J.R.

Shirley no garage would do that.

I sympathise with your neighbours.

Up tight, outa sight and in the groove!

Its the A/C evaporator drain.

I recall there was not much room for spring compressors, I did the job so must have overcome the problem & I do recall struggling, over a decade ago so I am only guessing but I reckon I would have jacked up the hub to bring it up to normal ride height & then restrained the spring with 2 ratchet straps allowing the strut to release. I do recall the straps being on the springs to reassemble them on the new struts.

Then ask why and you might understand instead of condemning. Open your mind.

I dont believe that the sump sensor actually measures the oil quality but happy to learn otherwise, I think it measures the level and the temperature, and there is an algorithm that calculates the oil quality by using the temperature input, the miles driven, the speed, the throttle opening, EGR, regens etc etc etc. And we all have 100% confidence in algorithms dont we Happy to be corrected.

Every car I have had with this type of adjuster since the early 90's has had this "characteristic" bloomin annoying but I am used to it now, interesting to learn that it doesnt meet safety standards. I had a really hard rear end shunt while stationary at motorway roadworks, vehicle behind hit me at high speed, I blacked out initially and came round on the back seat with the vehicle slowly accelerating down Reigate Hill & had to clamber over the fully reclined seatback to stop the vehicle. The seatback wound back to its upright position and the mech was undamaged, it behaved as normal including the slow recline. I dont know if it is a safety feature but it did limit my injuries that day. Good luck with yout quest for resolution but I think these mechanisms have always been like that.

I saw the photos of that on the other thread Tone, I think the sections were side by side giving a lift of 50mm which is what your joggled drawbar looks like its raised by, I eventually raised mine by 50mm but it needs to go up another 100mm, less some for loading so it will be a total of 10cm initially & then higher if need be.

Comparing the rear bumper mouldings in my picture and the Captains one I would say that my Yeti's ride height is 60mm higher, is yours an Outdoor model or perhaps a Greenline Captain? Unless they make a towbar for every model they are on a hiding to nothing.

Lots of levering & persuasion & it will come out as thats the way you get it back in although you can start it at an angle & then push the strut backwards to align it at which point it will slip in like a slippery stick up a dogs jacksie, you have rust & grime working against you on disassembly, you need to wedge open the clamp, there are special tools but I just use a cold chisel. If it wont release doing that then compress the spring and raise the strut.

It is actually quite good, given the price I would have been dissapointed with anything less. Realistically the limitation is its volume and aperture size, its like a BR ashtray, its good for the stones when I eat dates, bellybutton fluff and nasal excretions

What I would really prefer to do is simply run it out of fuel but read of so many scare storys of the entire fuel system being wrecked which is why i am asking the question specifically of the C.R. VAG engines, clearly people do run them out and not pay the price but if there is a real rather than hypothetical risk I am not going to do so, the there is also the repriming of the system which I could probably due by carrying the computer and VCDS. It really would be my preferred option, doing it on roads like I used last time I could shut down immediately there was any hesitancy and not run the pumps dry.

Only 1.5 😯 You clearly were not brave at all and never got to see just how far you could have gone, maybe this one will prove to be different but even Skoda quote a "reserve" of 5 litres or reduce the stated tank capacity by that amount and its been more like 6.5/7 litres in my previous tests.

Thankyou for the simple & common sense method (something that usually evades me) that is certainly what I will do, not having lifted the underseat trim and seen the access hatch it didn't spring to mind but I'm sure its the same as the Octavias were. It has a saddle tank but the fuel must balance between the two sides if the pick up is via the sender unit like the Octavias. I only have another 20 or so miles to go to find out. Is it catastrophic if you run the CR engine dry? I can only find generic warnings on the web for all modern diesels.

My goods trailer I made all those years ago at the lower end of the height range, what was in those days the standard 14" height, this photo is taken with the trailer level and you can see I have already fitted a raising block to the coupling just like the photos on the attached thread where FrenchTone has done exactly the same thing. I will have to make two more additional raising blocks but prefer to do that than fit a drop plate, not through legal concerns but because it will look naff. My other trailer, a mobile site hut has a variable height ring coupling drawbar hence the pin & ball coupling on the Yeti.

