J.R.

A comms fault will not make the vehicle jerk when moving off. Please post the fault codes, you cannot ask if others have had the same issue if you do not describe it. I would not work through the fault codes methodically, if I saw comms faults and low terminal 30 voltages I would check and charge or replace the battery and expect most of them to be resolved (not return after deletion) leaving me with the one(s) to concentrate on.

You should start with the water temperature problem, that is far more serious and no matter how much of an upgraded oil cooler you fit, water at 120°c if it really is that hot is not going to cool your oil sufficiently. Oil is the primary coolant and the coolant system is rated higher than necessary to maintain a constant 90°c to have the capacity to cool the oil. Given your increased engine power and the conditions where you experienced overheating you should drive slower up these hills in a lower gear using partial throttle, the speeds an unmodified vehicle would achieve, secondly fit an uprated coolant radiator and then only when the coolant temperature is a constant 90°c should consider the oil cooler if the oil temp is above 125°c. How were the measurements taken? Did the vehicle lose coolant?

And would be far less than that if you were in a position to do the repairs and servicing yourself. The garage costs I read on this forum scare the heck out of me, more so by the fact they seem to be normalised and accepted by the majority. In the last week I have seen £2800 to replace a clutch slave cylinder, £1200 to flush and replace anti-freeze and this £1000 half price exhaust.

Never, the coolant is good until the day it leaks away from a leaking hose or radiator, my MK1 Octavia went to the scrapyard at 18 years old with 325000 mile on the original coolant and all cooling system components aside from one replacement temperature sensor, it was checked every year with a spectrometer and was as good as the day it left the factory. Although if losing your car for a day while mechanics pretend to be working on it for 6 hours and charging you £1200 floats your boat then fill your boots. Removing the Silkat teabag is a wise precaution.

My advice is to ask a question giving enough information for people to be able to give a response or try on a clairvoyant forum.

Then there is no chance of you using a second hand key.

I can confirm that having locked myself in the car switching on the ignition with the dumb key unlocks all doors.

Why do you want pre-owned key? There are Ebay sellers that for about £4 will provide you a key to open the door but which will not start the engine, all you need to do is send them a good side on photograph of the key blade, I use one when I go running and leave the car, I used to hide the keys but that attracts attention which is the opposite of what I want, I lock the keyring in the car with the dumb key and take that with me. "still making enquiries re a blind key just to open the door." - From inside? I don't know if having one would actually get you out of the car, I will try an experiment and let you know, it will go in the ignition and switch it on but I dont know 100% whether the ECU would allow you to unlock the doors. You could of course have a hole water jet drilled in the passenger window allowing you to put your arm out to put the key in the lock 🤣

Are you sure it is not the foglight illuminating? That function will also light them both when reverse gear is selected with the headlights on.

I suppose 1443kg is considered as light these days 4 door 5 seat family cars of my parents era weighed half of that. Sorry to hear of your experience and shocked to hear that the legendary Honda reliability and customer service has dropped to that level, I really wonder whether manufacturers have been pushed into the current direction of vehicle development because of Government regulations and climate change targets and would they have made the choice themselves at the cost of their previous reputation?

I would not want cables carrying 105 amps draped across my dashboard, that is the same current as a starter motor, I bet it comes with bell wire cable and a plug for the cigarette lighter 🤣 Your auxiliary battery would have to be fitted in the boot, the volt drop over that distance would mean that the cables to your heater would have to be larger than your existing battery & starter cables. What sort of battery size do you think you would need to crank your engine for 30 minutes or even 5 minutes and what state would that leave it in?

What form is the energy transfer of this heater? Does it heat the coolant water like an immersion element? Is it a radiant or convector heater? Is it a fan assisted radiant heater? I doubt with any of these that you would feel much effect from 1.25kw within 5 minutes of driving off in a cold car. I have a 5kw diesel heater intended for heating lorry cabs overnight while the driver is sleeping, it is sufficient to heat my workshop but to get any warmth from it in the first 5 minutes you have to stand right in front of it and that is blown warm air.

Aircon pulley shear plate, alternator one way sprag clutch or dual mass flywheel would be my guesses.

