J.R.

Slipping clutch is not a symptom or indication of a failing DMF, vibration and knocking are, a failing DMF does not significantly affect the quality of gearchanged, if it is knocking so badly to do so you would be more than aware of it at tickover and driving at low revs. You may have had a worn clutch and any garage will replace the DMF with it as a matter of course, if you had ignored all the vibrations and knocking it is possible that the failed DMF could have damaged the clutch cover, its usually the drive straps between the cover and the drive ring that let go and not the diaphragm.

The holes are there, shine a torch down the inside and you will see them.

It worked on my 2015, I dont know if it will for all generations of Haldex controller but logic says it should for any that are the pre-emptive type, the system must be primed and the accumulator pressurised ready for when the engine starts, it could be that you are fleeing for your life from a Zombie Apocolypse and will dump the clutch at high revs!

+1 for Lesjofors/Kilen I have fitted 4 sets now and they have all performed far better then the OE ones although you would have to work hard to produce something even worse! And a thumbs down from me for Autodoc and the multitude of other supposed web based companies that are all in fact Autodoc and use exactly the same page layout, many of the brands they list they dont stock, I have known many people pay more for a certain big name brand known to them only for Autodoc to send out the same parts but from other pretend brands & again refuse to pay for or accept the return, Ebay and Paypal are always better for the buyer.

Cycling the ignition will purge the system and you will hear the pump running if you leave the door open and there is not constant background noise like the traffic passing my place.

Does F.M.S. translate at all well into Greek? None of them seem to in French with the exception of something that can be easily visualised, I use Judge Judy's "Don't pi55 on my leg and tell me it's raining!" and the intention and humour are understood.

I watched the end, you know some good expressions in English!!! (F.M.S.!) It certainly looks like head gasket but the cooling system will not behave properly if there is some air remaining unbled from the system and with the pressure cap removed, once it reaches operating temperature it is going to vent unless the cap is screwed home. I would refill, run with cap off to bleed, top up then fit the pressure cap and watch the temperature guage and overflow from the expansion vessel, do not remove the cap to check the level till the next day when everything has cooled. You could use a sniffer test kit but your nose is already telling you there are combustion gases, an alloy block & head that has overheated badly twice is likely to have done for the head gasket and/or liner seals but dont condemn it until you are sure.

That got my attention, mine is a 2005 Yeti bought 2 years ago without any history other than it has been an unrecorded write off, probably a Local Authority or Forestry Commission vehicle, that is by the by, it had good but not new Hankook tyres on it, all identical and all with equal wear, I assumed that they were not the original tyres and all 4 had been replaced at the same time. However having done another 22000 miles with very little additional wear on the tyres I am now wondering if they could have actually been the originals? Could you possibly let me know the exact model of your tyres? I would go out and check mine but its dark & peeing down with rain and my vision is not so good especially with wet glasses. I might perhaps hold the record for tyre longevity and they still have many more miles left in them yet, I have only just swopped them front to rear, I reckon at least another 40K miles judging by the wear during the last 22K.

"They" being people who speak in code & don't want others to understand them? 😆 Your money ........ something? You make.......... something? Yet maybe............ something?

Normal with age, nothing to worry about unless the reinforcing is exposed or there are any deformities. It is not a tracking issue just a rubber compound that includes a percentage of recycled diddlydidos.

Courtesy to those behind you at traffic lights etc during darkness especially if it is raining as well.

Valve definitely a suspect, I have had them where the inner core was not properly bonded into the outer rubber sleeve but did not leak on the immersion test, however if tweaked sideways by hand the air leaked & this was also happening when driving. Recently I had the core blow completely out of the inner tube on a trailer wheel, it was an old inner tube but had not been leaking, luckily I was not driving, I came out to find the tyre flat, when I went to reinflate it there was no Schrader valve & body in the inner tube, it was found several metres away.

Fragile ego, - very astute.

It should not need it if the lower swivel has the 3 bolts through close tolerance clearance holes in the lower wishbone as I recall them being. I have Dunlop tracking guages so do frequently check and find that the suspension is remarkably robust and does not move unless something is wearing to excess or an accident, I replaced the springs on the MK2 and nothing moved, I have just replaced the struts on the Yeti so will be checking that as a precaution, thanks for the reminder. I had the guages in my hands at the week-end but they were dismantled and the fragile optical & mirror parts packaged and I was moving them from the removal trailer to a storage unit, they aint coming out again until they reach their final workshop space unless I hit a kerb hard enough to blow a tyre or buckle an alloy wheel, thats what it took to move the alignment on the MK1 Octavia.