I think its possible that the towbar was made using a Greenline Yeti as a donor vehicle, they are much lower and the towball would probably be a reasonable height with the towbar fitted to one of them. There is also the possibility that my Yeti may have had raised suspension from new, I think it may have been a Forestry vehicle, I know the "Outdoor" model has higher ground clearance but mine looks particularly high. Unladen and on standard 215/60R16 tyres I have a measurement of 31" to the bottom lip of the rear wheel arch at the 12 'O' clock position and 30.5" on the front wheel arch, how does that compare to your Yetis?

A picture is worth a thousand words, compare my photo with Cap'nslogg's & look where the flange is located, his is hanging in free air and mine tucked up against the removable silver panel which not only had to be cut to clear the flange bracket side plates but i also had to drill clearance holes for the bolts, the nuts fit in with a squeeze but I have to wedge the plastic back, that said I really like the close fit and having the ball above shin height and it suits the aesthetics, I just have to raise my tow coupling a second time.

I dont know if it fits the rear pockets as I bought mine to fit to the Yeti, what I can say is that Superskoda and all the Ebay sellers are Chancers and rip off artists, it cost a whole lot less buying from TPS even before the small discount that I get, and no delivery charges. I often find this with obscure parts. Its a tiny bin and the bag has to be scrunched up underneath it because of the shallow door pocket depth, there is little usable volume and you have to squash stuff in there to displace the collapsed bag. Perhaps its better to correct this sort of behaviour rather than enable it? Although having a waste bin and educating regarding its use is a good thing.

No problem with your admitted laziness and I totally get that if a function is there that you would want to recode & use it. Are we talking about a parcel shelf or retractable luggage cover (roller blind thing)? and are these things now electrically operated? - No doubt with a canbus controller within, sounds like a step too far to me, how do you remove them for large loads if they are electrically operated? Seemingly its the tech & toys that sell new cars, it has the opposite effect on me.

I always like to run my tanks as low as I can before refilling, please dont try to debate the point, we are all different and I respect everyone elses choices. Its important for me to know how much capacity or how many mile/kms remain when the trip computer says O miles or to know how many miles I can get to a tank before running dry, it avoids the anxiety if you know as I did with my last 2 Skodas that there is actually 5 or 7 litres remaining equating to 70 miles (example) of cautious driving. On my MK1 Octavia I ran dry enough times when the fuel guage played up to know its reserve, on the MK2 with its PD engine I just ran it dry on the first tank with a 5l jerrycan in the boot. On my Yeti with its common rail engine I believe doing that is likely to do a lot of damage, and its for that reason thats its all the more important for me to know the actual reserve capacity to avoid ever actually running dry. My initial idea was to stop the vehicle at home as soon as possible after zero miles remaining on the trip meter, to disconnect the fuel feed hose from the fuel filter and to pump the tank dry using VCDS to activate the scavenge pump & then measure the volume of fuel removed. Is this feasible and have I missed something obvious like its the scavenge pump that breaks up when it runs dry or that it will overheat doing what i propose or that it will not prime again afterwards? Presumably removing the fuel line will be no different to changing the fuel filter, is there a procedure for priming/bleeding after doing this? Thanks in advance.

I have one ready to fit when I have the time, already repainted the grille, cost about €8 delivered from Ali-Express, it has the VAG part number & logo & I think is a genuine part inasmuch as it has come off the same injection mould as many of the parts used for VAG vehicles built in Asia come from the local suppliers. I have bought roof console spectacle holder storage boxes and the 3 piece moulded battery trays from Ali-Express, they all appear to be OE products and the huge cost of the tooling would not justify making injection moulds for such large or intricate low value pattern parts. https://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/0.html?spm=a2g0s.9042647.0.0.227d4c4dYkBwtB&orderId=8017887961665080&productId=4001292597933

I suspect that its incorrect use of terminology or perhaps the English use of final drive ratio always referring to the differential is not the same in other languages, also could be a translation error. I think they are talking about the compound gear ratio from the engine crankshaft to the gearbox output shaft, on a normal gearbox all forward gears will only have one gear pair to calculate the ratio although reverse will have two.

Should they be grease free for use with a stabiliser? I always grease mine and over the years have had to replace a couple of towballs and finally my cast trailer coupling.

I repeat, show me the law, not someones opinion that they are illegal. You do understand that an EU directive has to be enacted into law by a member state country for something to become illegal? Show me the law, if it exists in the UK I will search and see if it exists in France.