J.R.

Do a forum search, via Google is the best, another contributor had exactly the same problem spending a lot of time to finally resolve it, from memory even a replacement master cylinder was faulty. I think his main problem was the cruise control not working but the secondary oddity of the gear display was the key factor in suspecting and identifying the clutch pedal sensor Same 5th and 6th gear issue, I cannot explain why it would only affect those indicated gears but a problem with the clutch pedal sensor will prevent the display from functioning correctly.

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Thats a heart warming story, thanks once again to the selfless Pete for helping others 👍 ECP have to be the worst offenders, I dont think they have even once tried to sell me the right parts, thankfully after the first painfull experience, also a wrong fuel filter that caused me no end of problems, I would always take the old part with me and even then had to argue against ignorance. There is a lot I miss no longer being able to visit England and source stuff TPS being at the top of the list, ECP are not missed at all.

What possible motive do you think they would have for selling your seat base to replace it with another one? You would struggle to find another individual seat bolster for a 12 year old car let alone one with that combination of materials and colour, seat covers and trims in specific fabrics/colours are one of the few items where manufacturers dont have to produce any spare parts for a certain number of years (I think it is 4 years) as long as they can provide a cover that fits it does not have to match the others. Your seat bolsters look the same colour and more importantly equally patinated, you could spend the rest of your life trying to find another that would not look very different and you would not find many to choose from. Dodgy garages, the ones that promise recon engines or gearboxes but who just strip the car down and the extort money from the owners once the vehicle is stripped always seem to place the oily components on the rear seats especially if they are leather and unused, often never having been sat it, the owners after a long battle have to get the immobile vehicle transported away and as a leaving present they always seem to have the oiliest bits on the back seats, if they or someone else tries to put the vehicle back together they will find that parts are from another vehicle and theirs are missing. I dont know why this happens other than spite but its a very frequent occurrence, smaller garages may well store removed parts in the vehicle if it hangs around for weeks like yours so they dont get lost and may well not properly protect them and the vehicle from them. You say it was with them for several weeks for a gearbox service, do any of the above ramblings sound familiar?

There were 3 more screws in keyhole slots to loosen to release the inner retaining bezel but still the work of seconds.

Wont the L.A. have to give permission for that to be installed across the road? At only £150 they should be jumping at the opportunity to pay for it to be done themselves to display their green credentials. Its a big problem on my single track chemin rural, its not the volume of traffic but the speeds that people drive through inches from peoples front gates while staring at their phones, from my balcony I can see right into the drivers seat and its also much safer than being near the gate, by far the worst culprits for speed and not looking at the road (using their phones) are the young mothers with children in the back, for outright speed its the young males, no change there. I would be interested in being able to measure and record outright speeds, it needs to be something running automatically, I suppose a video recording and knowing the distance between two points within the field of view to calculate the speed would be the easiest and from having already presented video recordings to my friend the Maire in the Nord I know that the visual image is more than enough to get the message across, maybe even better than speed readings alone. That might be the way for the OP unless they are up against people without any compassion who will only react in the face of data.

As used to be recommended! Another benefit for them. From the above if its correct amongst all the hearsay, then the original design pump was fit for purpose, it was the cheaper to manufacture later (first?) revision that caused all the problems. So not only were they screwing UK customers to have cam belts fitted on a time/mileage basis that was not the case in the rest of the world they were insisting that the waterpump had to be replaced at the same time and then fitting an inferior part which would subsequently fail and in doing so reinforce the legend that the pump must be changed as a precaution when the cam belt was unnecessarily replaced. And even with this superb merry go round that they created I surmise that the dealerships were screwing up this magic money tree so much that it was costing Skoda UK too much in claims that they did the recent U turn over the cam belt replacement, less income for the dealers but that is not a concern to Skoda UK, they still have all the other means of extracting money from owners who cannot or will not do their own repairs. A reliable vehicle only benefits the owner and subsequent owners, not the manufacturer other than selling more units at a slightly higher price, and certainly not the dealers.

