J.R.

That will be none, they dont exist for RH dipping headlights. In fact the UK ones and the misinformation (AKA lies) used to sell them only exist because of the fools who fall for the con at the ports, on the ferries, in Halfrauds etc. For the last 29 years in the UK every new vehicle has by law had to have a headlamp levelling system, there has never been a legal requirement nor any need for headlamp deflectors for any vehicle produced since then.

That would be me!

Years ago I had to swop vehicles with a god fearing friend who is also a perfectionist who had precisely fitted some very expensive beam deflectors to visit me in France, the only remaining light was a couple of yellow puddles aimed down at the road a few feet in front, it was darnright dangerous. The requirement to carry an alco-tester in the vehicle did indeed make it into law and remains so to this day despite severaldelays and legal challenges, the face saving compromise was to make the penalty................................. wait for it.................... Zero €uros 🤣 The government was forced to do a similar thing with the now mandatory CT (MOT) tests on motorcycles, it is an EU requirement and France was the only country to have disregarded it, it took years to implement during which time there were lots of demonstrations, just opportunties for a ride out for the middle aged bikers who only use them on Saturdays, the law was introduced, delayed, challenged and is now on the statute but again the penalty is zero €uros. The CT centres have had to spend tens of thousands on equipment to test motorcycles but nobody is submitting theirs for testing!

There are no local regulations either in mainland Europe or now non Europe UK that you have to fit headlamp deflectors, they do not exist for vehicles like mine with RH dipping headlights, people especially truck drivers will flash you if your dipped beams are causing dazzle, if they are it takes a couple of seconds to lower the height using the dashboard control. I have made multiple trips back to the UK every year since 2005 with RH dipping headlights, the only time I need to lower the beams is when the rear is heavily loaded or I am towing with an excessive noseweight. If I read this correctly you have nothing to add to the discussion other than to create imputations, please correct me if I am wrong.

Did you order a low impedance ballasted coil and have you refitted the ballast resistor and wires exactly as they were?

VCDS will not have "apps" but for those of us who lived in a world where things were done manually and not for us then I'm pretty sure all the features you speak of can be activated using it. What features were you actually referring to?

They are usually a very robust gearbox, however the 4x4 transfer gearbox or bevel drive gearbox as it is more correctly known is quite prone to failure after oil loss from a leaking seal, as yours is a 4x4 that would be where I would look straight away. Have you noticed any oil drips on the floor where you park? Have a look at the undertray from behind the engine for any sign of oil, not that easy and better if you remove it but if you crawl underneath you would see/feel oil coming through some of the drain and fixing holes in the area of the bevel drive box which is located on the inboard end of the RH front driveshaft.

🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

€80 Delivered.

Looks about right!!! Amazing how they have consistent (lack of) quality standards across different countries!

I never knew that it was essential that hot bulbs should weld themselves to the housings, what misfortune will you suffer if they dont? 😆 Try lubricating them with some essential oil to which the same question applys!!!

I am suspicious about you using the test flash function on the timing light to test the coil, it would have been better to have used a multi-meter set to voltage and checked the voltage on either side of the ballast resistor with the points closed, also checking the resistance of the ballast resistor which could be the faulty item although in that case the engine would start but die when you release the key. You say you tested the coil on the second terminal, the wire that goes to the distributor and there was no voltage, was the wire connected to the distributor, if it was and the points were closed (more likely than not) then there would not be any voltage present. Had you by any chance removed and refitted the coil leads before the engine died? Running a ballasted coil on a 12v feed for more than a minute or so will cause the coil to overheat, normally misfiring but it could short a winding and burn out.

Also if a non Low Saps oil has been used in the past, does the OP know the service history of his vehicle? Even with it a garage could be charging a premium for low Saps oil but refilling with a cheaper fleet grade oil. Thats interesting, one time I heard the fans running so plugged in VCDS and it showed an exact figure of 1000kms (might have been 500kms) plus the distance driven during the regen, it seemed to exact to have been a coincidence. Maybe mine is not regenning more frequently than the measured values would require and its the self test at 1000kms or maybe 500kms. I will have to keep connecting and making a log once again of the readings, its so rare now that I hear or feel a regen happening which can only be a good thing, the measured soot values are reassuringly low. I believe that the big difference between my now rolled back ECU software and the previous Emission Fix one is that regens now only happen when the measured soot value exceeds the limit and not when the calculated ones do, the self test aside. I have fitted an ECU emulator, I could see that it was definitely reducing the build up of soot but the regens triggered anyway from the calculated value, the rollback has stopped that aside from the anomoly of the 1000km (maybe) 500km regen when I saw that the soot level was nowhere near high enough to generate one. I guess its there as a guard against someone removing the DPF core, if when it does a regen it does not see the pressure drop reduce in the way that it should perhaps it creates a fault code and MIL light? Also in the case that an oil ash blocked DPF does not reduce correctly?

