J.R.

Well it would have saved a lot of time had you said that in the first place instead of talking about starter motor failures, if the flywheel would not turn before you removed the gearbox then the car was not running, surely the first thing to do after replacing it would be to make sure it wasn't still jammed as soon as the first 2 bellhousing bolts were cinched up. Your brother has re-assembled everything and now he has t take it all apart. The clutch cover bolts are supposed to touch the flywheel, they screw into it. You have incorrect or incompatible parts fitted, was the LUK set a complete clutch/DMF kit? Is the gearbox the original one or the correct type for the vehicle VIN number?

You are still not making any sense, you say "usually" which would infer that your car is not like that, please confirm is the biting point (in your opinion) either too low or too high? And also what you mean by the travel being really high?

Unlikely, try simply rotating the engine by hand, better still push start it.

That is not the way to bleed the clutch nor is a pressure bleeder necessary, the system is designed for gravity bleeding. You simply attach a bleed hose and leave it vertical for bleeding or loop it down into a jar to purge the fluid. You open the knurled thumbturn bleed valve and if bleeding just wait for the air bubbles to rise, they will be sat in the air chamber just under the bleed knob, if purging the fluid just wait until the fluid runs clear while topping up the master cylinder, the take off port is above the bottom so you cant run it dry and affect the brakes but you could put air in the clutch if you let it drop too far. Never hook up the pedal if it remains down especially with the bleed valve closed, it can detach the plastic master cylinder pushrod from the piston, when using the correct procedure you will never be in the situation of having the pedal on the floor. I understand why you bled it using the time honoured procedure, I did the same myself and gave myself a whole world of problems, after 2, maybe 3 master cylinder changes (I broke the pushrod once) and ending up losing the clutch and having to bleed it every 5 miles in stop start traffic conditions I learned a lot about the clutch hydraulics and how to bleed them blind at the side of the road in minutes. I suggest you start again with a patient gravity bleed to just get the air out (no assistant needed) as the fluid has already been purged.

Do you mean that you replaced the cylinder with the intention of fixing the brake light fault or the fault occurred after changing the master cylinder?

The above makes no sense at all, you say the travel is really high, what do you mean by travel? Because you describe the biting point as really low.

Not unless its a high level one that can interrogate the individual control modules, in this case the airbag control module. Most claim to be able to do everything but in reality will only report generic OBDII fault codes and not be able to reset safety critical ones.

Probably not then, my current vehicle does not have Climatronic and does not have the upper vent sensors. Do not trust a so called "intelligent" aircon machine for diagnostics, as far as it is concerned your system is working because the high and low side pressures fall within it's prescribed range, indeed if you have 5° post evaporator temperature in these weather conditions it is but you clearly have a problem. I would have the climate control module scanned for error codes using VCDS or similar then look at measuring blocks and compare all the commanded values of the flaps with the measured values.

Did you bleed it or not? If so then that is obviously where your problem came from, you don't need to ask for clues. How did you bleed it?

A faulty temperature sensor in the passenger upper vent duct will cause your problem, the system regulates each side individually according to what it is told the duct temperature is, it is probably already seeing the passenger duct as cold. It may well have generated a fault code in the climate control module if the output is implausible.

Not camber, the tread wear is even across the central 3/4, in fact in terms of wear the tyre is still well within the legal limits 🤣

Ventora. In the nicest possible way suggestions for problems with modern vehicles from experiences with vehicles produced over 50 years ago are not particularly relevant, things like adjustable servo rods dissapeared 4 decades ago for cost savings, servos have been direct acting and integral with the master cylinder since then.

That is standard and can be resolved using VCDS, I spent a decade before finally realising that whenever I had tweaked the drivers mirror soon after I found myself having to do the passenger one.

It's a standard EU format so if you know how many lines down the info is then you can work out what the parameter would be.

I have one that I used to French register my Octavia2, it was passed on when I sold the vehicle, I believe that I still have a copy but its at my now unoccupied place in Northern France and I don't know when I will next be there and it will only be an overnight stopover after a 10-12 hour drive before setting off again. If you cant get the info by other means then PM me before the end of the month as I may have to travel soon after.

