J.R.

No its not clear because its not a salient moment at all but a red herring, no wonder both myself and Stubod could not see what it was, shame on you for not simply responding and making him watch it 3 times. It is the control loading spring and in the absence of hydraulic return pressure from the clutch via the master cylinder to the pushrod will move the pedal to the upper stop or the floor dependant on which side of the centre dwell position it is, this is not a clutch fault but a manifestation/symptom of air in the system.

Very satisfying I bet! I had a similar issue but was unaware, it revealed itself when I removed the gearbox to do the clutch, mine was just generally sloppy rather than notchy, a very easy lazy non precise gearchange like a high mileage Schnorrer. The rusty nut in your photo 3 was loose where some bodger had removed the gearbox before me, I found a few other loose/missing fasteners, afterwards the gearchange was much more precise but ironically I also had to be much more precise with the gearlever movements. It had a tapered splined shaft & would have soon been spinning freely locked in neutral or the last gear.

Void bushes are designed to be stiff in one direction and compliant in the other, I racked my brains but could not come up with the term for a material that does not have uniform strength in all directions. I was a race car constructor and driver and would use solid mountings, polybushes, rose joints etc where they gave an improvement but it was always at the cost of NVH (no loss) and maintenance, any articulated joint using poly bushes would wear. I have yet to find an application on a road vehicle where any benefit would outweigh the disadvantages, certainly on any articulated joint they lose all the benefits of a rubber to metal bonded bush, that of being maintenance free, if they at least had a grease nipple it would be a start for those willing to go back 50 years. I would actually prefer a vehicle that had a more direct connection through the controls and would be happy having to grease all the joints every 6 weeks, when I use a digger I grease all the joints before and after use, but modern suspension designs, the console bushes being a good example could not operate without compliance using rose joints and solid bushes, electric power steering was the final nail in the coffin AFAIK regarding control feedback. Over a decade ago I was driving an old beat up high mileage MK1 Octavia, for the Téléthon our Lycée pro (motor trade) would invite the public to have their vehicles checked over in the workshops then washed & valeted, my job was to drive the vehicles through the various stations, most were newish vehicles, nearly all newer and better condition than mine, normally it would have left me with a desire for something newer and better. It was not the case at all, all of them were huge, heavy yet confined, no knee room, peering over a high dash, narrow slits for windows, bad visibility whilst I was driving through the narrow path between the stations, the worst of all was the total feeling of disconnection between the controls and the steering, suspension, brakes etc, the absolute highlight of the day was a basic 80's Renault 5 which was a total joy, light doors that closed properly with smooth manual window winders, superb visibility, loads of glass and narrow pillars, sublime non power assisted steering, brakes, clutch and handbrake. The drive home made me realise that the dog that it was, my MK1 Octavia was a better drivers car than any of them, when I bought a MK2 I liked how familiar it was but hated the huge A & B pillars and most of all the electric power steering, people said that I would get used to it and very sadly indeed I have but no amount of polybushes could make that or my current Yeti into the drivers car that the MK1 was, quite the opposite, I believe they would make it worse. I have a clonk from the RH front suspension, it does not appear to be the new strut or top bearing nor the cheap drop links that I fitted so later on I will be checking all the suspension bushes, I will keep an open mind regarding poly bushes but only for any joints with a rotational element around the fixing bolt.

The obvious question is what is the handbrake efficiency on the test rollers, is it what it should be, at the lower end of the pass figure or below? Does the graph for the footbrake (watch while they are testing) show the brake reaction force gradually rising with the applied pedal pressure before stopping dead despite further pedal pressure and does the pedal feel harder after that point?

Deciding to ignore the benefits of decades and millions of pounds of NVH research and development that have gone into producing voided rubber to metal bonded bushes.

If I had been shrewd rather than mocking I would have got back 60% of what I paid for my Yeti.

My phone does not have that app.

I would need a translation before I can comment.

If it starts without any slower cranking after 24 hours you can be reasonably sure that it is OK.

It may even make matters work, the can gateway controller sends a message to the radio (the OE one has a canbus node) telling it to shut down & when to wake up, if it does not get the handshake signal or whatever the protocole is, if it cannot find the radio to communicate with it may remain awake. Before faffing around with switches I would disconnect the radio while the ignition is on by removing the connectors then switch off & lock the car, if the battery does not discharge then your scheme will probably work, I bit the bullet and fitted a higher revision can gateway, it will need coding with VCDS or similar, a list of the compatible ones can be found on the Rosstech site. I fitted an aftermarket head unit to my Yeti, whilst it recieves and decodes the door open signals, steering angle etc from the canbus network it does not communicate with it like the OE radio, as a result I get fault codes when I do a VCDS scan of radio controller not found and can network error, I might try recoding it to say that no radio is fitted like I did when i disconnected the OE bluetooth module that no longer has the OE radio to work with, I was scared to thinking it would lose the inputs but after thinking about this reply I think it would work, it could also be an option for you to retain your can gateway.

