J.R.

I see now that you say you have been driving for 50 years, that will make you at least 67, quite amazing!

Thankyou for your kind empathic understanding words Kodiaqsportline, You are correct, I don't own a Kodiaq nor have I ever driven a vehicle with an electric handbrake, I had not appreciated that I needed to have done that to have commented on my vision being troubled by high level LED brake lights that have far more luminous intensity than 21 watt incandescent brake light bulbs. I am blind in the left eye, its not illegal to drive with one eye but you can join the list of people who have told me that I should not do so, that its illegal etc although none in such a notable fashion as your good self, for your information you need 6/10 visual acuity in one eye wearing glasses or contact lenses if needed, I have 10/10ths with correction as do most people, I have been at 6/10 post operative and would not even walk to the corner of the road unaided let alone drive at that level. I was not lecturing anybody, I was countering your statement "It's a myth quoted by people who I can only assume never drive." I certainly was not lecturing others that I know better than anyone else, I was trying to give you the perspective of a group of people that you could not give a monkeys about, who should get a life and who you refer to as Mr Maghoo (thankyou again for that). If your approach to others does not preventyou from reaching a ripe old age then you will indeed suffer a degree of sight loss starting with Presbyopia in your eary 40's, then later on Cataracts and possibly Glaucoma, perhaps by then you might be capable of seeing the world through the eyes of others, pun intended. Just to add I have not said that its illegal to be at a standstill with brake lights illuminated & I dont think anyone else has either, also I never spoke about being blinded, I said my vision was affected by being dazzled, from that you chose to use the term blind or blinded no less than 6 times in your rant.

Model 3 meaning Tesla? Not everyone, especially me, knows all the acronyms. I have only recently seen what a Tesla looks like, I saw a car in my mirror, it looked modern but with a very low bonnet line, then I saw another from a different angle and made the connection, I only see them on the autoroutes & have never seen one at a standstill. My village has had 3 charging points for maybe 4 years now (state subsidised, sponsored more like) and I have never ever seen a vehicle charging on them, most other villages around here have them as well (they all love grabbing the subsidies) and never seen a vehicle charging there either, I park next to the charging point at Lidl 2 or 3 times a week, its been there about 4 years again, last week I saw the first ever vehicle charging there. The Renault dealer has those electric single seater s**zwagons with the plastic sidescreens, has saved them a fortune in loan vehicles because everybody decides to walk once they have seen what their vehicule de courtoisie looks like!!!!

Thanks for that and for opening my eyes to systems like the heat pump recovery. Its time I started learning about these vehicles, I will buy a scrap one and ponce about recelling the battery pack as soon as they are sold at a reasonable price which in my country means never.

I wonder if the law or equivalent of Construction & Use regulations in China require a spare wheel and a full sized one at that?

I want one!!!!!!

Its certainly not a myth for me but its for sure exacerbated by all the eye operations and the eyedrops for glaucoma. Its not the brake lights but the LED high level ones and latterly the LED rear light clusters, the law still limits their light output by Watts so they are getting brighter and brighter. The darker or gloomier it is outside the worse it is, being on Le Shuttle is very very difficult where drivers leave their ignition on to charge phones or watch videos, you dont need to be looking directly at a light source, if you look at something else with the central macular vision light coming in the side still makes your pupil contract, in anything less than bright sunlight I can then no longer see what I am looking at clearly (or at all at night) and am dazzled by the light from the side. I can not run with my running club during the winter as they wear more and more powerfull head torches switched on even though 90% of our evening runs are within the town with good street lighting, we set off from the club in the town square which has superb lighting, high up where it doesn't dazzle, there has to be 20 minutes of hand shaking and kissing etc, they have their head torches on full and look you straight in the face, none of them can have ever been on a proper trek etc and learned fireside etiquette. Its a particular region with very insular forcefull people (syndicalistes) who also take the view "Am I blinded? Not in the slightest." and "Couldn't give a monkeys. If you have a problem" I hope your vision remains good throughout your life, its very very important, chances are though as you get older you will develop cataracts and perhaps Glaucoma hopefully only mild but you will then have an understanding and perhaps some empathy.

I have done that as well but it leaves very little width and is taller than the parcel shelf, the storage of which creates even bigger problems. I accepted that I would lose 1/3 of my carrying capacity with the Yeti, its the loss of the spare wheel that is increasingly becoming a problem, my long journeys now and for the foreseeable future will be mostly fully loaded. I might look at making a cradle to go on the tow coupling, not so easy as it is a NATO jaw type hitch with a central ball pin.

I was very tempted by the Octavia type retractable luggage covers that were on Ali-Express etc for Chinese market Yetis because if I see some materials or whatever cheap while I am in a Brico getting them in the vehicle usually goes well until I have to find somewhere for the solid parcel shelf. On close examination I found that the interior side panels and tailgate are very different on the Chinese Yeti, I have a suspicion that the rear hatch may even open sideways.

What is so wrong about that Paul? Its very relevant to the desire to have a full size spare wheel and not lose even more of the minimal luggage space in the Yeti. I created a variofloor, its filled with only 2/3 of the essential stuff that I carried in the Octavia that still had a full size spare underneath, now I have a space saver and take it for long journeys but it completely screws my ability to carry other items, I have looked at all possibilities of carrying it elsewhere and a swing out rack on the rear would be excellent for my needs.

