J.R.

It really needs the sealing washer on the inside and there are ways of doing it usually requiring enlarging the hole to winkle in a split flange with tapped holes and a gasket then fixing a plain flange on the outside it needs to be flat but with a plastic tank the curvature will pull flat. A very fast way which for a diesel tank I would not hesitate to use would be to fit an Avdel thin sheet nutsert with a bolt and sealing washer.

Back in the days before Elf & safety when fuel tanks were steel & would rust out in the blink of an eye several companies sold bodges to repair them, Granville Petropatch was one of them, like a sticky band aid with some paint on resin. Like weedkillers there is a much more expensive totally useless "Eco friendly" version available to sell you false hope in exchange for your moolah, trading on the name of the past which actually did what it said on the tin: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Granville-0455-Petro-Patch-Putty/dp/B004OS8N1W

"I was told by my Skoda dealer..........(insert random BS here)..................." The forum swear filter should be programmed to insert the above whenever it detects "I was told by my Skoda dealer/the mechanic/the service receptionist"

If it was done on insurance then its what happens, premiums after all are more expensive in city postcode areas.

TPS.

Someone has been making hay on the insurance companies dollar, with a ramp/vehicle lift and transmission jack I could do the job in a few hours, I recently did 4 wheel alignment on mine involving realigning both front and rear subframes lying on the floor using a pair of laser spirit levels & a piece of card and it took less than an hour, very hard to get the rear subframe bolts loose from that position but with a 2 post lift it would have been easy. I bet the scrotes got more fuel on their tracky bottoms and the road than they did into their tank.

Thermostat fitted backwards? Aftermarket thermostat lacking the circulation hole? Heater would work with a blocked radiator, rather too well in fact, what you are describing points to thermostat but you really need a genuine temperature sender to have faith in the readings, if the whole system were at 130°c I would expect to see the pressure cap blowing off steam.

A very interesting article for me but the graphics were absolutely crap, I could not see beside the text the skeleton representations of the two runners it was either behind the text or jumping around between random images, a picture is worth a thousand words and those words desperately needed the pictures. The shame is that the pictures and animations were so well done and could have really been helpfull, I guess whoever proof read it must have known the subject perfectly. A real shame, if you have any other articles to better explain running gait please post them.

Why remove undertrays or wheelarch liners when you can simply clear and rod the drain holes from above with a straightened wire coathanger? If your toilet blocks do you go straight to digging up the garden or start at the WC pan?

I must have had a moment of lucidity, I know how to do these things, mainly self taught through experimentation and learning the hard way how not to do something, it's instinctive but incredibly hard (for me) to explain in words, in that respect Youtube videos are far better as long as its not a nacissist who loves the sound of his own voice. Working with fellow engineers of different nationalities but who were hands on like me we could understand 100% how to do a job by watching each other perform the task, far far better than I could explain it to a fellow English speaker. I used to use a very narrow sharp cold chisel on the edges of core plugs or a pin punch of about 1/4 the plug diameter with a sharp non deburred or worn edge, chain drilling 1/8" holes close to the flange around a 90° arc will the weaken the interference fit to either rotate the plug or displace that part to get a lever behind.

I paid €320 for a LUK full clutch & DMF kit including delivery from Italy. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161989960427?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

Look on 7zap or similar for a parts list illustration for the screen washer system and you will probably see that the pipes have a joiner under the dashboard, I seem to recall seeing one there on my Yeti when I had the dashboard removed. Or it may have been a dream!!!!

Could it be an idle control stepper motor? Looks more like a modulating valve to me

Ralentir in French is to slow down many verbs are similar in Latin languages, could the object be an idle bypass valve? They have been known by many names over the years, on my 82 VW it was a "digital idle stabiliser" Even so I am unsure of what the OP wants to know about configuration let alone steep to steep. Perhaps the question was "does anyone have step by step (installation?) instructions for this item? I know the forum rules say English only but in this instance perhaps we should encourage the OP to post his question in his language, presumably Spanish.

I decided to play with VCDS to try and force my fuel guage to be more truthfull at the bottom part of its range, I want it to show empty when it is empty and not with its "virtual reserve" capacity unused, ideally the remaining miles to be truthfull as well but not sure if that would actually happen. I had just watched a youtube video of someone changing the values in VCDS on a Golf, it showed the reference value of 112 ohms and it could be changed within tha range of IIRC 100 ohms and 128 ohms, something like that, he made the changes & then went to measuring blocks and it was apparent that when he changed to the max & min values not only did his guage go from 1/8 to 3/8 of a tank but the system saw the fuel quantity change from 5 to 11 litres, again something like that I cant recall the exact values. I had just brimmed my tank squeezing in 56 litres or so and have only driven 6 miles, VCDS advanced measuring values (no measuring blocks) showed the tank capacity to be 56l, I wanted to get this up to 60l and I would do some more checks when the tank was nearly empty. I also found measuring blocks for fuel senders 1, 2 and 3 and mine had values for senders 1 & 2 of 27 and 33 ohms respectively, I have seen the large bayonet fittings on each upper side of my fuel tank, I had thought that one was the sender the other the fuel pump plus pick up & return pipes, does it actually have twin senders so as not to have a false reading if fuel sloshes from one side to the other after cornering? My question on the adaption values, it shows the existing figure as 0.0 but does not indicate the allowable range, I tried using 1.0 which was accepted but it did not seem to make any difference, does anybody know what range of values is available? Are they plus and minus say from 1 to 10 meaning 90 to 110% for instance? The default figure of 0.0 does not give me any clues.

