Alasdair1

Well done. Mine dropped completely and had to drive 30 miles in subzero with slush all the way home. They never fail in the summer. Alasdair

My Sons fabia lighter socket is the same. It works with one charger and also works his bluetooth/wifi adapter but the other two chargers don't work. Not sure why. May be either poor internal connection in socket or perhaps a voltage problem due to poor connection. He could do with another so was thinking of adding an aftermarket socket in the dash somewhere. Was thinking of somethig like this and hard wiring it in.

I was out at 6 as well. Damn cold and very slippy roads. Good idea getting rid of the locking/security nuts. I have had two times that they have snapped. First was by me but I had a spare so no problem managed to get rid of them but the second time it was the only one in the car. Tyre service got three wheels off then snap. It was a nightmare to remove plus our local Skoda dealer wasn't very helpful. Ended up getting a mate to weld a nut onto the wheel bolt to remove it. I now swap them for standard bolts on all my cars. Also When they snapped they looked more like alloy than steel. Don't think anyone would bother stealing a bog standard alloy these days unless it was for the tyres. Alasdair

There also the opposite I also remember when we were on holiday in a caravan and I grounded my old volvo 940 and hit the cat and exhaust started blowing, ended up all day under the car in midsummer which was roasting realining the exhaust joints. I was ok cause I was in the shade of the car and kept cool apart from my bare feet which were sticking out. They got so sun burnt I couldn't walk for days. Spent hours just standing in the sea to get them to cool down. Still would put up with burnt feet rather than frostbite. Alasdair

Thanks Pete, Will watch it later on. Sitting in front of fire to warm up. Gave up when I couldn't feel my hands anymore. Really need to make a door for the shed. Why do cars always break down in the cold or wet. Alasdair

Thanks for that. Have sprayed all bolts with release fluid and going to let them soak for a while. Was thinking of splitting exhaust at middle section or removing it as its a new front section a few weeks ago so should come off easily so I can lower engine more. Will have a look for the bolts you mention. There is always one thats hidden or a nightmare to get to. Going to do as much as I can today and Halfords tomorrow for higher jack etc. Taking it slow anyway as its -3C in the open building the cars in. Reckon I got till 3-30 this afternoon before the sun goes down behind the hill behind us and the temp drops too much for working. Many thanks Alasdair

Many thanks as usual. Cant see oil coming out unless I turn it upside down and as said a couple of kilos not going to make much difference. My only problem will be how high to get the car jacked up to get the box out. I will be lifting it manually although I made a flat bed scissor lift trolley for a massive autobox in a toyota lucida so hoping I can get it underneath. Been meaning to get a larger trolley jack plus a couple of extra axle stands for extra safety anyway. Just removed starter motor and it was full of what looks very like whats left of the clutch disc which would explain the sudden loss of drive in all gears. So far everything has come off easily and all the bolts etc look like new. Just the drive shaft ones and gearbox to engine to go. Alasdair

Hi there finally getting around to removing gearbox on a 1.2htp 06 plate to check clutch etc. Haynes manual states to drain first but I wondered if its required. Quite often find that you can bypass quite a few of the Haynes instructions. Gear box has flanges that the drive shaft connect to so cant see any way oil would come out. I was also going to try leaving the drive shafts connected at the wheel end as Haynes says to remove nearside one for extra working room if needed. Many thanks Alasdair

As long as the car is insured and MOT then you can tax it using the green slip online so insure first then tax, I assume you mean the small green slip that was given to you by the previous owner.

I can change vehicles on my Churchill policy online and its instant. Theres two options 1 is temporary and 2 is permananent. If there is extra to pay I can also do it online and if there is a refund (rarely happens they transfer it back to my account. Some companies will charge you to do it by phone. This year my premium went up by £150, I phoned them to see if I could get a cheaper quote but was told no so I used Martin lewis comparison site and got a much better quote with the excess reduced to only £100. It was still with Churchill so just paid for the policy and stopped the auto renew on the old one just in case. Went through ok. Still don't get why I got a much better deal from the same Insurance company? Alasdair

When it happened did you have any dash lights etc or was anything on the car working like lights wipers etc or was it completely dead. The fact that it zeroed the MPG sounds to me like a battery/connection/power failure. Might be worth getting it scanned for fault codes just in case its an ECU problem. If it was an ignition switch problem I assume the ECU would still have power. Alasdair

I got a towtrust towbar from Towbars UK. I actually fitted it to a seat but the quality of tow bar etc was excellent. I got the bypass wiring kit as well. The instructions were excellent and it was fairly easy to fit. I had to run a fused live from the battery through the car to supply the relay. Been on the car for 3 years now and no signs of rust etc. When I went to fit it there was a unit to connect to but if I remember correctly the car had to be reprogrammed to let it know a tow bar was fitted hence I went for the bypass. It wasnt a swan neck and doesnt stick out too much so you don't crack your shins everytime you go to the boot. The bumper cut was a bit awkward and in my case reconnecting the reversing sensors was a pain. Alasdair