I did what you propose on my MK2 Octavia and there were only positives. I'm not sure if its the same on the MK1 but its logical that it would be, the immobiliser data is shared with and/or stored on the ECU, sellers of the "plug n play" units will have disabled the immobiliser in order to make it work, this for me was an advantage as theft is not a problem but the cost of programming new keys and the availability of such where I live is prohibitive. If your vehicle has visible modifications and might be a target for thieves you should check the immobiliser situation regarding the exchange ECU. One other thing my odometer display still showed the correct mileage for the vehicle but if I did a milage check using VCDS it brought up the much higher mileage that the donor vehicle of the ECU had covered.

You can safely ignore all that you have read about faulty coilpacks.

OK it was the miles per hour that confused me, they meany miles of range per charging hour. Aérodynamic efficiency can only be a fraction of a percent different between any current vehicle whatever the power source, all the gains have already been made in the last 40 years, a smaller frontal area will always consume less fuel for a given drag coefficient. Like you I don't think that Brand X's electric motor can be significantly more efficient than Brand Y, Unless someone can explain it to me then I can't see how a battery management system or different regenerative braking can make such a quantum difference to how many miles a vehicle can travel per kwatt of energy. I think all the manufacturers are having a larf with their miles per kwatt figures, some much more so than others and all the motoring journalists and influencers are their paid mouthpieces.

Can you explain that in laymans terms for a simpleton please? I don't understand what you mean by "effectively making it charge faster in terms of miles per hour" I can understand that a 28kwh battery pack will charge faster than a 40kwh one and over a long distance would need charging more times. I know all electric heating is as close to 100% efficient as can be (any losses create heat) despite what the snake oil salesman say about their heaters, with a vehicle power unit you want torque output and not heat, are one manufacturers electric motors any more efficient than anothers?

Lambda sensor = O2 sensor, you have found the reason for the fault code. Had you reconnected the plug & left it connected before erasing the fault code & was it still connected when the MIL light came on? If so then my hypothesis about a failed Lambda sensor & them disconnecting it was correct & you should replace it.

It was about 2.5mm but I cant judge sizes like I once could after losing one eye. Yes something like that would do it although I probably have some exact size bar stick somewhere, it will only get done if the replacement fails.

The damaged section at the top right and also towards the left at the top edge (that might be a trick of the photo) lead me to question their diagnosis, toughened glass does not break in two or more places at the same time; its very strong in the centre but exposed edges can be broken easily. If it happened where the photo is taken I would suspect attempted forced entry, are there any scratches or chips to the paintwork beside where the piece is missing at the top right, witness marks from a tool? Or is it shattered across the whole screen and bits outside of the sealant line have simply fallen out? Its difficult to see with the rain drops & my eyesight.

It does look to be the oxygen sensor from the photo that TMB has posted. I would say that it had failed and the mixture was going high or low and it was disconnected so it could run on the default limited operating strategy map which will block the cat in a relatively short time if not replaced. It should trigger the MIL lamp so that is a mystery.

Thankyou for that, I stand corrected 👍 Will be a pig of a job on a RHD with DPF, the clutch cylinder is difficult enough until you have done it 10 times then you can do it blindfolded, in fact its preferable! Did you notice that he had destroyed the release latch on the connector? Hands up anyone who can honestly say they havn't done the same on another connector at some time!!!!

It's a cable and not a linkage, I know that now but did not before this afternoon, its all quite well protected and dead clean up there, you dont need to remove the doorpanel, clip out the tweeter and then one screw to remove the inner handle, the cable disconnects easily.

I replaced my handle this afternoon, I thought that I had exhausted all the round tuits during the confinement (which has been 2 years of no work for me) but that one had been forgotten so thanks to the OP. On scrutinising the old one after replacement I found that it wasn't actually broken but the hinge pin had fallen out and is probably at the bottom of the door, the absence was not visible with it in situ and the cable connected, I thought the hinge boss on the handle had broken. This info might be of use to the OP. Removal of the handle is easy, finding the hinge pin at the bottom of the door would be less so, I would have made a new pin had I realised before buying the second hand handle.

Look inside your fuel filler cap at the pressure chart and you will see all the tyre sizes that were homologated for your vehicle. That does not mean that they will fit your rim width/diameter or even have been homologated for your particular model but it will give you something to go on. My winter wheel set currently on my Yeti I used on my Octavia 2 before that, I bought them from a Briskoda Yeti owner, they are 215/65R16, they filled the space better but many would not have liked the look of them preferring bigger rims and rubber band tyres to fill the arches, I could not give a four X but they do look more at home now on the high ride height "Outdoor" version of the Yeti.

I hope you dont mind me asking why you need to find the part number, is it by any chance because a garage or mechanic unable to resolve a problem have told you that it needs a new ECU? If so then explaining the details of the problem on here may well result in a simple and cheap resolution and avoid a lot of wasted time and expense.

I can view it on my Maxidot display.

I did not make it clear enough that the PDWA is not the brake light switch but a sensor to warn when there is an imbalance between the pressures in the two diagonal split braking circuits, usually caused by a leaking caliper seal. I am very confident that the wires you have found on the master cylinder will not be for the brake light switch if your master cylinder resembles the one in the parts diagram, if anyone can prove me wrong then I will be delighted to learn but I don't want you wasting your time fumbling around in an inaccessible area & perhaps removing theconnector from the brake failure warning system and perhaps not being able to reconnect it. The switch and connector are normally in the dry protected cabin environment somewhere on the pedal box, it is indeed a double pole switch, one pair of contacts for the engine ECU, the other for the body control module (brake lights). The clutch master cylinder does however have a reed switch to sense when the clutch is depressed.