Before giving what might turn out to be unfair feedback check the part numbers on one of the online sites like 7Zap to see if a RHD RH mirror assembly and a LHD RH mirror assembly have different part numbers. I do think the aspheric glass does, I drive a RHD car in a LHD country and bought a LHD left side blind spot mirror (I think that is the aspheric one) and it doesn't work unless I am in the passenger seat & then its just fine!

It has been crimped but there is no cable inside so it was crimped onto a micro RG59 cable which is too small for that connector, when the cable was withdrawn it fell off as only the central core was being retained, that or the fitter realised his mistake and used your footwell as a rubbish bin.

Not wanting to inflame things but what is wrong is everything you have said. I think your memory is playing tricks with you, what you describe could happen with failing clutch hydraulics or a failed self adjust mechanism on the pedal of a cable clutch like Ford used for a while but as a clutch driven plate wears it takes up free play in the release arm, cable and pedal linkage.

As has been said, a hydraulic clutch is self adjusting, the comments made by Owainsdad and Ken O Neill are 100% incorrect, as a clutch driven plate wears the pressure plate moves forwards pushing the release bearing backwards, this gradually takes up the free play on a cable clutch, the bite point gets progressively higher, if the cable is not adjusted to give back the required free play the pressure on the driven plate will reduce just as if someone is riding the clutch and it will start to slip and burn out. I did my first clutch on a Granada 3 litre at in 1974 at 15 years of age and my last (to date) a year ago. Even I have not done a cable operated clutch for maybe 15 years so its quite understandable that people may be confusing themselves with old memories. The characteristics, pedal pressure, feel, stroke and to a lesser degree biting point will all change somewhat with a new clutch especially an aftermarket one even with a hydraulic clutch, then there are errors and problems when fitting to compound things. I had to drive a 12 year old low milage Dacia onto a recovery trailer today (auxiliary drive belt shredded) it was a jewel, main dealer serviced yet the clutch biting point compared to my vehicle was so high that I thought I was in neutral or there was no drive, I had already moved the seat back. I suspect it had a cable clutch, it had wind up windows.

There is another connector tucked right up under the seat squab, before resorting to the resistor bodge (I was also at that point) I would remove the seat after you have disconnected the yellow connector, its only 4 bolts, take it off, invert it on a clean or covered bench and all will be revealed. In my case the yellow connector was a red herring that cost me a hell of a lot of time.

It is a leak, "misting" is just a BS term they dreamed up to avoid warranty claims. And before anyone links to a shock absorber manufacturers site talking anout misting being normal don't bother, I have already read it and it was even more of the brown stuff with flights of fantasy saying that the oil vaporises. Even the shockers on grass track racers dont get as hot as a chip pan and they only vaporise oil at the point of catching fire. They will mist (leak!) until there is no more oil left to mist (leak) at which point your car will ride like a clowns car in a circus, thats what happened to my 2015 one and the transition was very sudden.

Do you know for sure that its only the front brakes that are remaining applied?

100% it will be caused by the new master cylinder and/or its pushrod being outside of the manufacturers limits, basically the pushrod is too long and not allowing the piston to return once it warms up. It may possibly be adjustable for length on your vehicle, if so then do that, otherwise try slackening the retaining bolts and inserting some C washers and resecuring, if that doesn't work then it could be a failed internal spring or pedal return spring (so much for my 100%) but I don't know the set up on your vehicle.

That will not have had any connection to the worn synchromesh rings.

When my old school pal, a mechanic all his life (he would have been 60 then) said the same I knew then that my scant knowledge of the subject far exceeded his and I made the decision to equip myself and learn more. The fans wont cut in unless the aircon is commanded and working, they cut in when the high side pressure reaches 12 bar IIRC, either they are idiots and the clutch comment leans towards that or they have done a proper diagnosis and the fans are indeed not working (fan controller likely) which in turn will prevent the aircon from working but the compressor shut down code would say exactly that. These days an aircon expert is someone that connects the machine and leaves it to do it's stuff while he stares at his smartphone or whatever, they dont need to have any knowledge and hence cannot diagnose, VAG have not used clutched compressors for 15+ years.