J.R.

I'm not sure that an ECU supplier can code an ECU to the immobiliser unless you sent the instrument cluster to them and even then perhaps the keys would need re-registering, maybe not so on the latter part. I bought a "plug n play" remapped ECU, it basically was programmed to ignore any input from the immobiliser and start from any key that would turn the ignition barrel so no more security, I did this because I did not want to send away my old ECU and perhaps instrument console and risk not getting them back or having the problems that you have, looks like it was a shrewd choice. I sincerely hope you have retained your old ECU, in which case put it back on pronto to prove/disprove that the issue is within the new one, if not I would not spend any time trying to overcome the immobiliser, I would get a dealer level software like VCDS and it should tell you exactly what is not working and why, my gut feel is that the key is not recognised and the immobiliser is activated. A generic OBDII reader will not interrogate individual modules and only display safety and emissions related generic OBDII fault codes, not immobiliser data

I agree but the shock absorber limiting travel on one side should not affect the other if anti-roll bar disconnected.

Direct the spray grease to the plastic actuator between the control loading spring and the pedal, it is not the pivot or the pushrod making the noise but the actuator moving across the cam.

Both rear wheels should be off the ground when doing this job, if not the anti-roll bar is put under torsion and it can be dangerous to remove the connecting link. I have removed the rear springs from 3 Octavias and my Yeti and always had enough clearance and I dont think I have even disconnected the anti-roll bars, you may need to lever the bottom wishbone down slightly using a little force or weight, I'm used to these sort of jobs so it is an automatic reflex for me, I just get on and do it rather than taking measurements to tell me I cannot. Make it AVE IT! Editted, if both rear shock absorbers are disconnected at the same time the anti-roll bar does not put up any resistance.

The right front camber is outside of the permitted tolerance by a knats ****, the caster looks to be within the limits so IMO should not be in red. The front cambers could be equalised bringing the RH one within limits by moving the cross member towards the left a tiny amount but you are just as likely to screw up the thrust angle in doing so making the car crab unless you are very carefull, I did mine successfully but it was way out and I only used laser spirit levels, I would not trust any garage with all the gear to have the idea , the will or the patience to get it right, and to me getting it right means equal both sides with zero thrust angle, not just having green instead of red, it appears they dont even realise their machine is telling them porkies. I bet your vehicle has had the crossmember lowered or removed for a clutch job, that is how mine became screwed up even though I had marked all the positions with spray paint before removal.

On the contrary it sounds exactly lik ean immobiliser problem which is pretty much what I would expect after an unnecessary ECU swap. 1.2HTP is a petrol engine am I right? Then you have ignition for a couple of seconds before it cuts out which is precisely what the immobiliser does, you did the right thing testing with easystart but you drew the wrong conclusion, you may have had and may still have a fuel pump problem proven by it starting on Easystart but it cutting out after 2 seconds is 100% the immobiliser in my not so humble opinion, if you refit the original and no doubt faultless ECU it will probably run for as long as you drown it with easystart exactly as a diesel engine would do except on that the immobiliser would not hamper it. Best to limit the easystart, engines become addicted to it! And that is serious and not a joke.

You have inner track rods that are not only conscious of their surroundings but can also make decisions like giving up when surrounded by new parts? 😯 I have heard of inbuilt obsolescence but that is taking it to a new level!

My shonky Chinese head unit does that, I have just learned to live with it, I can sometimes overcome it but if I am shunting backwards and forwards I lose the reverse camera again on the second reverse, it also loses the image when the Shatnav finally does its booting up thing but selecting reverse again overcomes that. It probably only does occur on start up but probably 95% of the time I use reverse gear is after start up, I reverse out of ùy property every journey, I rarely have to do a U turn, if I park I will have to reverse out when I return to the car. I suppose I could reverse into every parking space while the camera is working but having a RHD car in a LHD country parking in the same direction as the other vehicles is preferable, I can leave a bigger gap for my drivers door without inconveniencing the driver parked beside me, our drivers doors will be side by side, the narrower gap the other side will be the passengers door for the other vehicle.

They are carbide inserts for lathe tools or CNC machine tooling, car was probably owned by a machinist.

I did not claim that it was joyriding. Your observation skills are amazing! Allow me to have a go. Chelmsford Essex, would that be in Essex?