OK I get it, I thought you had done that to new bushes. I would never call a polybush a "proper" bush, in a stroke they remove all the advantages of rubber to metal bonded bushes and took vehicle technology back more than 100 years or whenever the first grease nipple or lubricator appeared on suspension pivot joints.

What is the deal with the Tiger stuff? Looks like some sort of Sikaflex PU type adhesive but why?

No.

Even when you do get it to switch off (which should be very easy) you will likely find that the battery discharge continues due to the canbus network being kept active by the radio, you will likely need to source and code a later revision can gateway, I had to do that on my 2006 Octavia when I fitted an aftermarket head unit. It is very well documented on this forum, searching through Google is more likely to bring up the threads than the forum search facility.

6 will be "aircon switch in off position", 3 I am betting will be low pressure.

By changing the bearing you will have changed the preload, the shims are there for selective assembly to cope with the manufacturing tolerances of the bearing, the diff carrier and the housings, it is normal that you would have to use a different shim thickness to get the correct preload on a new bearing and does not mean that the old bearing was running too tight.

You could look in VCDS for the compressor shut down code but I can guarantee you that it will be system pressure too low based on what you have written. You have a leak which is significant enough to deplete the refrigerant charge in 2 days, go ahead with your plan to get it tested but dont believe them if they say there is no leak and they are going to recharge the system and redeplete your wallet, they either didn't want to spend the 30 minutes a vacuum test takes (yours would only take a couple of minutes) or they just want your money. With your UV pen check the O ring connections to the compressor and the drier cartridge on the condensor.

It should have been, I was scathing enough when the couple of brave souls posted that they were pursuing a claim. More fool me! I have just seen a TV ad for Mydieselclaim, I thought the deadline had passed? Perhaps they have been on all the time, I have not seen any TV for several months till yesterday.

You do not say what your engine is, petrol or diesel and what type (110 being a diesel?) but if you were two miles or less into a journey from a ambient temperature engine start there is no way that the water temp will have reached 90°c, the guage will read precisely that over a very wide temperature range. Oil is the engines primary coolant, this is often overlooked, your engine probably has an oil to water heat exchanger, the water cooling system will heat the oil during the warm up period and cool it under heavy load once the engine reaches normal running temperature which will be some while after the guage shows 90°c. The heat exchanger will easily keep the oil above 50°c in arctic conditions once the engine reaches normal running temperature. Any measurements taken after 2 miles or less are meaningless.

Did the heater keep going hot and cold during your 19 mile drive (not surprising with a low water level) or is it now reported by the mechanics after having fired the parts cannon at it?

That is the first "sound" video that anyone has posted on here when I could actually make out what they were complaining about!

Oh how I wished that I had taken that action instead of joking about it and pouring scorn on those who did who learned today of a right little earner. And I recently paid £150 to have the "fix" removed, covid restrictions meant I could not go to Celtic tuning for the remap, they would have done it free for me at that time, also add on the £99 I paid for an EGR emulator that arguably may not be needed now the "fix" has been unfixed. £2100 or what is left of it after the ambulance chasers fees is actually not much compensation for someone who may have had to pay to have their EGR, DPF, throttle valve etc replaced and putting up with a car that runs like **** and dealers whos attitude smells the same. Good on you those who claimed and more fool me!

Thanks for that. A sister vehicle but my 2015 Yeti did not have the teabag or any Silkat markings and the reservoir does not seem to be double skinned. Silkat when retained and not allowed to float around the system is supposed to protect the differing metals in the cooling systeml against bveing run without coolant protection, that is precisely what I did for close to 2 years due to my senility yet the plain tap water that came out was clear and unstained so maybe there is Silkat somewhere?

In which case you have as little to go on as we do. Unless you have no visual or auditory senses you must be able to answer Enternames very sensible and pertinent questions. The problem could well be the well documented Silkat teabag rupture but with only the scant details you are willing to reveal that can only be uninformed speculation.

I'm not sure that I will be able to contain my excitement while waiting for photographs of track rod ends, coolant hoses and a badge.