J.R.

I also understand that the vehicle has inclination sensors, however it achieves it the fuel warning light effectively latches on which is a very good thing.

And to add to the subject my car with the so called saddle tank has twin sender units VCDS giving a fuel volume for each one. The damping on my Yeti and previous Octavias, which I have no doubt is software driven as the guages are stepper motor driven, is very heavy throughout the whole range, I have no experience of Fabias. I am anorak enough to have watched the rate of guage rise when refuelling but I do now appreciate the need for special consideration at the point the fuel warning light comes on, I'm still not convinced that it does or needs to compensate for acceleration/deceleration as these are relatively transient compared to the existing damping of the guage, I have had the fuel warning light come on just before decending a mountain pass and it did not go out, conversely on ascending a long climb at the point it would come on it did not make it come on, the trigger point is always when the "remaining miles" are at a threshold commensurate with the average fuel economy, twice on my 500 mile overnight journey at precisely 80 miles remaining indicated, in truth 80 miles plus 5+ litres virtual reserve. I have also put in 20l from a jerrycan when the fuel light had just come on and it did not go out until I switched the igition off and then on again. Compared to the temperature guage and its fiddled with readings the fuel guages are as honest as a Nun!

Whilst it is known to be problematic as a result of corrosion from water laying on the sensor your appears to be a later inverted version, I would not trust the aircon persons diagnosis, unless they could interrogate the climatronic controller for fault codes they are likely guessing at the fault. That said the pressure sensor is the cheapest and easiest to replace and will not leak out refrigerant so is a good starting point but if you have access to VCDS or equivalent use that before wasting any time or money. Mine removed from the top and had as little clearance (you dont say what engine you have) but I managed it with a slightly longer spanner than yours by making use of the asymmetry offset.

Which is exactly the same way that the ABS module transmits data to the instrument module including your percieved acceleration data. Humouring you and accepting your premise that the fuel level guage has additional damping to cope with acceleration and braking forces how do you reconcile that the axis of movement of the float is at 90° to the vehicle fore and aft axis and how would your ABS calculated accelerometer data cope with cornering forces which are the ones that would in theory affect the guage were it not as damped as it is?

I would prefer that, when it stops twitching on hard right (or left as the case may be) corners then you know that you really are about to run out of fuel.

Excellent news and thanks for the additional knowledge! Enjoy your caravan holiday in France, looks like I will be going in the other direction at that time.

Do you know that the garage will allow you to supply your own parts for them to fit? Most won't and take exception to customers proposing this because its usually in the form of "yes but I can get the part for only X £'s", they of course will probably be getting it for significantly less but that is how they make their money and there is also the question of if you return complaining about a further leak. I ask because you may be wastinng your time and making a rod for your own back.

You are spot on in my book, always look for the simple and obvious.

I guessed it was a private sale.

Fun fact: You don't half see some BS on this forum! 🤣

I do indeed believe you, it was the drying out of the bearings that was implausible.

What they mean is that it is impossible within the time constraints they have to do the job for a fair market price to remove all of the broken glass, some will likely remain.

I understand now, pressure plate fingers.

I cannot understand how airflow would dry out grease, even if that were so then riding the bike would surely have the same effect unless its one of these bikes that does thousands of miles on the roof of a car for a couple of 500m trips to the shop or restaurant. Water ingress I could understand.

I have several of those round things, wherever the pipe takes a 90° bend, I never did work out what their function was but in my case it was a red herring. What slave cylinder does your car have, is it an internal concentric release bearing one or the external one with a pushrod to the clutch release bearing lever? You should have a flexible pipe to the bleed block, if you clamp that and very gently depress the clutch you will be able to tell if the air is upstream or downstream, if downstream the pedal will be rock hard, do not push any more as you will have no doubt noticed that the master cylinder pushrod is plastic. Once again don't ask me how I know

You want someone to open your boot with their foot?