Became tired of dogging? I cant think of the last time that I saw a road around where I live be it here or in Picardie that wasnt fire damaged. A close friend was burgled two weeks ago, she and her visiting family were sleeping in the house, she was in the adjacent ground floor room, they will almost certainly have looked in there, they took the car keys and her fairly new Renault on leaving, she lost her husband only a few months ago so you can imagine it hit her very hard. Car was found burnt out a couple of days later less than 5k away, it looks like they had hit a bank and damaged the suspension and front wheel before torching it. The Gendarmes arrested the thief last week, they told her his name and that he was from a certain community that doesastheylikey 😒, both things unlikely to happen in modern Britain, I reckon he lives within 1km of me, I will check at the Mairie.

Glad to hear that your repair methods are suitable for the job, that photo of the uninsulated brass connector made me shudder.

No but if the Haldex is engaged and the bevel drive box seized, th prop not wanting to turn but the rear wheels turning what would happen is one rear wheel would try to turn backwards while the other is dragged forwards. From what you have said though I'm convinced the diff is destroyed through having been run dry, have you heard increasing transmission noises recently? Many many people have suffered the same after having a Haldex service done by a garage or main dealer.

They drained the wrong drain plug leaving the differential dry and then struggled to get the 1l of Haldex oil in the Haldex part of the diff (the front) because the old oil was still in there, easy to do and I made the same mistake despite being aware of the possibility and having another forum member on hand as a second opinion. I was partially sighted and working on my back in the gloom and unfocussed, a mechanic with a ramp and workshop lighting does not have the same excuses but many many have made the mistake. Thankfully they should cover it under warranty, if you have any suspicion that they might try to wriggle out take it somewhere else first and get them to confirm that the diff has failed and is dry of lubricant. It does not explain the smell from the front but that could have been a DPF regeneration in progress.

Its good that you felt the temperature of the discs, I think we can now rule out uncommanded brake actuation which probably would have an ABS block failure.

Failure of either the bevel drive gearbox to the propellor shaft, its at the front and a common failure point. Or failure of the rear differential. Regarding the first had you noticed any oil drips or stains on the floor or the front undertray in recent weeks? If so that was the oil seal failing on the bevel drive box and once dry it started breaking up. Regarding the second have you had the Haldex oil changed in recent weeks? If so then they probably drained all the oil out of the diff by mistake.

I was defending you!!!!!! You said Lol-Lol said My reply was to convey that in a working day they would be racking up the miles here, there and everywhere, not driving from Dundee to John O Groats, and even if they did they would have to do the return journey.

A working day does not consist of driving to John O Groats.

Excellent news! Were the seats leather or leatherette? - You were not sure initially. Do Gliptone say that it will colour either material?

Bienvenue au forum! Je suis desolé mais le reglementation de ce forum impose que vous devez communiquer en Anglais, vous pouvez vous debrouillez avec Google Traduction.

Highly unlikely at this time of year even in Newcastle but what shoots that theory down is:

Forgive my ignorance in asking this question for I have little interest in hybrids, EVs yes as I'm sure I will have one as a project sometime soon but anything that complicates the already overcomplicated ICE vehicles passes me by. My question is: When people quote the "5, 10, 15 mpg better than the ICE only car." or 80mpg etc does all the battery energy being used come from the regenerative braking etc when running on ICE mode? Does that make it an HEV and not a PHEV? Or do PHEV's make the same claims?

If the dimension from the lower spring platform to the cut out for the steering knuckle clamp bolt is different then the ride height will be. Its very easy to check. Another poster corrected me long ago when I said that dampers damp and have no effect on the ride height, the gas filled ones do have a noticeable spring force when new as witnessed by the retaining wire for packaging and transport, I doubt whether that translates to any measurable ride height difference compared to the road springs against the vehicle mass but he was correct, this spring force is lost when the dampers age. If the old and new struts have the same dimension mentioned above then it would have to be the gas precharge.

As above but far more likely to be the bellows to the drivers door although check them both.

There is no such animal as summer tyres and 99% (true figure because I just made it up!) of motorists do not change their tyres with the seasons with the exception of those living in or visiting alpine regions with restrictions. There are normal tyres (not called summer tyres) for use all year round which will not give the best grip in cold winter conditions and will be biased towards the best performance for probably 50 weeks of the year for the average European motorist, there are winter tyres which will give better grip during the snow and icy conditions that a minority encounter each year and there are all season tyres which are somewhere between the two, they will give better grip than the standard tyre during the snow and icy conditions but not perform as well as a standard tyre the rest of the year round. As most sensible people do not push their cars to the limit of their grip then an all season tyre will have plenty in reserve all year round.