Indeed but this is now day Three Thousand Five Hundred and you did not purchase the vehicle from the manufacturer. Is there even a completely new design of pump or simply a later revision which will usually be cost saving changes to manufacture. In the case of the concentric clutch slave cylinders there was never an issue with the original aluminium one but the plastic replacement, a new design is failing right left and centre.

It will not be anything mechanical in the gearbox like synchromesh cones or the linkage causing your problem so forget that. There are no electrical sensors either, the ECU decides which gear the vehicle is in by comparing the engine revs with the speed sensor which I suppose is a transmission sensor. Your problem is most likely to be the clutch position sensor on the master cylinder.

You are joking right? You have a nine year old car bought second hand and you think the manufacturers should be shelling out for a repair, at what stage does that cease to be reasonable? 10 years, 15, 20? And for how many owners down the line? When I started motoring you were lucky if a new car got through its first MOT without needing chassis welding, Lancias were being brought back from the owners and crushed before they got to the first MOT. A vehicle would never get beyond 40K miles before needing a decoke and valve grind, by 60K miles the valve train would be rattling and the crankcase smoking with piston blowby, the big ends and main bearings would not last much longer. Exhausts? Lucky if the OE one lasted till the first MOT, the replacement would manage 18 months on average. Vehicles have got far more reliable and for some reason peoples expectations of the manufacturer have become much higher even when they did not buy the vehicle new and after many years. They still dont owe anybody anything after the initial warranty period which is double what it was not so long ago.

The longevity will be far more than the original void bushes, they were probably still like new, they have metal to metal contact from new and the dealers slather them with grease, some forum members were even brainwashed into thinking it was a standard service procedure.

I think you will find that it is an LED unit so nothing replaceable.

You have now lost the NVH benefits of a void bush but its better than accepting metal to metal contact.

And the official VAG solution to this design error? Slather the console bushes in grease 🙄 I've been saying this was the problem for a long time and their solution was ludicrous and in denial , thanks for posting the photographic evidence 👍

The noise was never going to go through changing the gearbox oil, the mechanic was talking rubbish.

Previous owner, I bought it from a salvage yard, I can only surmise what the accident was but by how little bumper damage there was I think it would have been at parking speed and hitting something head on like a crash barrier, it could not have been a wall unless it was covered in foam insulation. It will remain one of lifes mysteries.

Has it had the "emissions fix"?

The comment says it all really 😒I have nothing to add other than keep clear of mechanics like that.

Are you welding up the bolted joints that connect the transverse box section to the flat plates that go inside the chassis members? After far too much abuse the towbar on my MK1 would regularly work loose and rotate about that joint, I welded it on the car.

How much was the foam packing? My car was written off from a similar impact, it deployed all the airbags and seatbelt pyrotechnic charges blowing a hole in the top of the dashboard (by design) in the process. I didn't even need to do any stitching repairs to the bumper, just flatting, compounding and polishing of scrapes, the inner plastic grille was broken, pretty much the only visible damage to the vehicle. The foam packer was intact, just needed a couple of small pieces gluing back in place, it had transferred all the energy to the crash beam and chassis leg, too much energy, had it shredded like yours it would have been a similar repair. The chassis leg was not compressed but the crash beam twisted, I straightened it 95% on my hydraulic press but had not realised all the panel gaps between headlights, bumper, bonnet and wings are affected by its alignment so I replaced it. All the parts were good value but I reckon the foam packer was expensive hence my reusing the original one.

Thats because your customers have confidence in you, they can heed your advice re preventative measures without being concerned they might be ripped off or never see their car in one piece again. Those not so lucky decide on balance the risk of carrying on driving is the lesser one!

Definitely now the required info is known. Nothing to be concerned about.

I see what you did there! 😄

Leave everything connected, that way the protection built into all the electronic circuitry is able function but it wont be put to the test with what you are doing. I would however have already removed either of the battery terminals and refitted it loosely leaving the spanner beside it to hand, just in case the worst happens and you melt an unfused power cable, if you are only welding to the towbar you should be safe.

🤣🤣🤣🤣 Sorry but I wont be repeating that one!