Never heard of a spring having pawls, what spring are you referring to?

There is an adaption channel but first check the sender unit both by measuring the fuel quantity near full and near empty using VCDS and also physically for a sticking float lever. I always push the virtual reserve capacity to the limit but was caught out twice on my MK1 Octavia when the sender unit had stuck, both times when i looked at the trip reading I had gone to about 650 miles instead of the 600 or so when I would normally refill after driving 50 miles on zero range.

As you are determined not to use the correct gravity procedure if this hasn't worked then next time you should do it the opposite way around, you are trying to push air downwards when it wants to go upwards, the bleed valve is for bleeding any air in the slave cylinder below it (assuming a concentric cylinder) any air bubbles in the pipework above will rise up to the reservoir naturally unless you have created an airlock with your bleeding attempts, in which case you need to start again, if you are determined to use a syringe use it from the bottom pushing the fluid and air to the top, better still use a Mytyvac from the top.

Did you fit a new seal to the rigid pipe that goes into the master cylinder? Did you fit it to the pipe and not into the cylinder? Did you push it on to the pipe until it clicked? If not then shine a torch behind the cylinder into the space between the heat insulation and the bulkhead, if the joint is leaking, which will make bleeding impossible, the fluid runs down there unseen and can pool unseen on the undertray, or simply puddle on the drive unseen under the car. Don't ask me how I know - I told you I was an expert!

You are your the author of your own destiny.

Most likely the fault is a broken wire in the drivers door loom and not a software bug. Yes I know the side airbag is in the seat and nothing to do with the drivers door but try telling VCDS that! There is a sensor in the door, if the circuit is broken it brings up a fault code which like many in VCDS (probably the VAG code as well) bears little relation to the actual fault, possibly translation errors. No!

Only the fact that the sump has been removed makes me advance this hypothesis but all that you describe could be symptoms of worn crankshaft thrust bearings which unless they have been fitted backwards never seems to happen these days. Easy to check, have someone operate the clutch with the engine idling while you watch the crankshaft pulley for any fore and aft movement. No idea how a sump change could cause the thrust bearings to fail.

All spot on, 17 years in France a couple of hundred thousand miles and never been pulled over aside from when I have done something equally deserved as GAX. You simply do not see patrol cars except for dodgy places like my old town with lots of social problems where they do cruise around, they certainly are not out looking for GB plates or the lack of any of the things that the professional worriers carry in their vehicle. 99% of speeding tickets are sent by post including to the UK, it's dangerous to pull a car over, when they do spot checks with the binoculars they set up a whole area further on to pull the cars over into a safe area (they used my hôtel car park with my blessing), on the autoroutes there are dedicated exits to Centre d'entretien Gendarmerie et Police where you may be escorted off to have your car siezed or to withdraw loadsamoney from their own cashpoint if you are lucky. I have never driven at night and seen more than 6 or 8 cars without one having at least one non functioning light, often there are no rear lights at all. Indicators are considered optional as is dipping the headlights when there is oncoming traffic!

Well it would have saved a lot of time had you said that in the first place instead of talking about starter motor failures, if the flywheel would not turn before you removed the gearbox then the car was not running, surely the first thing to do after replacing it would be to make sure it wasn't still jammed as soon as the first 2 bellhousing bolts were cinched up. Your brother has re-assembled everything and now he has t take it all apart. The clutch cover bolts are supposed to touch the flywheel, they screw into it. You have incorrect or incompatible parts fitted, was the LUK set a complete clutch/DMF kit? Is the gearbox the original one or the correct type for the vehicle VIN number? And if the starter motor really will not turn when actioned with jump leads and your brother actually knows how to connect it to test then you have burnt it out trying to turn over a locked up engine. You say the car is a diesel yet your profile shows it as a 1.2 TSI petrol, have you ordered parts for the correct engine? The diesels will push start relatively easily in a higher gear but not with a locked up engine.