work. I got mine repaired by someone on here but can't remember the name( might be Breezypete?). Its a couple of components I think a capacitor and a resistor that fail on the Fabia. Put the repaired unit in and no problems. If the motor does control the other windows it could also be a broken wire that comes through near the door hinge. Alasdair

I thought of that but I thought that if the wheels were out of balance why would the wobble disapear when clutch depressed and your free wheeling. Will pop into my local tyre service and see if they can help. They are very good. Been using them for years and no problems. Have only had the car a short time and it started fairly soon after I bought it. Was wondering if it was a shock absorber problem? Its done 100 000 and I reckon its the original shocks. alasdair

Thanks for the reply, Wheel bolts are tight and no movement or sound from bearings. Checked CV boots etc and no splits or noise when cornering. Engine mounts also seem fine. Tyres are good, Its weird it disappears when clutch is pressed and car is coasting? Might be slightly more noticeable when turning corner to left but difficult to tell. Alasdair

Hi there, Have a skoda octavia 1.6tdi 12 plate and have an odd wobble when driving that I cant diagnose!! It doesnt feel like wheel imbalance and the tyres seem good with no obvious damage or misformatioin. You feel slightly through the steering wheel but also through the car as well. Its worse between 25 and 40 when accelerating and seems to almost disapear near 60mph. If I get it up to to a speed when the wobble is bad then I depress the clutch and let it free wheel it seems to disapear so I reckon its only there when there is power to the front wheels/drive shafts? Never come accross this before so any help would be most appreciated. Thanks Alasdair

Cars should eventually warm up to normal temp when idling unless the thermostat is jammed. If theres no coolant in cylinders or exhaust gas in coolant and the bubbles are air then I would think it might be the waterpump. I would check and replace it and see if it helps. It may be that the pump seal is drawing in air or the impeller has failed. Cant think of anywhere else air could be getting into the system unless the pump isn't strong enough to purge it but where did the air come from?? Check the drive belt for the pump as well. Alasdair

Hi there, I got the switch from amazon. https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwiQoq3AzNqEAxXdiFAGHXcrDZ4YABAKGgJkZw&ase=2&gclid=CjwKCAiA_5WvBhBAEiwAZtCU7-fUuGIqEA970bsf6t_BV8Pj-7XrQSN02ER_X3r69_BJvt1FE8GzQxoC9HUQAvD_BwE&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAESVuD2ODbQw4voiM65vAWa3YbiVYXjf6CNCjND_0Px7LktYK2qwuOO13_G4GEsn1R_VcWo1rn53PMj1kqyQZz5MjZzZYEgWdlEG3cIXDP20dmuXwCY88Iq&sig=AOD64_2flMrsUwPrEOmTgNnPFhm2FvQavA&ctype=5&q=&nis=4&ved=2ahUKEwjL6aLAzNqEAxXlQkEAHdD_AwYQ9aACKAB6BAgJEBI&adurl= Hope the link works. It was £12-99 delivered. I use amazon prime so came next day. Alasdair

Just about to do exactly the same on the same model myself as got silly quote from local garages as my friendly one retired last year. Bought a cheap bush puller off amazon. Parts arent that expensive. Was going to reuse the wishbones but they look pretty rusty and as everything else on the car is mint just ordered a new pair for £50-00. Got Febi ones as MOT advise reckoned pin might be worn on arms as well as bush. Got new track rod ends plus ball joints and bushes etc for £60-00 so £110 in total plus puller set (cant rember but around £40-00 which hopefully will get used again. Doesn't look too difficult a job. I reckon local garages looked at the age of car and reckoned everything would be seized or rusted solid and quoted accordingly. I reckon if I can do it for £150 in total its not bad plus I get another puller set to add to my collection. Got the parts I needed from Parts in Motion. Dealt with them a few times and so far delivery is good and everything is correct plus prices seem pretty good as well. Might be worth trying it yourself if theres no-one up for the job. Alasdair

Same here, I sprayed it with WD40 and spent ages pushing it in and out. It was pretty stiff to begin and seemed to stick at a certain point but eventually freed off and no trouble since. Alasdair

If I remember the wipers dont work if the bonnet is open on my 58plate mk2. There is a switch somewhere which may have failed or jammed?? I think mine is under the latch mechanism. Its not easy to get to but perhaps a spray of wd40 might solve it Alasdair