You have had 2 weeks and you haven't even opened the bonnet to listen to and hopefully hear and see the noise source from closer but you want complete strangers to diagnose it from a 3 second mobile phone sound recording. You have not given your location so we do not know which side is the passenger side of your vehicle, whether the noise is coming from the crankshaft pulley or flywheel end of the engine. I suggest you open the bonnet and listen closer, while you are there you can check the fluid levels, take another sound recording from closer if you cannot deduce the source of the noise, you have real ears and eyes close to the source, or at least will have once you open the bonnet, far better than others listening to a recording played back from a computer or phone. If the passenger side is the crankshaft pulley end try switching off the aircon and see if the noise goes away or changes, if the flywheel end try depressing the clutch and engaging a gear for the same reason.

How many watts? There is a reason why most pre-heaters are either mains or carburant powered. The alternator on your older vehicle will definitely not be up to the job of keeping up with the discharge of the 12v heater, the reason I asked how many watts, if your normal journeys will be many miles after the engine coolant heater has taken over then maybe you will get away with your alternator. So I should ask as well as how many watts will the heater be what is the output of your alternator?

If you topped it up because it had used some oil (cant understand your reference to faulty level sensor) then having 1/4 litre or even 1/2 litre too much is no real problem as the level will fall in time anyway, if it never used any oil at all and you are a long way from the next oil change then I would drain some off.

So to round off this topic with the conclusion. I was having a very senior moment, I had not programmed out the DRLs which was some relief that I had not forgotten doing so, they were in fact still working, the other night as I switched off the lights and ignition I thought I saw some illumination from them but try as I might I could not repeat it, tried restarting, reversing driving forwards, switching off again, - nothing I should add that of course I cannot see them while I am driving and I only notice them when parking at night after turning the headights off, tonight I saw they were definitely working but once again when I tried again there was nothing, I even got out to check. Eventually I found out something I had been aware of in the past the bloomin things turn off when you apply the handbrake! 🙄 so unless you park with the handbrake off and get out to check you will not see them. In the past I had noticed it when parking in front of a reflective shop window so was aware of it. What now has me scratching my head is the other night on a straight main road with no other traffic I turned the switch down to sidelights and could see a tiny glimmer but when I switched it right off there was nothing and the DRLs should have been a lot brighter, I concluded that they did not work at night and the subsequent testing at home made me decide they were not working at all, that still remains a mystery and I will test again, my vehicle does not know if it is day or night, it does not have the light sensor.

My knowledge such as it is is mainly on petrol engines from having pulled them apart & tikered with them from the age of 12, later on from building race engines and developing an engine management system. Diesels I had zero practical experience of but I knew they had the same 4 stroke cycle, the only difference being the fuelling, ignition or lack thereof and higher compression. Even through driving nothing but diesels from 2000 onwards I gained zero experience because the early VAG diesels were so reliable and simple, nothing broke down so I learned nothing, I did not even know how to bleed the injectors after running out of fuel. All my learning has been playing catch up since buying a MK2 Octavia 4 years ago and the Yeti 3 years ago and most of that from this forum.

Yes it all makes sense now, looking at the photos and the angle at which the loom goes into the body panel I would say downwards towards trim panel 1. You could confirm this by looking and wiggling the loom now you have unclipped the bellows/gaiter Looking at the length of the loom on the new tailgate I would say the connector is behind panel 1 as it is not long enough to reach to panel 3, you may find that you have to release or remove trim panel 3 to remove panel 1, I cant see which one overlaps the other.

Your translation of the request for help does not make any sense, the first part was fine. This is unintelligible

Poor people, they sound like they are in desperate need of the wisdom someone like you who can read their minds.

What auxiliary electric heater? A 12 volt one? Is your vehicle equipped with one?

When ECU controlled injection, timing, 3d mapping etc took off on petrol engines I fully expected that the throttle butterfly would soon be a thing of the past as it is bad for airflow and volumetric efficiency but it has never come to pass, there must be a good explanation but I don't know what it is.

Learning is the great thing about this forum! At its most basic, because like a petrol engine all the modern added emissions stuff is superfluous to the basic function, a diesel engine has an open intake & hence no vacuum, engine speed and power is controlled by the amount of fuel injected. Throttling should not be thought to be accelerating, it literally means to choke or restrict like strangling someone, on a modern diesel it is used to create some vacuum to suck through EGR gases and also to stop shudder on shut down, on a petrol engine it is used to modulate the airflow to control engine speed, the mixture is taken care of by the fuel injection. Additionally the throttle body on a diesel engine will prevent an engine from runaway if the turbo blows and it starts running on its lubricating oil. The term wide open throttle actually means no throttling!

Doesn't anybody wear gloves these days if their hands feel cold? I can recall the days when they sold things like "Car Coats", superfluous after 5 minutes of swinging the starting handle!