No idea I'm afraid, at that time breakers yards were my only source of supply.

It will be the carbon tracks in the sender unit becoming oxidised or the wiper contact having lost its spring loading. After repairing mine several times I would recommend replacement, my tweaks and repairs never seemed to last and a couple of times I ran out where it was still showing fuel and I had not been keeping an eye on the trip meter.

Probably not tightened, I had something similar once, drastic torque steer when I had neglected to tighten IIRC the inner wishbone pivot bolt. Did she say "oh yes, it's felt a bit odd for a very long time!"?

So the 200mpg includes charging with paid electricity from the mains? Why can't you or they not simply state how many mpg the vehicle is doing whilst it is actually running on the internal combustion engine? If it was recharging free overnight from solar power (I know, I know!) or from the battery fairy then I could accept the 200mpg as a valid measure.

There are literally hundreds of sites in all the European countries that all lead back to Autodoc, probably truer to say all linked to Autodoc because who is behind them all I'm not sure, the websites and the way you search, how the results are presented etc etc etc are pretty much identical, ato24.de sounds exactly like many of them that I have ordered from. Like the OP it has usually been brake & disc combos that I have bought but also backplates, caliper seals, suspension bump stops, oils, filters etc etc, the brake discs have always been very good but the pads dissapointing despite the impressive packaging and Germanic sounding brand names or Delphi they have all like the discs been made in China, all of them I have had to replace with Ferodo Eco Friction to get back initial bite and progressive braking, they were all beginning to score & chew up the discs. I cant really complain because they effectively cost nothing but next time I will buy discs only and not be tempted by the bundled deals.

Its normal, the word "differential" is the clue, it compares the DPF pressure with atmospheric pressure & the tube is to sample the atmospheric pressure, there will be some reason why they dont just have an opening on the sensor, I dont know the reason for that but the open tube is normal.

Its a VSP in France - Voiture Sans Permis, no driving license needed, can be driven by 14 year olds, those that cannot pass a driving test or those who have been banned from driving. As such the things that are desired and the article suggests will happen like exceeding 45km/h or having 3 seats just aint gonna happen, the legislation states maximum 6kw and 2 seats. What would it be registered as in the UK and what are the restrictions there for that class of vehicle? Could it even be registered? We can register quad bikes here, you can't in the UK.

The blind spot that I am referring to is the one in the door mirrors, I can see them both with my right eye, I just have to turn my neck further, I can see a car approaching from behind in the rear view mirror, there is an overlap transition to the door mirror, as the car gets closer it disappears completely in the blind spot that motorcyclists should be very aware of. Its no more than a cars length and represents less than a second if they continue at their overtaking speed but it seems to be a magnetic holding area!!!! I have tried the aspheric (or is it non aspheric) wide angle mirrors but they only seem to work if they are on the mirror beside the drivers seat, the angles are wrong for the other side. In that respect the problem is aggravated by my driving a RHD vehicle in Europe, however being in the right seat means that at least by sitting up I can swivel round enough to check the blind spot with my right eye, if I were in the correct left seat I would have to take off my seat belt and step up out of the seat which is what I always used to do when reversing, reversing cameras have been a game changer. When you check your left mirror you probably don't turn your head, you can glance = swivel your eyes so that the image is in your HD macular vision zone of both eyes, I have to turn my head and the brain is only processing one image. We have priorité à driote here and many drivers will just take it without looking at all, it catches out many tourists who end up T-boning someone who has pulled out right in front of them only to find that they are responsable for the accident. In my case when I approach a junction where I have priority (it will be on my left) at an acute angle, to be safe I have to come to a complete stop to look behind, I cannot rely on the door mirror, I have to turn my body right round lifting out of the seat, the drivers behind become incandescent with rage, tooting and shaking their fist because I don't take "my priorité" but in fact they cannot see at all if there is oncoming traffic because of the buildings or trees. Motorcyclists in the UK are taught to do a "life saver" look over their shoulder before overtaking and thats what I do if I have not been constanty checking all the mirrors and blind spots, say after looking at the satnav or speedometer. Anyone with one eye is allowed to drive, we are subject to the same testing régime and minimum requirements as those with binocular vision. I appreciate the sympathetic manner in which you put your observations and i take them in the spirit in which they were made, they are a good example that some should observe. I used the wrong wording, I should have said "oblivious to the danger in which they have placed themselves", moreover if they are not aware that sitting at a certain position will most likely be invisible to the driver adjacent to them, the one that they might be boxing in behind a slower moving HGV, where if they were aware and looked ahead they would move out to the 3rd lane if safe to do so and not in front of a faster moving car so as to be courteous or avoid being sideswiped they will not be physically looking over their shoulder to check their own blind spots when they should.

Well done you and its nice to see someone else repairing rather than replacing an alternator even if it did not turn out to be the fault.

They drift against the side flange to rotate the plug. I think you meant a 6mm diameter rod but the witness marks in the 30mm plug indicate the use of both a 10mm and 20mm diameter drift. Perforated ones are a sod but the 30mm one should have come out with the right technique, with perforated ones its better to pierce a hole in the weak part to get a cranked lever through to lever outwards against the stronger part.