J.R.

Neutral is not a gear, the rest does not make sense, do you mean that you engaged first gear but when you released the clutch the car would only creep forwards regardless of engine revs? I sincerely hope that you didn't mean precisely what you said and didn't say, that you forced the lever towards first gear without declutching or perhaps the clutch was not disengaging, holding it there would indeed cause the car to creep but also burn out the 1st gear synchromesh baulk ring, if so then you may have to add the cost of a gearbox rebuild to that of replacing the clutch that is not disengaging.

So its auto-locking above 10mph, I thought that was what I remembered. What is the point of it? I mean why would you want the car to be locked at 10, 20................ 70mph and not at 9mph, why unlocked when stationary at traffic lights but locked at speed? Is it about passengers falling out?

It sounds like some programming changes have been made or perhaps a module has been reset to factory parameters or maybe the settings have become corrupted. The timing of the courtesy light is definitely programmable but this is probably not causing you any great problem. I'm pretty sure there is a setting for auto-lock (beneath or maybe its above!) 10mph, it sounds like this has been enabled one way or another, you trying to manually lock the doors when you start up is probably confusing the logic. From what you have written it sounds like you want the car to be locked all the time and you want to do it yourself using the central button, you should be able to do this if the auto-lock (or is it unlock? I'm confused now!) is not enabled, mine isn't and I would be able to manually do what you require were I minded to, it's very safe where I live and I have only used the feature a couple of times at traffic lights in a dodgy area and/or after using an ATM.

This is also contradictory, remove the words "finally. The doors are locked." and the description is exactly how the system should work, the car locks as you wrote the alarm is not activated for 20 seconds to allow the pressure to equalise and any body movement to subside, it then flashes to show the system is properly armed, the interior lights remain on to guide you away from the vehicle, I think its called the coming home feature, again something that can be programmed in VCDS. I do not understand the "finally. The doors are locked." when you had already said "the car locks"

I am struggling to make sense of your contradictory comments and also reconcile them with common sense logic. Why are you trying to lock the doors when driving if as you say it does it automatically? What is it that you want the vehicle to do? Are you sure that its not actually unlocking the doors above 10mph? It makes more sense to me that an anti-hijacking measure would be effective at a standstill or walking/running speed and deactivated for safety (egress after an accident etc) above that. Whatever changes it is you want to make can almost certainly be done using VCDS but you need to specify what it is you want to achieve.

Nothing you have described suggests that the pump has failed or needs reconditioning, at worst a failure of the controller, at best a comms failure due to a broken wire or oxidised connector contact. Maybe you have omitted to post some relevant information like what the fault was, why and how the vehicle came to be on a ramp at a garage or why they bothered doing so if their diagnostic skills don't go beyond looking at a computer screen. The more I read on this forum about peoples interactions with the motor trade the more despondent I become.

Number 1 rule of relay faultfinding: Give it a beating first!

That is too much for a diesel engine, they only enrich the mixture for a matter of seconds compared to a petrol engine that has to do so until the cylinder block reaches operating temperature and the thermostat opens, the economy gain of a diesel engine is massively magnified in winter cold start short journey conditions, once the diesel cycle is self sustaining without the glowplugs no enrichment is needed, perhaps a tiny amount for emissions or to preheat a catastrophic convertor/DPF. 55mpg is still respectable but of it doesnt rise in the spring then you can be sure its another problem.

Yes the mention of doing it one handed made me think the pipes could not be correctly aligned, I recall needing at least 4 hands to pull the sections together, hold the sleeve in position and tighten the clamps, I'm sure my knees or one foot was called into action.

Having enlarged the photo I can see at about 1cm to the right that was within the old clamp, possibly some to the left but that may be a shadow, of course the new clamp might be shorter than the old one.

Mine was as rotted as that but had an inner stainless liner which I re-used, or at least thats what either my memory or imagination is telling me!

Its drooping hence misaligned, the 30mm will have been measured after the old clamp was removed and both parts hanging somewhat. However if it isn't leaking and there is no vibration then its probably OK, myself I would have wanted more than 32mm engagement on that diameter of pipe so would try to close the gap up without straining anything, I think I may have replaced my clamp with a longer one. Well spotted Pete 👍

Does the vehicle fire up for one or two seconds and then die? That is the textbook symptom of a faulty immobiliser or non recognised key.

The owner is fortunate to have you! 👍

That would be correct for a stop-start vehicle with a fully charged battery, I fear you may be changing the alternator for nothing.

Its quite true, you should open the windows fully as soon as possible and exit via the higher one, if no visibility follow where the bubbles go to find the upper side. Best advice is be pro-active and try and avoid any situation that could put you in danger of submersion, lots of canals beside roads where I lived before and deaths were frequent, when an oncoming car swerves out to overtake and meets you head on the only survival chance you have is to swerve right (in my country) into the canal.

Translation: Insurers really dont like you keeping a vehicle long term as they cannot stuff the premium up with a lame excuse about undrewriters, higher risk, more expensive repairs (choose your own lie) like they will do when you change vehicles.

Mine are now evenly worn down to the TWI blocks, the ones on the front were just about flush with the blocks, the rears 1mm plus a bit above, they are now on the front, the ones on the limit on the rear. I have achieved 53K miles on these tyres including lots of very laden towing journeys, they were part worn when I got the car. Its only by rotating the more worn fronts to the rear then rinse and repeat that I have managed to get so many miles out of 4 matching tyres.

A resounding NO! Although for question number 3 the answer would be "maybe", they should list generic OBDII codes for emissions and safety related systems, my cheap one seems to miss everything, it once showed an EGR fault on a Renault, nothing ever since on any vehicle for fault codes that really should show. VCDS would be my recommendation, there are other offerings but I have not tried them, others will advise.

I would not make that assumption, it could well be as simple as the key, the OP does not appear to know about the system, the garage certainly don't and I expect as is often the case he is repeating their gospel so we really have nothing to go on at present to make assumptions, or was perhaps your statement actually a question? If this goes the way of many 1st time contributors hoping to resolve a problem it will take a lot of effort to persuade them to communicate relevant information like what was the actual problem, how did it manifest etc. Simply saying or more likely repeating "it has a fault with the immobiliser" and "what am I looking at?" is not going to elicit a solution to a problem that has not been explained or described.

You need to rephrase your question, only you know what you are looking at. Is your question "does anyone know what I should be looking for?"? And is that in respect to the instrument cluster? If so the answer will likely be dry joints on the soldering of the main connector but others may confirm whether that afflicts Yetis as it does other vehicles.

Sounds logical, the car does not know that the driver is in the seat (passenger yes) so the logic is that you have locked the car from the outside, you cannot have the central locking button operative for a thief with a stick.

I'm glad I'm not the only one left who thinks for themselves and makes their own decisions, I don't even dare speak that view these days such is the level of brainlesswashing.

If you mean electrical damage and overvoltage then that is rubbish mechanics speak, if you mean to your wallet then they are showing rare honesty!!!!

Broken wires in the drivers door loop 95% likely, passenger side 5% likely. Reverse the odds if the vehicle was used as a taxi.