I love that! 👍 I can assure you that I will shamelessly plagiarise that, sadly too frequently, it would merit its place on my headstone! Happy new year to you and your loved ones.

Thanks for that, it's good to learn, in that case my suggested causes remain the same but the diagnosis will have to be old fashioned inspection and testing perhaps by substitution.

And a very good concise definitive suggestion it was too!

It could be the passenger side motor, unlikely given the lesser problem with the drivers side, it could be the controller which is integrated into the drivers side motor, it could be a damaged wire in the door bellows, more likely on drivers door, it could be corrosion of the connector to either of the window motors, more likely the drivers one. A VCDS scan will lead you either directly to which one of these it is or indirectly in the case of a fractured wire, corroded terminals etc. Knock yourself out charging the battery for as long low and slow that turns you on or disconnecting it if you want but it wont make the slightest bit of difference.

How would one lock a single window from use? As for the rest, - every day seems to be groundhog day.

Not at all, everything was spot on and within limits other than a previous tracking adjustment had been done on one track rod only meaning that when the vehicle drove in a straight line the steering wheel would have been slightly off centre. In correcting that they have got the tracking to the nominal setting from one closer to parallel but within the allowed tolerance. With the tyre wear you are experiencing you dont need a 4 wheel alignment to see what is going on, old school Dunlop tracking guages like mine or even a stringline or two straight edges to see that it is toeing in or out massively. I have done 21000 miles since buying my car, the tyres were good but not new, I cant recall the exact tread depth but it would have been less than the 8mm of a new tyre. I measured them yesterday on refitting them after deciding my winter tyres were not suitable for the towing journey this weekend, the fronts (now on the rear) had 4.5 & 5mm tread and the rears 6mm. You dont say what power your vehicle is, FWD or 4x4 or how you drive but the wear seems very excessive to me.

Fluid is expensive here, cheaper imported from Germany but with significant delivery costs, discolouring is normal & I dont mind extending the interval in that case but if it has significant clutch plate material in suspension it will just clog the filter quicker. The fluid has an easy job and you can smell if it has overheated, something that should never happen as the clutch cannot slip and burn out like the drivetrain clutch. Good point re the 30 interval, the old fluid had done 80K and it was pretty good, the filter very sludged up though.

I am at 2 years and 20K miles since cleaning the filter and changing the oil, the weather and my current working conditions are not the best for doing the work, at your current service regime how blocked does the filter look and what is the condition of the oil drained please? I might compromise with a clean and top up but not fluid change.

Load space is flat without the variofloor but there is a large lip when loading, variofloor can be retrofitted, I used one from a MK1 Octavia (2 sections only) freely available in scrapyards as most were fitted with them as standard, you need to modify the side supports. With a variofloor you end up with the loading bay flush with the boot slam panel but if you remove or tip forward the front seats there is a drop. TBH the Yeti for me has been a big disappointment in terms of carrying capacity, it makes clever use of what it has but is no match for the cavernous Octavia. People do carry bikes but I bet without the variofloor, forward folding passenger seats are rare but definitely worth searching for, if I could fold mine forward it would make up for the loss of length. Can't advise you regarding petrol engines other than to say if its not an emissions zone thing give a diesel one a try, a 140 or 150hp, you might be surprised. If you are ever going to be towing the higher powered and 4x4 versions have a much higher towing limit of 1800kg.

Measure the roof height or the wheelarch height if you can get the figures (I have them for my Yeti), you may simply find that the springs are shot and its dragging its ar5e like a dog with worms. I have found that fitting the uprated "rough road" spec springs raises the unladen ride height much more than 15mm due to the higher rate, the Octavia 2 on standard tyres stood much taller at the rear than an Octavia Scout, it was great for me because I carried lots of loads but the new owner complained that it looked like a 70's dragster. If the OP's springs have sagged he may well have sh@gged dampers as well, those two are the only combination that I can see which would make someone feel they would need to raise a standard vehicle driving on urban roads. The short term answer is to drive slower over speed humps, good practice for the future also.

double posting