J.R.

That means that they are running all the time (even when switched off) and that the output is variable according to the cooling demand rather than a clutch engaging either full operation or nothing. The OP's evaporator may well have been going through a defrost cycle if the humidity was high, my home reversible aircon does this when heating in winter, I can hear the crash as the ice falls off outside, in summer its the inside unit that pauses but no noise as its just condensate that drips out which could be what the OP suffered.

Someone who would look to see why the pads wont go into place, someone who is not going to hammer them into position, grind them down or mix old and new pads putting the old in different positions.

They are illuminated all the time, I am partially sighted and find them usefull to be able to guide my hand to the non illuminated switches for the map reading and interior lights. I need to check my car because I think that it behaves differently to what has been stated here, I am certain I dont have panel lighting other than the LED light that bleeds through the legends and instrument needles. I am also sure that if I switch off after a run leaving the headlights on that it doesn't beep to warn me because I had been driving a few days on headlights without realising, that said I was getting warning chimes when testing the trailer lighting, it was after switching the ignition off and getting out, it may have been because I had not run the engine. More things to discover, from this forum I learned after 15 years that it is actually possible to deglaze my brakes by balancing the throttle against them, I had never learned the magic word!

Its probably one of the vehicles that did not have towing preparation ordered on the factory build and that has a zero towing limit on the CoC and V5 I would love to have that display if I were able to change the figures with VCDS, that would come in very very handy for my next few journeys!

Never in the country from which I presume you are quoting the highway code And even if I did on getting to my destination or home at night and forgetting to turn the light switch off, which was the object of my comment, the headlights would be turned on and not the sidelights.

This is a sensible and plausible response to a menu feature (probably created by a bored teenager) that has blank values. As for all the hypotheses of load cells etc measuring the towball loading they are just pure comedy but please keep them coming Skyhooks gets my favorite vote so far

He won't care because he wont fail it, the answer to your question was "no!"

I dont think that mine has dash lights, just illuminated needles and figures, they probably seemed brighter in the dark conditions. I find them too bright but there is no dimmer. The Yeti has a very intelligent body control module, if you leave your headlights switched on and lock the vehicle they will shut down after a short period, if you leave the sidelights on they will remain on as they are for emergency use. The interior lights also shut down after a timed period in case the rear hatch was not properly closed. So you can leave headlights or interior lights on with no risk of flattening the battery but sidelights can as they should, none of us should be driving on sidelights so there is no risk.

Aside from all ally engines you would be hard pressed to find a lighter engine than the Kent for the power that it can produce. The same goes for the 2000e gearbox and English axle differential.

I'm sorry, I just can't help repeating myself

CT cars West Horsley. They did my remap and only work on VAG, they seemed very knowledgable and have good google reviews. I can't recommend the VAG specialist in the Effingham road Copthorne, too busy, too expensive & not interested. But if they really are so booked up then some people must reckon them.

sorry about that, all the time the car was stuck in the UK while I was stuck in lockdown in France with nothing to do I was dreaming up things I wanted to do to the new car, once I had it and was using it cruise control is for my current circumstances not worth the effort to do as it would rarely be used. I am fairly sure I would have needed a column stalk, a different revision clockspring and to have fitted a missing wire to the loom.

That is a reasonable price for genuine OE parts.

You are my hero For 16 years I have had to resort to the brutal technique of repeated full on ABS high speed emergency stops on a deserted downhill road, it did more harm than good usually glazing the pads while deglazing the discs. After my brief test I can see where its removing the corrosion that has begun to creep in on my new (12 months ago) rear discs, they need more work but now I will be able to prevent any recurrence and get a full service life out of them. I can't believe that I have never tried that, I usually try every possible variation even if it seems daft.

I have never managed to have power and brakes for descaling my discs, I am going to go out now and try your method. When I return you will either be a hero or have broken through my gullibility defences

If you still have your old sheared hub you may be able to make a good one out of the two, I had to do that on my last car as the original hub was the only one not made of cheese, I had had a new pump fail (hub splines stripped) plus a replacement hub, re-using the original worked for a year until I sold it, who knows if it has held up since.

I was going to suggest that the hub may have stripped but as it had sheared in the first place I thought there must be some foreign object inside the system being chewed up by the pump., the replacement hubs are made of cheese, to have any chance of them working for any length of time the hub needs fitting with a good quality Loctite bearing fit, the same goes for new compressors from China (& most branded ones actually come from there) the hub needs removing and loctiting, often you will find it was barely more than finger tight. I dont hold out much hope for your oil & Araldite attempt, I get where you are coming from but have been there and got the T shirt, its not the power transmitted by the drive that causes the failures (and the resistance is far more when pumping) but the non constant velocity of the crankshaft drive, the constant stress reversals even after being damped by the dual mass pulley and serpentine belt, the slightest bit of play or give in the cheese material or Araldite & the splines will fret away.

Electrickery. A 12v motor and an encoder both wired to the Climatronic or Heater controller. No Canbus.

I have just been to the Covid test drop in centre, in and out in less than 3 minutes including filling out the paperwork which took most of the time, it was free for me as a French resident with Carte Vitale (health cover) but we will all have to pay from Autumn. The present cost for you forriners is €43.79 so you can budget for it.

The vent flap actuators are not Canbus controlled.

If the CoC for your vehicle VIN number states that then the vehicle is homologated full stop, it doesn't matter what they say, it is that information that the DVLA use for the weights on the V5. Have you actually seen the certificate for your vehicle or are you relying on what is being said to you? If the latter then with respect it has as little validity as what Top Gear magazine may write. I think VAG are applying overshrewdness, the CoC and the vehicle data plate will not show any towing weight unless you have bent over, dropped your trousers and accepted being reamed for factory towbar prep.

I let it drop, the confinement came in soon after & the car was hardly used, its only done one proper long journey in the 15 months since, I have reverted to how I was before having CC for a couple of years on the MK2 Octavia, I don't miss something that I have never had = I have forgotten now that I once had it and appreciated it.

Covid tests were free to all nationalities in France until the 7th of this month, now they are chargeable for non French residents and we will all have to pay for them by the Autumn. Everything I read says that I will still have to serve a 10 day quarantine and do tests on days 2 and 8, I am double vaccinated with Phizer but it was not done by the NHS, I am hoping that requirement will be dropped or the UK will have no tourists from Europe, nearly all of my time will be spent at my address anyway and I cant take the stupid ruling seriously. You can go to a covid drop in test centre in France and get the results either that night or by 10am the next morning, trying to synchronise that with a non refundable ferry or tunnel crossing plus having proof of payment for the UK day 2 and 8 tests is a major pain in the backside and stress when you dont need it.

"Car was diagnosed but not single one error come up"......................................... I did that (not in skoda authorized service) and nothing came up........................................................ ................................except something about immobilizer