J.R.

It took me 2 years to work that one out Urrel, its the way that I prefer to bed in new brakes or deglaze them from time to time. And I didn't even work it out, I read it on here, if it was you then thanks again 👍 Given that I always experiment to achieve what I want when a control system or ECU won't play ball I was very embarrased & humbled that I had not tried what now seems to be the obvious.

To achieve any reduction in width you would have to completely deflate the tyre and even then I doubt you would even gain one centimeter. If you carry a fully deflated tyre its highly likely that you will not be able to reinflate it with a footpump or electric tyre pump due to the beads not being sealed. Even with a garage compressor you often have to remove the valve core to allow enough air to pass quickly enough and sometimes that isn't enough, I have a portable air reservoir with a short length of large bore hose leading to a PCL connector and a 3/4" bore lever operated gate valve, with the valve core removed, the PCL connector in place and the reservoir at 10 bar opening the valve quickly will seat a reluctant bead enough to seal.

Actually having now watched the video yours looks more like a sticky mechanism, it does return under sring loading when you push it, mine is all floppy in the closed position.

Yes you need a new handle, mine has been like yours for a very long time, I have not even viewed the video but know exactly what the problem is. The same handle is used on the Octavia 2 and are easier and cheaper to find second hand, most of them have a plated chrome finish, my Yeti one is plain black plastic which seems to be a lot weaker than the chrome one, I did eventually get a cheap black one from an Octavia on E-bay. Your posting has reminded me of a job that I can do today!

Given its position on the master cylinder between the outlets for the diagonal split braking circuits it will most likely be a PDWA sensor (pressure differential warning actuator). I dont know of any PQ35 platform VAG vehicles that use a hydraulic brake switch but will be happy to learn otherwise, poor translations might once again have led to confusion.

What are you talking about man! Where did I say understanding another language is easy? Perhaps you quoted the wrong person.

Disconnect it ASAP, its the self destruct countdown timer 😆 That might be wrong, the countdown might start from when you disconnect it 😆

Does it by any chance have headlight washers for Xenon lamps? They use gallons of washer fluid every time you wash the screen and maybe also at programmed intervals. The only car I had them on was a Sierra Ghia, no idea why they bothered but I disconnected them pretty sharpish as I was having to fill the massive reservoir too often.

Sounds probable if it has Climatronic. I have the much simpler manual heater and AC in this vehicle after Climatronic in the previous ones, the only drawback is having to juggle the heat control on a cold start cold day, it needs max until engine up to temp and then progressively turning down, Climatronic takes care of that well, the rest for me now is just unnecessary complication. The two centre vents will be at the same temperature as they share the same duct, flap and thermocouple, the thermocouples in the outer ones can become detached, they are situated right near the outlet. I would check thermocouple 1.

I didn't clean but changed to new LHD units so as good a clean as you can get, the dip beam pattern aside which was the goal the difference in light output was astounding. They were still crap units compared to my Yeti though. On my MK1 before eventually biting the bullet with new LHD units when I found the light output had become feeble on one unit I realised it was because I had lost the bulb access dust cover years before and the reflector silver was grimy, when cleaned once again the difference was astounding.

North West France!!!

Its definitely worth upgrading the luggage compartment lights to LEDs, they really are pathetic, I don't find the reversing lights too good either but they are enough for the rear camera so I tend to use that more than the mirrors at night, increasing the brightness of them could dazzle people. One day I may uprate the map reading lamps, they are not too bright but get the light where its needed and dont dazzle.