I think you are confusing what a regeneration is (burning off as much soot as can be done) with how the soot values are measured (which they aint) or calculated which is pretty much fantasy and completely skewed after the emissions fix. The ECU does not know that you now only have 3 grammes of soot left so it can halt the regeneration, it is relying on the pressure drop measured across the DPF and what would correlate to 3 grammes of soot in an otherwise healthy and unblocked DPF oil ash residue throws this off and a near end of life DPF like yours will be partially blocked by oil ash residue and the pressure drop will never be low enough for the ECU to consider that the regen has completed. Have you checked your engine oil level? From what you have described I would expect a very high oil level with it being diluted by diesel. I have no idea if any of the treatments or cleaning services will actually help you, it may sound like I know a lot about DPF's but it's only through realising a year or so back that I was driving a ticking financial time bomb and being concerned by the over frequent regens that I started researching the subject and taking steps to mitigate against ending up where you are.

More crazy units from VCDS, kms since last regen 21m, WTF is that supposed to be, minutes? Kms? Metres? If the 660 seconds time since last regen is to be believed (and I am not confident about any of the units) then 21kms in 11 minutes is implausible unless you are on the autoroute. Could it be 21 metres shufling around on your driveway with the engine ticking over for 11 minutes? In any case 5.58 grammes measured of soot (or the backpressure that they believe equates to that) is not good at all, you will know the journey that you have just taken either it had not fully completed a regen and got down to the 3 gramme (I think) threshold because you stopped or because the thing is so choked the sensor is always reporting back pressure equating to 5 grammes. I dont think telling it you have a new DPF is going to change anything if your measured soot level either goes up that quickly or cannot come dow enough during a regen. You must be using a hell of a lot of fuel surely?

I would say so, those guys usually butcher a wiring loom which more often than not leads to problems in the future, at the very least you have a circuit board of unknown provenance and reliability connected into the cars central nervous system which is undesirable.

Condition of the bellows is immaterial, did you check the state of the wires contained within?

Disconnect it from the Can high and low lines and see if the comms are re-established.

My pal has a 13 pin socket which gets lots of use, he had a problem with it when we picked up his new tractor from Belgium during the lockdown, we had stopped over at my place before he did the final 800km back to his home. It had been a recurrent problem and was one of the pins not making contact properly in the socket, the solution was same as what I have done on 7 pin sockets, to spread the pin using a fine flat blade screwdriver in the slots and to ream out the female pins by hand with a drill bit. For some reason I can't recall it was apparent that the 13 pin sockets were more vulnerable to this failure.

I'm glad to hear it, he had his chance to do what you have done. Assuming that it was the same specialist.

That will get you through the drivers door but will not start the vehicle, the immobiliser chip in the key needs to be programmed. The correct and very expensive way is through VAG but which will also bring the security that if the lost key found its way into criminal hands they would not be able to start the vehicle. The cheaper but still very expensive compared to cutting a key is to have the immobiliser chip in the new key cloned to your remaining key.

It is very disconcerting the first time, I thought my DMF was failing.

Yes the shuddering at shut down is caused by clag build up on the throttle body from the pretty much constant EGR operation, if you are lucky it will just be sticky and not able to fully close, if you are unlucky it will have stripped its teeth. Declagging the intake tract usually results in excellent power and economy gains, while you are doing it you can reverse the orientation of the EGR inlet stub to reduce the future clagging.

Don't waste your time with idiotic suggestions, you have correctly diagnosed the issue as a comms failure with the door controller modules, I would now check the drivers door bellows loom for broken or fractured wires, the twisted pair are the canbus. I think the other door modules communicate with the main drivers one, perhaps by LinBus so it is plausible that the system will not see any of them. The wire problem(s) could be the Canbus or the power/earth to the drivers door module.