If its the turbo veins stuck I have seen folks recomending spraying Mr Muscle oven cleaner into it to clear the carbon. Never tried it as it to me seems a bit dodgy. Read something about not getting the cleaner on alloy as it tends to eat it. Hope its just a stuck actuator. There is on mine a vaccum unit on top of engine to the right of the egr valve that I assume does EGR and turbo etc. I originally bought a replacement for about £30-00 on ebay as I wrongly assumed it was the problem. It could also be the diaphram in the actuator that has gone. I don't think they are repairable. If it wont free up then a replacement isn't too expensive. I remember finding a few on ebay for around £40-00. I put the car on a couple of ramps and removed undertray to get to it. Not the most accessible place and you get a sore neck while your at it. Would be a lot easier on garage lift. Alasdair

I had similar problems in my 1.9tdi It would go into limp mode randomly. If I stopped car and restarted and it was fine for a random amount of time. It did get progressively worse. Think it was the same error code. My turbo is VNT. I tried manually operating the actuator and it seemed very stiff and sticking at one point. I sprayed the actuator with some penetrating oil and spent ages operating it by hand. It eventually became easier and stopped sticking. Seems to have cured the problem. I assumed it was a vaccum problem and the garage assumed it was the veins on the turbo that were stuck. Might be worth a look Alasdair

Not sure if its rellevant but is the rear wiper connected/linked to the boot lock switch/interior light similar to the the front wipers that don't work with the bonnet up. The front ones caught me out once. Thought they had failed but I had the bonnet open doing a service. Alasdair

I reckon its the fan. Its pretty loud to be a water pump unless its bearings are failing. Was just wondering why it comes on. Doesnt do it all the time but as at the moment car is only doing 10-15min journeys.It might be failed or incomplete regen. Next time it happens I will have to be quick and pop bonnet to see. Will take it out for a decent run once the weather improves. Was going to do it today but its -5C and now we have snow so fire on and feet up plus a large drink as I have been out in it all day plus reeking of kerosene as boiler in green house was acting up. Its like cars. Works all year and as soon as it gets cold and miserable decides to break down. Many thanks for the replies Alasdair

Not sure but will check. Car has full service history butt not sure if it has been recalled as I have only had it a few months Alasdair

Many thanks, Does sound like a fan but I have never checked. It goes off after about 30secs. As said temp is normal and coolant level good. May be something to do with regen as at moment car doesn't get many long runs. Will check next timeit does it Thanks Alasdair

Not sure if its doing regen or not. I am pretty sure it has a DPF unlike the 1.9tdi pd but havent seen any lights etc regarding starting dpf regen. Its a 12 plate 1.6tdi. Not sure if it actually displays when its regenerating the dpf or does it just do it in the baackground? Alasdair

Hi there have a fairly recent purchase 1.6tdi MK2 and the rad fan keeps coming on for about 30 seconds as soon as engine is turned off. Doesnt do it all the time or when the engine is running as far as I know but happened again today. Temp outside is -1C. Have a 1.9tdi that never did this (in fact don't think the fan ever came on). Coolant level is good and temp never gets above 90. Is this something I should be worried about. Was thinking maybe a faulty temp sender but not sure. Just bothering me as to why? Alasdair

If its an original Skoda/vw part it will have a part number stamped into the plastic or a sticker. My window motor is 1K0959792C. Yours may well be a different number but shoud look similar. . I generally google the part number and see what comes up. Try ebay for second hand ones? As far as the wiring loom for the door I reckon it will be a Skoda only part. I would replace/check wiring first. If the wwindows and mirrors arent working then its probably the wiring. Saying that it looks like someone has had a go at soldering the terminals on the motor. Alasdair

May well be linked. If it was the main fuse I assume no lights at all so thinking earth fault at battery or bad terminals? Alasdair

Garages used to do welding but these days its a quick spot on an exhaust or a small patch to get it through an MOT and thats about it. Have a friend who had a garage and he said the prep work etc plus welding costs so much in labour it wasn't worth it. Plus he always said that unless it was stripped right back and all the rusty metal cut out and done properly( which would in my cases cost more than the cars were worth) it would probably need rewelding again for the next MOT. Might be worth a quick check to see if anyone local does car restoration or if theres an old style garage near you. Body shops cost a fortune probably due to most repairs are being paid for by insurance. Alasdair

I would check battery terminals are clean and not corroded plus tight. Next would do the same check with earth to chassis. If the mpg etc went to zero I would say the battery was disconnected somehow It may be a problem with the main fusable links at the battery box. My sons 1.2 had ABS fault etc and it was a hairline crack in one of them which I believe is a common problem. Not sure which one I replaced but couldnt see the crack until I removed it and it fell in half. I got a mixed pack out of halfords. Replaced and it its been fine since. Disconnect battery when changing or checking them Alasdair

Many thanks, Going to pop into halfords and have a look. Need it soon as car is off the road. I have a few old ones about but they are getting past it. Still work but leak fluid and tend to drop slightly. Tried new seals but reckon there worn out aand not worth repairing. One is a 30 year old 2 ton Kamasa. Probably knackered them from lifting random things that were too heavy. Alasdair