I fitted my dirt cheap aftermarket shocks Tuesday and they have transformed the vehicle, not only the pitching but the general suspension harshness and crashing over anything but a billiard table surface. My UK neighbour has a low mileage 2012 Octavia which is the same vehicle under the skin and it has always really crashed over bumps, he blamed it over having the tyres inflated for towing. 2 years ago when I got my Yeti it was far more refined than his car and his wife wanted him to sell it, I persuaded him (he is a very nervous type) to let me fit new rear springs and bump stops as it was dragging its ar5e like a dog with worms, the ride improved when towing but still crashed over all the bumps. My shocks were fine on a bump test when I got the vehicle at 4 years old, in hindsight they deteriorated after 6 months and became crashy and noisy, I blamed it on the continued deterioration of UK roads while I was away, the car ran smoothly on French roads, it gradually got worse and I am very embarrassed to have found that they were completely shot before I realised from the pitching motion, in my defence I no longer drive like a hooligan. I expect the cheapest pattern part shocks I fitted will outlast the OE ones. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/361319373042?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

Hear-Hear! 👍

If you can see significant corrosion in the recessed "well" on the filter top cover then set aside some time to remove and treat the rust and repaint it, if left it will eventually perforate spraying diesel all over the place and starving the engine. Very good instructions and advice from MicMac 👍

Well done, I know how hard it is even with total immersion over 15 years, I am in awe of those who can do far better without any exposure to the language and with nothing more than books etc. You are an inspiration!

Ok that makes sense, thanks for confirming that you have done the sniffer test. Its a bodge but costs nothing and might, just might allow the gases to bleed off without losing water or the engine overheating on your daily run. Its something that I did when I had a major head gasket leak & had to drive back from Norfolk, aside from driving on part throttle using the vacuum guage I had released the rad cap one detent so that it released to the overflow without pressurising, I ran the overflow pipe under the bonnet/wing gap and kept an eye on the steam coming out, when it stopped it was time to top up the radiator. My suggestion to you is to unscrew the filler cap just enough to bleed off a small bit of pressure when the engine is hot and leave it like that, do your 40 mile journey keeping a close eye on the temperature, it might, just might allow the gases to bleed off without losing any fluid or less than you are losing now, in any case its preferable to it entering the cylinder as you suspect which could result in hydraulic lock. I feel for your situation, you have an otherwise really reliable engine and vehicle whose value doesn't justify spending money on a significant repair.

How much does it cost to buy a house of an undisclosed size and condition in an undisclosed country?

Very concise and well put!

He is writing in his second language, having lived & worked abroad for many years and recieving clients of all nationalities I am no longer phased when I hear or read something that makes no sense, I try to work out what they were trying to say, in this case I am confident it would be "I have too high a concentration of anti-freeze in my coolant mixture"

Why do you want to do this? Are you having problems seeing or being seen on the road? If it were a MK2 Octavia with the hopeless halogen projector lamps I would understand completely, I used a HID conversion with mixed results, by comparison the standard halogen lamps on the Yeti are superb and I am someone visually handicapped that needs very good lighting.

If you don't have a knowledge of the physics involved, if you cannot relate to the everyday example that I used to illustrate, if you don't recognise the exact same words (mantra) always being used by all the manufacturers, then I completely understand that you would choose to believe those who have a financial gain to make by disseminating the fairy tale over some bloke on a forum.

My bugbear is the trend for rear indicators to have clear glass and be microscopically small hidden amongst rear lights that look like the Starship Enterprise, the kind of indicators that cops are all over 16 year olds for if they have fitted them to their mopeds, and with good reason, but then they drive home off shift in something even worse! Today I saw a stupid front indicator on a small hatchback, Vauxhall, maybe Renault, it surrounded the whole headlight unit, at least it couldn't be missed, as I passed the vehicle (it was oncoming) I said to myself I bet you can't even see the rear indicator, - I wasn't dissapointed. They must employ 12 year olds in the styling department or perhaps they realise that modern parents having singularly failed to instill any respect or discipline in their offspring are desperate to gain their approval when they buy a new car? There are loads of car ads showing entitled kids approving or not of their parents vehicles on the school run, perhaps they are indeed being "simply clever"

I wish you luck with your quest Nigel, you are going to need it. There was no offence taken nor aggression on my part.